Lavry Gold MkII Schematic??? Anybody???
- Thread starter drpat
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s2udio
Well-known member
5000 grand to "repair".....jeeezzzz: '(
Wish I could charge that for a repair.
Schematic .......i doubt it !
If its dead what about a look at the PSU ? cant be that bad its only a switch moder!
Put a inside pic up and lets have a look!
Wish I could charge that for a repair.
Schematic .......i doubt it !
If its dead what about a look at the PSU ? cant be that bad its only a switch moder!
Put a inside pic up and lets have a look!
From the Owner's Manual:
"The MKIII is a redesign of the MKII, with a strong emphasis on heat reduction. The new converter modules are housed in metal enclosures with massive heat sinks. A new MKIII motherboard incorporates all of the previous MKII revisions and is powered by a new power supply, with better control over DC voltages and power dissipation. The clock circuitry is the same as the MKII. The software is very stable and left unchanged, therefore the features are all identical to a MKII. The benefits of reduced operating temperature are even lower distortions over the whole frequency range as well as increased flexibility in mounting and range of ambient operating temperatures."
In other words, look for something cooked. Check the PSU first as s2udio says.
"The MKIII is a redesign of the MKII, with a strong emphasis on heat reduction. The new converter modules are housed in metal enclosures with massive heat sinks. A new MKIII motherboard incorporates all of the previous MKII revisions and is powered by a new power supply, with better control over DC voltages and power dissipation. The clock circuitry is the same as the MKII. The software is very stable and left unchanged, therefore the features are all identical to a MKII. The benefits of reduced operating temperature are even lower distortions over the whole frequency range as well as increased flexibility in mounting and range of ambient operating temperatures."
In other words, look for something cooked. Check the PSU first as s2udio says.
Yep $5,000.00!!!! That's the right amount of zeros.
$2,200.00 dollars of that is to correct the MKII design flaws that has caused these units to overheat, and fail. They disguise this charge as a "MKIII upgrade" so they can charge their customers for it. They won't repair a unit without this "upgrade".
@S2udio... I'm not sure where your source for that information is, but I don't think Lavry uses switchers in the Gold's.
There's no obvious signs of overheating. The two ADC modules are potted, so I can't tell if they are scorched, or not. I haven't checked the power supply voltages yet, but that's why I need the schematics. I also checked esr on all of the EL caps, and they're all good.
$2,200.00 dollars of that is to correct the MKII design flaws that has caused these units to overheat, and fail. They disguise this charge as a "MKIII upgrade" so they can charge their customers for it. They won't repair a unit without this "upgrade".
@S2udio... I'm not sure where your source for that information is, but I don't think Lavry uses switchers in the Gold's.
There's no obvious signs of overheating. The two ADC modules are potted, so I can't tell if they are scorched, or not. I haven't checked the power supply voltages yet, but that's why I need the schematics. I also checked esr on all of the EL caps, and they're all good.
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radardoug
Well-known member
Hmm, sounds like they should pay you to fix their shonky design! Or throw it in the bin.
benqbasic
Well-known member
Hit them up about charging you to fix their design flaw.
benqbasic said:
I'm thinking that any company that charges $5,000.00 for any sort of repair, has probably already heard it a million times. I used to think that Avid's repair rates were insane @ $400.00 for a unit that was only 15 years old. This Lavry is less than half that age.
The overheating issue is well documented, and, judging from the propaganda in the owner's manual for the MKIII, Lavry has absolutely no shame in admitting that they sold all Lavry Gold MKII owners a substandard product for a stupid amount of money.
Are the orange blocks with fins at the right in the photo transformers or sealed DC supplies? Do they have a air flow path or are they enclosed without air flow? I can not tell from the picture.
If transformers can you get access to the terminals to check if they have an open wind(s)
Does it turn on at all?
If so can you scope the microcontroller(I am guessing there is a microcontroller) clock and data lines?
Do you have access to a thermal camera? Seek and Flir make more affordable ones, some attach to smartphones
Are there any pictures of a MK3 upgraded MK2 we can compare?
If transformers can you get access to the terminals to check if they have an open wind(s)
Does it turn on at all?
If so can you scope the microcontroller(I am guessing there is a microcontroller) clock and data lines?
Do you have access to a thermal camera? Seek and Flir make more affordable ones, some attach to smartphones
Are there any pictures of a MK3 upgraded MK2 we can compare?
Gus said:
I assumed that those orange blocks were transformers, but I may be wrong.
The unit does have 2 data out puts (one for each channel), but I'm an analogue guy and would have no idea what to do with them.
About the problems it's having:
- The unit turns on, meters work, LED display works and all buttons work
- software seems to be doing what it should
- nothing but static on the digital out except when using the built-in test tone generator
- the unit WILL transmit a reliable clock to another unit
pucho812
Well-known member
Sounds like a good one, bet you there is a dead chip or two and the built in tone generator bypassed said chip.
@GUS
The thermal camera sounds like a good idea. I don't own one, but may be able to find one that I can borrow.
