GSSL SuperSC board

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I think sending only 1khz on single channel first, check the TL and TM  compresses the same ammount as the rest of the ssc .. (except ext in of course..)
Then next channel... And u r done

(i check on computer input and with a real precise analizer to really have an accurate reading)
 
mrcase said:
How do you calibrate the TL /TM settings if you are using 2 SSC with switchable Turbo? Since my meter shows only "mono" gainreduction how am I supposed to do this properly? Both boards are always in the circuit (wired like explained in the Expat manual)
Maybe its a language thing, but description as in #377 shouldn't leave much questions if you have a multimeter, set for reading AC voltage. Feed GSSL with exactly 1kHz signal at whatever level and adjust trimmers for same level out at the corresponding rotary switch settings for TM and TL.
//edit: just running some numbers, for TM-mode, Rfb will be 10K903 = 6K8 fixed+trimmer set for 4K103; for TL-mode, Rfb will be 3K929 = 3K3 fixed+trimmer set for 629R with all other parts perfect. //
For two SCF boards you do this trimming for each SCF board.
This is still audio before it gets rectified and timed, so why bother with GR metering, ratio, threshold, release and attack for a ballpark figure, if you can have it easier exactly. YMMV.
 
Hi there

I'm busy  finishing my GSSL I use a turbo pcb from expat and 2 SSC from Barcelyon the SSC board has 8 settings so you need a 2P8T to switch bove boards...

Does anybody now where  I can order a 2P8T ?
I've searched the net but it seems difficult to find....

2P6T is easyer to find but then I have to skip 2 settings....
 
Hey,

If I don't want to use the backlit relay switches and just use a normal toggle switch do I still have to bother using the relay/diodes section of the SSC board?

If not, then how should the wiring be changed?

thanks.
 
hugh1097 said:
Hey,

If I don't want to use the backlit relay switches and just use a normal toggle switch do I still have to bother using the relay/diodes section of the SSC board?

If not, then how should the wiring be changed?

thanks.

i think u just stuff the filter/thrust part of the pcb and forget about the switch parts... (u will have to connect the bypass as in the GSSL normal procedure.. linking some points on ctrl pcb and iirc a ground connection from switch too for removing distortion when compression is "off"

 
"(u will have to connect the bypass as in the GSSL normal procedure.. linking some points on ctrl pcb and iirc a ground connection from switch too for removing distortion when compression is "off""

Can anybody tell me what this means? I'm getting distortion in the off position
 
Hi guys,

First of all I wanna say that I know almost nothing about electronics.I have a question dictated by the fact that the faceplate of the GSSL I'm purchasing right now has no room left for a rotary switch like the one presented here
http://picasaweb.google.com/barclaycon/GSSLSuperSidechainPCB#5185516908667730050
So I was wondering if it's possible to replace the rotary switch with a lever multi position switch.I would like to have only the OFF,130 and 200 position.
Can we just let the rest of the options unsoldered?Does it work?

Thanks
 
lesly_music said:
First of all I wanna say that I know almost nothing about electronics.I have a question dictated by the fact that the faceplate of the GSSL I'm purchasing right now has no room left for a rotary switch like the one presented here
http://picasaweb.google.com/barclaycon/GSSLSuperSidechainPCB#5185516908667730050
So I was wondering if it's possible to replace the rotary switch with a lever multi position switch.I would like to have only the OFF,130 and 200 position.
Can we just let the rest of the options unsoldered?Does it work?
Welcome,

sure, the SSC-board wouldn't make much sense with 95% of parts not fitted, but your request would look something like this. I'd solder both caps to the toggleswitch and connect it to shown positions on pcb.

In pos.'Off' the 68nF cap is shorted out,
in pos.'130Hz' the 33nF cap is switched in parallel to the 68nF cap, giving 101nF on paper,
in center pos.'200Hz' only the 68nF cap remains in circuit, further going to the 12K resistor.
-3dB HPF is set by [1/(2PI*R*C)] with R=12000 in ohm and C in Farad, IE 68nF=0.000000068=68E-9

good luck
Harpo
 
Thanks a lot Harpo

So you recommend a simplified circuit that could get me to the point.I must admit that I didn't thought is so simple even if I don't understand your technical explanation 100%.But I'm sure my friend (tech guy) could realize this schematics.
To be sure I understood.
Solder the caps on the toggle switch the way you explained in the drawing.
Both "off" and "sw pole" are on the super sidechain pcb,right?I still need a SSC board.
I don't see in the drawing the 12k resistor after the 68nF cap.
Then the connections between the ssc board and gssl board are like this?
http://picasaweb.google.com/barclaycon/GSSLSuperSidechainPCB#slideshow/5185516904372762722

