I'm re-capping a Power one 24vdc supply from the 90s. The main "snap-in" filter cap looks like it's riveted or staked to the PCB, and I can't easily remove it. Has anyone seen anything like this before and if so, how did you get it out? (sorry for the poor quality phone pix)...
Is This Cap "Riveted" in?
- Thread starter echo zulu
- Start date
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I've never seen a capacitor literally riveted in, I have seen rivets in PCB to make robust attachments.
JR
JR
scott2000
Well-known member
May be glued underneath...scary I know...
NoisyIndividual
Well-known member
I somehow doubt the rivet is going through the body of the capacitor.
Maybe it is some kind of Via on steroids, since it is electrically connected to one of the Cap connections.
Or possibly a grounded standoff preventing the other component leads hitting the chassis?
Dunno, never seen anything like this.
Maybe it is some kind of Via on steroids, since it is electrically connected to one of the Cap connections.
Or possibly a grounded standoff preventing the other component leads hitting the chassis?
Dunno, never seen anything like this.
pucho812
Well-known member
Like others have said I doubt it has a Rivet going through it. As to what it it’s doing hard to say.
My memory about old stuff is fuzzy, but I may have seen very old capacitors with phenolic base plates using rivets. Of course the rivets were just used as solder connections, not mechanical attachment.
JR
JR
NoisyIndividual
Well-known member
Looks like the Nichicon has leaked, so just pry it off with a crowbar.
Philbo King
Well-known member
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- Aug 15, 2023
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It looks like the cap leads at the top of the photo are swaged (flattened by crushing). You might try crushing the cap body and cutting the leads from the top side once the cap is gone, and pushing the leads out of the bottom of the PCB from the top.
If the rivet remains, you'll probably need to carefully drill it out with an undersized bit.
If the rivet remains, you'll probably need to carefully drill it out with an undersized bit.
....Thanks for the input, everyone.
NoisyIndividual
Well-known member
The small trace running between the cap pads is corroded, you might want to check/fix that/run a jump wire from end to end.
NoisyIndividual
Well-known member
Ah, ok, I see that now.
Often leaking electrolytics will deposit their corrosive contents down their vias.
Often leaking electrolytics will deposit their corrosive contents down their vias.
electrolytic capacitors generally use rubber bungs that don't leak easily, but stressing capacitors with high ripple current and/or excessive heat can cause them to leak.
JR
NoisyIndividual
Well-known member
I have had to repair many a PCB where both sides and the essential vias have been corroded by a leaking through hole electrolytic.
Particularly main caps after Bridge rectifiers, where you have to then run wires from the bridge straight to the capacitors, bypassing the PCB completely.
Particularly main caps after Bridge rectifiers, where you have to then run wires from the bridge straight to the capacitors, bypassing the PCB completely.
SoundBlaster
Member
Rivets are placed in through holes on PCB's for heavy items such as capacitors (Sometimes transistors too). As mentioned, there may also be glue. My technique is heat one lead and try and hinge that lead out of the board while hot.
I didnt read through the ensuing comments completely ,
Looks simple to me ,
The PCB is riveted to provide extra support for the caps , not relying on the bond between the PCB base material and copper to bear the components weight , very good plan before the plated throughole PCB .
Id definately be using my Weller 100w gun to get those out , there just standard snap in , straighten up the legs with a pliers as best you can first , and if nessesary walk the component out ,side to side
Avoid over heating , alternate the irons heat , move that leg and repeat on the other until its out .
Looks simple to me ,
The PCB is riveted to provide extra support for the caps , not relying on the bond between the PCB base material and copper to bear the components weight , very good plan before the plated throughole PCB .
Id definately be using my Weller 100w gun to get those out , there just standard snap in , straighten up the legs with a pliers as best you can first , and if nessesary walk the component out ,side to side
Avoid over heating , alternate the irons heat , move that leg and repeat on the other until its out .
Sometimes rivets are used for ground test points although this looks like it’s on the plus side
That rivet is outside of the footprint of the capacitor so can’t be for anything other than either carrying a test point through to the other side of the board or to prevent the board delaminating?
Edit: maybe voltage adjust test point - looks like there’s another rivet by the other trimpot
Edit: maybe voltage adjust test point - looks like there’s another rivet by the other trimpot