Word on the street is the MKII to MKIII upgrade is just a swap-out of the old unit for a new unit. This is second hand information from what a friend told me about his friend's upgrade process. If this is the case, any upgraded MKII pictures would just be a MKIII unit, and I could not find any MKIII inside pics on the net.
The thermal camera sounds like a good idea. I don't own one, but may be able to find one that I can borrow.
Word on the street is the MKII to MKIII upgrade is just a swap-out of the old unit for a new unit. This is second hand information from what a friend told me about his friend's upgrade process. If this is the case, any upgraded MKII pictures would just be a MKIII unit, and I could not find any MKIII inside pics on the net.
If you get a good test tone out of the digital output but static otherwise as posted
this could be a number of things
I would check all the PCB solder connections, first by the parts with the most mass followed by the power supply regulators
You checked the ESR
The part(s) that fail might not be the ones that get hot with the cover off but get baked with time
Are there two microcontrollers one for the buttons, test tone, parts that work and one for the A/D section?
Can you read the chip numbers? The larger ones might be microcontrollers.
Are the DB modules in sockets? If so maybe you can mark them and remove one at a time leaving the other in and testing maybe one is loading down a common data buss or clock line.
Issue with this is we don't know the modules current draw and how much the supply voltages might rise with 1/2 the A/D converter loading could hurt other parts if the voltages rise.
this could be a number of things
I would check all the PCB solder connections, first by the parts with the most mass followed by the power supply regulators
You checked the ESR
The part(s) that fail might not be the ones that get hot with the cover off but get baked with time
Are there two microcontrollers one for the buttons, test tone, parts that work and one for the A/D section?
Can you read the chip numbers? The larger ones might be microcontrollers.
Are the DB modules in sockets? If so maybe you can mark them and remove one at a time leaving the other in and testing maybe one is loading down a common data buss or clock line.
Issue with this is we don't know the modules current draw and how much the supply voltages might rise with 1/2 the A/D converter loading could hurt other parts if the voltages rise.
I went over some of the solder joints with a magnifier. There are some suspect ones, and some big blobs in a couple of areas. It looks as if all of the machine soldered stuff is OK. The A/D modules and other things like the ceramics on the input jacks look to be hand soldered, so I plan on going over these again, just to be safe. There's also flux all over the board.
You'd think for the list price on these things, Lavry could afford to send their techs to soldering school.
You'd think for the list price on these things, Lavry could afford to send their techs to soldering school.
Gus said:
Without a schematic or block diagram I'm pretty lost, but I'm thinking since it's affecting both channels, that it's unlikely to be the big, proprietary Lavry D/A converter blocks (1 per channel). That's an analog mindset of troubleshooting though.
Gus said:
Not sure what chip does what. I'm planning on researching the list of chips that I posted to see if I can narrow it down to what does what.
Gus said:
The big encapsulated DB modules are soldered to the board.
I would maybe try the DSP56002FC66
24 bit digital signal processor
It has a 110 page datasheet http://cache.nxp.com/files/dsp/doc/inactive/DSP56002DS.pdf?fsrch=1&sr=1&pageNum=1
a PAL http://www.ti.com.cn/cn/lit/ds/symlink/tibpal16l8-20m.pdf
The one marked AD122 on the small board might be custom or programmed the number is most likely under the sticker. What do the wire off the board connect to? If the buttons, display etc. maybe this section is the working part.
If you do get it working I would work on how to cool the DSP chip if you use a fan you will have air currents and possibly cause the clock to drift. Maybe the trapped heat was used as a type of crystal oven. Maybe use a copper heatsink glued on with thermal epoxy.
24 bit digital signal processor
It has a 110 page datasheet http://cache.nxp.com/files/dsp/doc/inactive/DSP56002DS.pdf?fsrch=1&sr=1&pageNum=1
a PAL http://www.ti.com.cn/cn/lit/ds/symlink/tibpal16l8-20m.pdf
The one marked AD122 on the small board might be custom or programmed the number is most likely under the sticker. What do the wire off the board connect to? If the buttons, display etc. maybe this section is the working part.
If you do get it working I would work on how to cool the DSP chip if you use a fan you will have air currents and possibly cause the clock to drift. Maybe the trapped heat was used as a type of crystal oven. Maybe use a copper heatsink glued on with thermal epoxy.
Yep, unfortunately I'm suspect of that one too. I say "unfortunately" because it's the only SMD chip in the unit. I've never replaced an SMD device, and I certainly don't want this converter to be my practice unit.
What to do, what to do...
What to do, what to do...
Andy Peters
Well-known member
drpat said:
Good luck finding those. We (day job) used to use a whole bunch of those Motorola DSPs back when, and the whole line was EOLed a couple of years ago.
-a
Andy Peters
Well-known member
Gus said:
Without the binary design file used to burn the PAL, replacing the part won't help.
And TI is out of the PAL business. You might get lucky with Lattice.
-a