Thanks again
Gelu

 
lesly_music said:
Solder the caps on the toggle switch the way you explained in the drawing.
Both "off" and "sw pole" are on the super sidechain pcb,right?I still need a SSC board.
I don't see in the drawing the 12k resistor after the 68nF cap.
Remaining (and still oversized) total pcb could look like this, if you -for whatever reason- want to use this SuperSCF-board (a piece of perfboard will do as well for parts required). Connect caps and switch as shown in previous schematic between the red markings.
The 12K resistor is on pcb between 'SW pole' and opamps inverting input. In the original schematic there is the now substituted rotary switch in between.
The left side marked resistor leg is the same spot as 'Off', just without the pcb trace in between.
For your request (HFP at 130Hz, 200Hz or filter bypassed, no external key in) only one single opamp stage is needed, but using this pcb snipplet for a dual opamp footprint, just fit the additional resistors for a summing buffer in front. Doesn't hurt and these 3 resistors aren't that expensive.
Connection to GSSL as shown in your link.
 
Hi and thank you again Harpo
Now I'm completely in  the dark here.
Anyway I really like the first option as is much easier to accomplish.I guess that with a little help from you my friends I could really do it by myself.
First of all is this switch ok for this mod?
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=70192215#tab=specs
How do I connect this module(caps soldered to toggle switch/I still don't figure out where to solder the 12k resistor after the 68nF cap) to the gssl pcb?I still don't get it,as I no longer have the scc board with that 6 way connector.What should I solder and where?I now only have the lead to the sw pole and the one who leads to off point(both on the ssc board from your first shematics).If this board is no longer used what should I do with those 2 "leads"?
Thank you and sorry for my lack knowledge.

 
lesly_music said:
Anyway I really like the first option as is much easier to accomplish.
ummm. The 'first option' is substituting the rotary switch at the SSCF-board from your request. There are still some other parts needed...
First of all is this switch ok for this mod?
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=70192215#tab=specs
That switch has momentary (on) positions.
If you don't want to constantly push this switch to an 'on' position but get your hands free, you might prefer a latching switch instead. Using the summing buffer on pcb in front, something like this single pole toggle. http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=70192060
How do I connect this module(caps soldered to toggle switch/I still don't figure out where to solder the 12k resistor after the 68nF cap) to the gssl pcb?I still don't get it,as I no longer have the scc board with that 6 way connector.
Maybe read my last post again and notice the pcb shown is the upper left corner remaining part of the SSCF-board, also showing all remaining parts to stuff. The 12K resistor in question is located right hand side at the opamp. The On-None-On toggle/caps substitution arrangement is connected to the shown spots.
If you don't want to cut the SSCF-board to size (keeping the needed remainder), you could use the pcb bottom left 'Off' instead of soldering on a resistor leg for a more comfortable solder lug. Electrical it is the same.
 
lesly_music said:
,as I no longer have the scc board
just rethinking, for your 1st option request without the SSCF board and additional opamps,
you would need a 2pole on-none-on toggle, 4x 10nF caps and 2x 6n8 caps and wire it like this
 
Hello,

I built 2 Super Sidechain boards to fit my turboed GSSL.
Holes in the PCBs for the diodes 1N4001 are too small for the legs and I don't have a drill now to enlarge them.

Can I use 1N4148 with thinner legs instead of 1N4001?

thanks

Damien
 
Hi Damien,

"Can I use 1N4148 with thinner legs instead of 1N4001?"

Short answer = no.

1N4148's are small signal diodes.
1N4001 are rectifiers or switching diodes that can tolerate high currents, hence the fat legs.
 
damien said:
Holes in the PCBs for the diodes 1N4001 are too small for the legs and I don't have a drill now to enlarge them.
a pcb has a backside ...

Can I use 1N4148 with thinner legs instead of 1N4001?
1N4148 flyback diode should be ok with suggested type of relais (24V/2k88 coil resistance = 8.3mA) and is fast enough to protect from counter-EMF
or as long as the diodes reverse voltage (100V) and forward current (200mA) rating is at least the relais coil current and voltage.
 
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