KM84 DIY Body & PCB kit – CLOSED

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Sorry guys for the slight delay – finished packing everything last night, all goes out on Monday (guaranteed). Will provide tracking asap.

Thanks to everyone for your patience!
 
Banzai said:
Sorry guys for the slight delay – finished packing everything last night, all goes out on Monday (guaranteed). Will provide tracking asap.

Thanks to everyone for your patience!
Thanks for the info, and for all of the work.. Cheers!
 
Kits arrived today - looking great, very smart and great packaging! Now to investigate getting the bodies powdercoated locally...

Thanks for all your work on this gents!

Andy
 
TwentyTrees said:
Kits arrived today - looking great, very smart and great packaging! Now to investigate getting the bodies powdercoated locally...

Thanks for all your work on this gents!

Andy

Another easy option is to polish the brass. Could come out really well.
 
A note about the current kit:

The plastic spring connector is already the right size for the boards. No need to widen the slots – just push in PCB and secure with M2 screws.
 
I built 3 KM84's--2 with the Haufe Group Buy transformers.  When following the wiring diagram shown on Page 4 of the of the Haufe BV107 Group Buy thread, the microphones are Pin 3 = High; said another way, positive air pressure at the capsule yields a waveform that begins negative.  In my world, and the world of nearly all professional audio, this is not a good thing. 

This could easily be avoided by swapping the orientation of the white and blue wires on the output side.  I have to run out the door, but will try to elaborate when I get back. 

=======================================================

After talking to someone more knowledgable than me in interpreting the Haufe transformer diagram, I now 'get' that the 'positive pressure' side of the Haufe primary is the Black wire and the 'positive pressure' side of the secondary is the White wire.  So my note (above) is still a warning, but a warning not to interpret the transformer diagram the way I originally did. 
 
Kits arrived in Virginia, they look great!

Any tips  for painting/powder coating the body without screwing up the mesh behind the slots in the top?
 
I believe the mesh is easily removed. So do that. If the new bodies have the mesh soldered in you can just desolder it and then remove it.

Thanks!

Paul
 
Wiring for 3U transformer:

RED wire -> G
BROWN wire -> R
YELLOW wire -> B
ORANGE wire -> Y

Transformer board pads:

KM84-PCB-Transformer-pads.png



Stock 3U diagram:
s-l500.jpg
 
AMI%20T8.jpg


Leave enough extra grey wire to reverse the leads if the mic's polarity is reversed.
 
Anyone using the stock Cinemag 5722 (8 wires), just follow the markings on the board:

R - Red
G - Green
B - Blue
Y - Yellow

Cinemag 5722W (4 wires):

R - Red
G - Brown
B - Orange
Y - Yellow
 
When unpacking, your box should contain:

- mic bodies + capsules
- PCB's
- FET's and M2 screws
- plastic capsule pins + XLR connector
- transformers (if ordered)
 
Banzai said:
Anyone using the Cinemag 5722, just follow the markings on the board:

R - Red
G - Green
B - Blue
Y - Yellow

That is true if you're using the stock version of the CM5722, where you have to connect the center taps yourself.

But David from Cinemag offered me the internally hooked up version where the colors are vastly different. If I had read his description more carefully it would have saved me a lot of trouble.  Brown/Red is primary - Orange/Yellow is secondary and there are only four wires.

The letters on the board correspond to the following wire colours on the transformer:

G = Brown
R = Red
B = Orange
Y = Yellow

There are no green or blue wires on this version. Keep that in mind!

BTW: thanks Mike for the kit - it's a great sounding mic!
 

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