GSSL HELP THREAD!!!

[W DeMarco]

[quote author="Greg"]Tubejay:

My toroid is actually an Avel from Parts Express, but yours will do just fine. Here's what you need to do to wire it.

On the primaries:
Tie yellow and red together and that goes to your common (not GND).
Tie black and violet and that goes to the hot (115VAC/120VAC).

On the secondaries:
Tie red and brown together...
Then measure between green and blue and you should have approximately 30VAC.

When you go to connect to the Main PCB, the red/brown (which are connected together), go to the middle point of the three. Connect green to the outside and blue to the one on the inner part of the board.

Basically we're connecting the primaries is parallel and the secondaries in series.

Let me know if anything is unclear.[/quote]

Just wondering what is actually happening when you tie different leads together. Could you explain that. I used the same transformer so this post helpful to me.

Love the forum, my addiction has begun!


Will

 

[Greg]

Take a look at the datasheet for the toroid and it will make more sense. The primaries can wired in series or parallel. IIRC, series is for 240VAC and parallel is for 120VAC. Similar thing on the secondaries... they can be wired in series or parallel. In series, double the voltage and half the currect. In parallel, you get twice the current. I think that's basically it.

 

[khstudio]

I'm down to my last few components to order & need help.

I'm using this build as a reference:
http://groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=12612&sid=2ecf3d6f09012820eb9bfe67fa05769c

Not only does it look cool but seems to be laid out very well with the addition of the side chain. As you can see there's not much room for large Power & Bypass switches.

In the pics he uses some sort of mini toggle... but what type & does anyone know where to find them. I'm really confussed about:

Power switch:
# of poles = ?
# of throws = ?

Bypass switch:
# of poles = ?
# of throws = ?

The parts list I'm using is Greg Steins & it recommends 4x3 for both :?
WHY 4x3...are that many polls or throws needed & for what?

Thanks, Kevin

 

[gyraf]

- Only two poles needed.

- The Lorlin type signal wsitches can be "programmed" to reduced number of steps - do a search here.

- Use a REAL mains switch for power, not the flimsy signal switch that is used on the pcb. Dosen't matter if it's one- or two-pole. Lorlin makes a good rotary power switch, available from RS.

Jakob E.

 

[khstudio]

Gyraf,
Thanks man:thumb:

There's not much room on the front with the added sidechain & I thought that one was laid out well. Wouldn't a rotory be too big?

Also,
I'm not new to DIY & component types but I am to PCB's & the SSL.
What types of caps were used in the original? I've heard & know the difference of Poly & Metalized Poly but once again...not in this unit. Does either type end up on top (sonically) & which do you (or anyone) prefer in your the clone?

 

[khstudio]

BTW, I wanted to use LEDs under the swithes like he did. Does that affect the amount of polls needed? How should I hook up the different switches? (includine the LED's)

I'm so exited to get this thing done & start using it in my studio.
:grin:

 

[jordanosaur]

Hi all -

I'm new to the forum, and I have just received most of my components I orderes using Greg's parts list (thanks Greg!). My only concern is the .1uF polyester caps (digikey part# P4593-ND). Not only do they look different than the caps used in the pics posted on the forum, but the size of these is too big for the layout on the PCB. I double checked the parts numbers on the BOM and my digikey order, and everything seems to be correct. Is there a revised part number you guys are using for the same cap. in a more compact package?

Here's a semi-crappy picture of the caps I received:

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e158/jordanosaur/Jordanspictures001.jpg

I tried to search for this topic and could not find anything, so I kind of assuming I have the wrong caps. Any help or advice would be much appreciated!

Thanks everyone

Jordan

 

[Greg]

hi Jordan and welcome to the Lab.

Those are polyesters... I think many people used metalized polyesters (rectangular looking). I've used those Panasonics before, and they'll work just great. Just bend them a little if need be. Happystuffing.

 

[khstudio]

Besides the other stuff I need help with...

What should the fuse be?
.315ma Slo-Blo?

