Kilopoise 'grease' for lubrication. Similar used in P&G faders...
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/lubricants/0822349/
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/lubricants/0822349/
jwhmca said:Picture 2
Hi Daniel, I have a 5315 and have had good results keeping the plastic knob tops on with “GE Silicone II Household Glue”.I have a Neve 5316 (w 31 channels of broadcast 33144b modules and even more 8 channel assignment aux switches) and have assignment, solo and mute switch struggles. If a replacement switch is created….please reach out to me.
I’d be in. There was a person named Jim Hickey who was making switches that fit my group switches with an alternate method but I have not heard back from him in a while. I believe my switches are the dialstat but have a smaller footprint ( metal frame holds them closer together). In any case everyones passion to find a solution here is very much appreciated!
i wonder if any of you have found a glue you like for the plastic caps that go a top the aluminum knobs. The heat that goes up through the knobs drys out the glue and I have a regular monthly dance I would love to avoid. My best to you all.
Daniel
Notable.com
Hi, it's been a while since you posted, I know. Can you please give details about this Relay project. I'm in trouble with Dialistats on my Neve 5114. On my desk switches and leds are powered with -15v. Will the relay you mentioned work or do I have to find another ? Any info, diagram, schematics, photos, videos, etc.We have a few thousand NEW Dialistat switches and thousands of latch pins..... But we also have a mini PCB that attaches to a relay for 4 poles or more. You had to think a little outside the box to do this. No Dialistat required....It works perfectly on our VRL and VX and this is not some cobbled together junk. I would only recommend using the relays in crucial parts the mech part that does the work can do the 2 pole on its own. For the first 2 poles is all you need for this to work as those switches don't normally have LED's... The parts to do the replacements for the 4 or more were always in front of most just nobody thought enough outside the box. I showed this to Musgrave and he about flipped out! Exact same pitch etc and the distance from PCB and switch height (sometimes a little slight pin bending to get them into the PCB). You have to do a little cutting down of the original R angle from Mill Max but no big deal. And attaching a wire or two. BUT THE CONFIDENCE THAT IT WILL ALWAYS FIRE IS KEY..... And also lowers the distortion exp on the pan switch....
So for every 2 poles extra the just add a relay the power at least on the V series is on the top two poles.
I am sure JAKOB could make a PCB and the pins for the PCB are Mill Max also.
We have a few thousand PCB's but are doing the rest of the desks little by little.
The Part Numbers for the right angle are 299-99-210-12-001800
relays are G6k-2P-DC12
The Momentary switches are TL2201OAYA
LATCHING ARE TL2201EEYA
We did every chip upgrade possible to our desks and they sound great. The only reason we didn't buy an 88R is that A.) its surface mount so there's issue one so screw repairing it easily. B.) SSL kind of was almost a decade ahead with the 9K and yet people still liked the 4K's. C.) When you open up the prints for an 88R there are many of the same from the VR. D.) There were chip upgrades but that was easily done. The switches were the hurdle. And the Burroughs meters you can use the drivers and get 101 segment LEDs....
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