Help! Otari MX 80 Remote Control Doesn't Work

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Thanks Pucho. I needed to hear that. I was really, really, really bummed out.

That web site is pretty cool. They even have a video on how to fix through holes. I'll let you know how I make out.

I have an MTR-12 four track that I've been using to record heavy rock guitars; I send the recording to the DAW for editing and final mix. Maybe I can send a two bus of drums from the DAW to it and back again to see if I can a more classic rock sound until the MX-80 is on it's feet.

For me personnally, there's just something about tape and tape compression that just works in getting that rock sound, especially for drums and guitar. A lot of people tell me it's all in my head; but, I swear it's just more pleasing to my ears.

Anyhow, thanks again. Man, I'm praying this MX-80 isn't another 3 month project from hell.

Regards,

Steve
 
Man I feel for ya Steve. I agree that 2 inch is better for my uses. I always found it to be easier as well. Sounds good right off the tape, No monkeying around with Plugins.
 
I called Best this morning. I'm actually going to send the board out to them for the repair. I hope I don't get drilled on the price.

You live and learn, I guess. I just wish I didn't have to learn the hard way so often. I know it'll be worth it in the end.

And, I agree, tape is easier for me too (regardless of the maintenance). Digital has many benefits, but I think the power of my mixes diminishes when I track solely to digital. And I have RME converters, a Big Ben and DP, so it's not like my hardware and/or software is weak.

I'm always amazed at what comes back through the console with tape. It brings a big, fat smile to my face! New Tape is not cheap, and with used tape, it's hit or miss (usually miss). But, the price of admission is worth it, in my opinion (maintenance, tape and all).
 
Not to change the nature of our conversation to much, but I will. I have my best luck out of my PT rig to the console for summing processing and balance verb ... Than I blast it back stereo to a PT track. Thats when Im in the digi world. I'm sure you'll make a great product, tape or not.

Im glad that theres more of us with mx-80's here. I did'nt even think about brigning tech issues with mine to the table here. I'm wondering if I should re-cap my PSU, although wiith steves problems dealing with welded caps I might be best no even trying. I'll let you guys make the call:

MX-80 has intermittent problems almost like Steves. I find that letting her cool down is helpful. Does make me real nervous though.

Is this a beast to be messing with. Should I begin a re-cap and if so, what major sections would benifit the most. i.e. PSU, Audio, control?
 
Yeah, they used that glue. Though it's still somewhat of a mystery to me why they glued them, and why they used so much (it's all around the base of each cap). Maybe as a safeguard during freight. I don't know. Heating it definitely helps in the removal process.

W.D., I'm all about DIY; but, after this fiasco, I would highly recommed sending your psu board out to someone reliable to change the caps. I think I'm gonna have Best not only fix the board, but also install the caps I get from digikey (they said no problem using someone else's caps).

I don't see a reason why you shouldn't recap the audio boards yourself. I recapped the MTR-12 audio boards, and had no problems. They, like the MX-80 boards, are modular. The PSU board is somewhat of a different animal, given the large can-type filter caps. Just take your time, and use a good desoldering tool/station. No big deal. I think the PSU had it's own challenges because of the freakin' glue. It made "feeling" the cap release virtually impossible. You have to completely remove the solder from the leads before attempting to pull the cap. Otherwise, see above.

I'm sure there are plenty of guys out there who are better skilled than me and have better resources to do the job. You may be one of them. If in doubt, I would recommend you send it off to someone you know (1) has the skills/resources to do the job perfectly or (2) has the ability to reproduce the board if they destroy it. I think it's money in the bank.

Again, live and learn. Unfortunately, it was my turn to learn first hand instead of from the hands of some other unfortunate soul.

Steve
 
Whoa! Just got a quote to repair the board. $550. Major drag. The through holes are barrel leads, and apparently all 20 have to be repaired.

Any thoughts? Does anyone know where I could (as unlikely as it may be) possibly get another board?

Man, this just plain hurts.
 
Yeah, no go at Blevins. They don't have a lot of MX-80 parts anymore (nobody does at this point). I'm going to keep looking. And I'm going to try another repair service. We'll see. Thanks

Steve
 
Well! Good news!

I bought a used board on ebay; but, even better, found an electrical engineer who is masterful at audio hardware repair (among other things).

His name is Soren Wittrup and his company is CS Electronics (www.cselectronics.net). He's out of Chicago and has worked with a lot of big named guys. He is highly regarded, very helpful and doesn't try to rip you off.

I'll keep the link alive once I get everything back together. But just wanted to spread the good word. And want to say thanks again to all you guys for your recommendations and support.

Maybe there is a silver lining....

Regards,

Steve
 
Well, I sent the power supply to Soren to be recapped, along with the remote and communications board for inspection. I got it back, hooked it up. Works perfectly!

Soren is the man!

I should give him a plug because (A) he fixed everything in one shot, (B) his craftsmanship was perfect (no hacking), (C) his price for the repairs was reasonable and (D) he turned it around in record time.

I do owe you guys a debt of gratatude also. I appeciate all of your replies and direction. It really helped a great deal.

Now! Back to recording without all that harsh, digital bull$h!t fighting me.....
 
I had a bunch of stuff done, including fixing the eprom on my remote. You should call him. I'm thinking it's right around $200.

But! Bear in mind, he doesn't just recap a double sided board (that, you may not want to tackle yourself, especially with all of the glue Otari uses). He bench tests the whole power supply back panel. You would send him the board along with the entire back panel, heat sinks and all. He went through the whole PSU, checked EVERYTHING, bench tested, etc.

All I can say is that it came back to me plug and play.

Give him a call. Very nice guy.

Regards,

Steve
 
Hey, couple of ebay auctions you may want to get in on.

1: http://cgi.ebay.com/Otari-Service-and-Operating-Manuals-on-CD_W0QQitemZ140117590281QQihZ004QQcategoryZ113484QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem


2: http://cgi.ebay.com/Otari-MX-80-24-16-32-2-Track-Audio-Card-Module-MX80_W0QQitemZ320165228732QQihZ011QQcategoryZ15199QQcmdZViewItem

the 2nd one is for spare audio cards. 4 left, I bought 1. Only $34.99 USD with shipping!
 
Hey, thanks for the tips.

I actually bought a couple of channels. Mine had MUSE BP caps. I'm always on the lookout for parts.

You know, these decks get middle of the road press. I don't get it. I'm very pleased with the sound of mine. I suppose you can always do better, but how much? The difference between lower end and high-end AD/DA converters can be huge...really huge. Is there that much of a difference between and Otari and, say, a Studer or Ampex?
 
There are differences check out this page http://www.endino.com/graphs/

I just got a Dolby SR rack which should make it sound even better. 16 track headstack would be another option as well.
 
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