 

[toffifee]

[quote author="khstudio"]BTW, I wanted to use LEDs under the swithes like he did. Does that affect the amount of polls needed? How should I hook up the different switches? (includine the LED's)

I'm so exited to get this thing done & start using it in my studio.
:grin:[/quote]

Hello Kevin!
You are talking about the unit I made, so I can answer this:
Yes, to switch the Bypass-LED I used a 3-Pole. You can feed this LED (via the third pole of the switch and an additional resistor) from the same point of the PCB from which the power LED is fed.
The power LED is fed directly (the resistor for this LED is already on the PCB) from this point, so it will shine when the whole unit is switched on. So no need to have more poles on the mains-switch.
You don´t need a rotary-switch as mains-switch, but you could, if you wanted. IF you wanted to use a rotary for mains, THEN make sure you don´t use the standard lorlin for that - they are not rated for mains. That is (if I understood right) what Jakob also wanted to point out.
Happy DIY :guinness:
Toff

 

[khstudio]

All good stuff. Thanks again.

Bear with me I'm almost there...
could you send me the pdf you were talking about?

or

Help me with the other questions I had on the previous posts.

 

[Nadege]

Hi everybody

I've build a SSl compressor using the chef's PCB and Kev's part list.

But now I've got some problem with it. The unit doesn't work...

When I powered the unit, all seem OK, no smoke, no special smell, the power on LED is working and the tension (+12/-12; +15/-15) are OK

When I pass audio thru the unit, all is alright, the sound isn't distorded and I haven't any hum.

But, the control aren't active, the bypass switch, the ratio, attack, release and threshold pot doesn't change anything, and the meter doesn't show anything at all.

The Make-up knob is working, the volume change but only on the rigth channel !!!! nothing change on the left one....

I've checked the PCB but havn't found any shortcut...

Do you have any idea of what's happening???

Thanks

 

[nrgrecording]

Nadege,
maybe there is a problem with the input/output connections?
Thats what happened to me in the beginning.

Balanced input is: + - GND - + Output is: - + GND + -

Or have you mixed the NE5532 and NE5534? Is the VCA correct (pin1) ?
You could try to connect "IN" and "OUT" at the vca with a small peace of wire (remove the vca first) to check if the input/output circuit is working. (i think pin 1 is IN and pin 8 is OUT [take a look at the datasheet first])

Good luck.

Frank.

 

[Nadege]

I've checked my connection and all seems alrigth, for the link between the control PCB and the main PCB and the IN/OUT connections.

All my IC are the good one and in the rigth place and in the rigth orientation.

Don't know what's going on...

I'll made some measure tonigth.. :evil:

 

[Greg]

Just for clarity, did you check continuity between the main PCB and control PCB? or just visually inspected it?

 

[Nadege]

I checked the continuity using my "multi meter" in the continuity mode.

 

[peeceebee]

I just completed my gssl, and there is a problem somewhere in the sidechain.

The unit passes signal, and the makeup gain switches in with the bypass. BUT nothing else is active, no meter, gain reduction, etc.

When I feed a 1k 0db signal into the unit, it shows up on pin 7 of the tl074, so it's getting at least that far through the sidechain vca- but somewhere past that in the sidechain circuit there's a problem-

MY problem is that I don't understand what the voltages should look like at each stage of the sidechain, under various control configurations, so I don't know how to troubleshoot it with a scope- I don't really understand what the circuit is supposed to do-
Specifically, for a given ac voltage output from the sidechain vca, what should the voltages/waveforms look like at the output of each stage of the tl074?

Has anyone done a table of what sample voltages should look like at various points of the (sidechain) circuit under different conditions?

Many thanks for any help-

 

[peeceebee]

As an addendum to the previous post, what should the threshold voltage feed look like further "downstream" in the circuit as it's varied, at pin 6 and/or pin 7 of the tl072 and other places for example?

An inactive threshold would account for my symptoms-

It doesn't seem to be doing a whole lot on pin 6(?)

 

[Nadege]

Hi guys,

I've rewired the main PCB to the control PCB, checked all the resistor and cap value, redo some pretty ugly soldering point.

Before putting back all the IC to their socket I checked the tension all across the board and now everything is perfect except for the tension of the NE5534 of the DBX 202 emulation circuit.

Normaly the rigth tension for VCC+ and VCC- of the IC is +12v (pin 7) and -12v (pin 4) and now I've got +15v and -15v. Is there something wrong?

I really don't know if it's Ok or if I'll have to check something else before putting the chip back to place... It's my first DIY project and I'm not really good...

Thanks guys for your advice.

 

[gyraf]

Normaly the rigth tension for VCC+ and VCC- of the IC is +12v (pin 7) and -12v (pin 4) and now I've got +15v and -15v. Is there something wrong?

..Try tracing the copper traces from those pins to the regulators in the powersupply..

Jakob E.