MidnightArrakis
Well-known member
I have a "misunderstanding/question" about the DC-voltage input coming into this circuit of yours. Here is an image of the DC-in of your original schematic:
Up at the top, you can see both a "9V" and a "+9V" symbols. So, I am assuming that the "9V" is the main DC-input from a wall-wart or something. But, does it also connect to the connection line going from R4 and C2 and the "+9V" symbol? Or, does it - ONLY - connect to D7? And, if so.....where does the voltage go from there as D7 only connects directly to GND? In addition, technically..... the anode of D7 won't connect to the rest of the circuit because it has its own NET NAME called "9VGND", whereas the rest of the circuit all has a NET NAME called "GND". So, within a CAD-system, the NET NAME called "9VGND" would be what is called a "Single Node Net" and would -- NOT -- be connected to anything else in the circuit. Should "9VGND" be changed to "GND" as well?
Here is the same "input" section of your schematic, but it shows things differently:
Since there is no "+9V" symbol shown in this version, I can only assume that the "9V" symbol shown is the main DC-input voltage. If that is true, then shouldn't there be a "connection dot" shown on the connection line going from R14 to D7 to C10 and the "9V" DC-input symbol? That's the only scenario that makes sense to me!!! But, I am not a circuit designer, so maybe this is shown to be correct, anyhow. Let me know, OK?
It is probably a "good thing" that you are converting the "Thru-Hole" components over to "Surface-Mount" types because when I did a check of the - IRF740 - device on Digi-Key, there was a message displayed mentioning that this part is now - OBSOLETE - and is no longer manufactured. Of course, that doesn't mean that you cannot still buy it from existing inventories, but the device itself has seen its "End Of Life" notice.
What is the difference between switching to D1 and D2 or D3 and D4 by the "Diode Clip" switch? It appears as though that both pairs of diodes are the same, so what is being differently switched? And, what types of diodes are they? 1N4148's? Also, how is that switch an "On/Off/On" switch when it is only switching between two poles or an "either/or" condition? That would be an "On/On" switch, wouldn't it? And, finally.....the "Diode Clip", "High Cut" and "Bright" switches do not have any "Reference Designators" shown within the schematic? Is there a reason for this?
I am assuming that SW2.1 and SW2.3 are a part of the same switch, right? Is there a SW2.2 somewhere that I am not seeing? And, the connection between SW2.3/C3 and SW2.1/A1 is a "BYPASS" setting, correct?
I am guessing that the potentiometer called "V-ADJ" is a trim-pot, right? And, it is used to fine-tune the voltage? Single-turn? Or, a 3-turn trim-pot?
It appears as though the Surface-Mount version of the "Thru-Hole" J201 FET (MMBFJ201) is back-ordered/non-inventoried/out-of-stock at all of the normal and usual electronics distributors, but I was able to find one distributor here in the U.S. who has 10,786-pieces in-stock in their warehouse. I just thought that you would like to know this tidbit of information.
Are you planning on building this circuit using the HAMMOND 1590BB enclosure as a "Stomp-Box"? Or, as a type of an external "Effects Box" device? The difference would determine what types of switches should be specified for the various functions.
Going back to the "Power Supply".....what do you have planned for the main "9VDC" input? A wall-wart? An external power supply or what? Would you consider operating this enclosure off of your "AC Mains" (85 - 305VAC) voltage if you knew of an AC/DC converter that could supply you with your 9VDC @ 5Watts that's about the size of a large postage stamp and is only 20mm high? Would 12VDC be OK?
Would you want to have "F1" accessible for changing from -- OUTSIDE -- the enclosure? Or, would you prefer to remove the lid and change out the fuse from a PCB fuse-holder? Inquiring minds need to know!!!
Well.....that's enough for now.....
/
Up at the top, you can see both a "9V" and a "+9V" symbols. So, I am assuming that the "9V" is the main DC-input from a wall-wart or something. But, does it also connect to the connection line going from R4 and C2 and the "+9V" symbol? Or, does it - ONLY - connect to D7? And, if so.....where does the voltage go from there as D7 only connects directly to GND? In addition, technically..... the anode of D7 won't connect to the rest of the circuit because it has its own NET NAME called "9VGND", whereas the rest of the circuit all has a NET NAME called "GND". So, within a CAD-system, the NET NAME called "9VGND" would be what is called a "Single Node Net" and would -- NOT -- be connected to anything else in the circuit. Should "9VGND" be changed to "GND" as well?
Here is the same "input" section of your schematic, but it shows things differently:
Since there is no "+9V" symbol shown in this version, I can only assume that the "9V" symbol shown is the main DC-input voltage. If that is true, then shouldn't there be a "connection dot" shown on the connection line going from R14 to D7 to C10 and the "9V" DC-input symbol? That's the only scenario that makes sense to me!!! But, I am not a circuit designer, so maybe this is shown to be correct, anyhow. Let me know, OK?
It is probably a "good thing" that you are converting the "Thru-Hole" components over to "Surface-Mount" types because when I did a check of the - IRF740 - device on Digi-Key, there was a message displayed mentioning that this part is now - OBSOLETE - and is no longer manufactured. Of course, that doesn't mean that you cannot still buy it from existing inventories, but the device itself has seen its "End Of Life" notice.
What is the difference between switching to D1 and D2 or D3 and D4 by the "Diode Clip" switch? It appears as though that both pairs of diodes are the same, so what is being differently switched? And, what types of diodes are they? 1N4148's? Also, how is that switch an "On/Off/On" switch when it is only switching between two poles or an "either/or" condition? That would be an "On/On" switch, wouldn't it? And, finally.....the "Diode Clip", "High Cut" and "Bright" switches do not have any "Reference Designators" shown within the schematic? Is there a reason for this?
I am assuming that SW2.1 and SW2.3 are a part of the same switch, right? Is there a SW2.2 somewhere that I am not seeing? And, the connection between SW2.3/C3 and SW2.1/A1 is a "BYPASS" setting, correct?
I am guessing that the potentiometer called "V-ADJ" is a trim-pot, right? And, it is used to fine-tune the voltage? Single-turn? Or, a 3-turn trim-pot?
It appears as though the Surface-Mount version of the "Thru-Hole" J201 FET (MMBFJ201) is back-ordered/non-inventoried/out-of-stock at all of the normal and usual electronics distributors, but I was able to find one distributor here in the U.S. who has 10,786-pieces in-stock in their warehouse. I just thought that you would like to know this tidbit of information.
Are you planning on building this circuit using the HAMMOND 1590BB enclosure as a "Stomp-Box"? Or, as a type of an external "Effects Box" device? The difference would determine what types of switches should be specified for the various functions.
Going back to the "Power Supply".....what do you have planned for the main "9VDC" input? A wall-wart? An external power supply or what? Would you consider operating this enclosure off of your "AC Mains" (85 - 305VAC) voltage if you knew of an AC/DC converter that could supply you with your 9VDC @ 5Watts that's about the size of a large postage stamp and is only 20mm high? Would 12VDC be OK?
Would you want to have "F1" accessible for changing from -- OUTSIDE -- the enclosure? Or, would you prefer to remove the lid and change out the fuse from a PCB fuse-holder? Inquiring minds need to know!!!
Well.....that's enough for now.....
/
).
