> Why do people say that a HiFi tranformer will sound wimpy for a guitaramp?
Because they are mixed up.
Good Hi-Fi iron can be "too clean" for tone production (as opposed to tone REproduction). Naked guitar strings sound thin. Bent bass-waves makes the sound richer.
Also, and more important: musicians have to move around a lot to make even a little money. For most musicians, cost and weight are VERY important. An undersized bent-bass transformer can play the gig just as well, with less strain on arm and wallet.
> Old Sunn guitar amps used Dynaco hi-fi output transformers
Yes, but pumping over 100 watts in iron that Dyna called "60 Watts". That's about the right derating. If iron is barely-clean at 10 Watts at 20Hz, and 60 Watts at 50Hz, then it will be barely-clean (not perfectly clean) at 100-120 Watts at 75Hz.
The (early) Sunns are very powerful, can be boomy for some styles and speakers, don't get the soft funky overload of cheaper/lighter amps. The Sunns are king of some work and beasts for other work.
My Traynor YBA-2 was rated 24W, makes 18W midrange at what I call "undistorted" (don't look badly bent on 'scope), but with a puny OT that I would not call 8W in good hi-fi duty. It is a great guitar amp, and an "excellent value for the money" bass amp. It does not pass the bottom octave of bass guitar, and even nicks the bottom notes of guitar, but the bending is "toneful" not harsh.
> I use 100W guitar transformers for 25W Hi-Fi
Sure. If it passes 100W at 82Hz acceptably, it'll pass 25 Watts at 41Hz just about the same. And on full-range music (unlike solo instrument amp), you just don't get FULL power at the lowest frequency, or not often enough to matter. Anyway typical speakers crap-out before decent iron. I do have a pipe-organ track with a brick on the 32Hz pipe for a full 27 seconds, and 32Hz sandy-state amps; but no speaker which will reproduce what I heard in the room. (Interestingly, my car speakers almost do justice, but only with the windows rolled up tight.)
Use Hi-Fi iron if you wish. If the cost and weight makes you gasp, use hi-fi iron rated much less than your tubes. Budget push-pull hi-fi iron should sound fine with guitar at twice the hi-fi rating. Great p-p hi-fi iron might handle 4X the rated hi-fi power, though I'd be a bit concerned about the B+ (and winding-core voltage stress) being about twice the value the designer assumed.
Single-ended iron tends to be a bit of a compromise in any case. But all SE amps end up being a balance between heat, cost, weight, cost, bass, cost, and output. And some really great gitar licks have been played on under-ironed and under-tubed SE practice amps.
> get the SE 6L6 / One Electron combo
That's sure over-weight and over-budget!
Hammond 125ESE should be more than ample for 6L6 and guitar at 8 Watts. I think you save 8 pounds and $50. 125ESE and 6550 will "do" 16 Watts, though the lowest guitar notes will be strongly iron-flavored. I'm dreaming of a One Electron SE with a 813 for just about 37 Watts SE, but it will make a Fender Twin feel like a lightweight.
> early silverfaced Fender twin and super reverbs used Ultra-linear output transformers
I thought it was some of the later, bigger, Fenders. But whatever, yes, UL has been done.
I don't think any UL guitar amp became a Real Classic. They are very clean up to a point, and then distort. Not quite as abruptly as a transistor amp, but the sand amp will be a lot lighter, even at the excessive power levels some of the later Fender UL amps were doing (160 Watts from one pair of bottles). Some modern techs un-do the UL connections to go back to a more "raw" pentode sound.
> It's bass heavy as is
Be sure it isn't just shy on treble. Most guitar wants everything over 2KHz about 6dB higher than everything below 1KHz. If you don't have that top-boost, it's dull.
> every note you play goes into outer space
Send more Chuck Berry!