Mackie ultramix schemo needed !

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helterbelter said:
Ah,well, the unit looks decently setup. Way better than the B-ringer for sure !

SMD opamp  replacement isn't that difficult, but I doubt it if it'll be worth the bucks that you'll spend on it. Maybe the caps are worth a replacement, can't see what's in it.

Better make sure that the fadermoves are the way you like it. (no zippernoise, etc.). If this is what you need, then decide if you're going to mod it, or not.
This exactly what I think  ;) !
The faders don't move on the ultrapilot so there's no noise there... This could be an improvement but it will become tricky ! Another improvement would be to make the level control in more than 127 values, but like moving faders it is a complete remake of the VCA control  and software :p ! I don't think I will go this way, not enough time, not enough energy...
Caps change can be an improvement but I have to see the values and brand.
I will keep you informed  ;).
It seam that the VCA are not the best ones but they are really descent. They are the trimmable 2181CL (0,02% THD typical) but not the best trimmable: 2181AL (0,005% THD typical). I don't know if it worth the improvement as badly trimmed 2181AL will be worst than well trimmed 2181CL...
 
When I had mine up and running yesterday, I didn't hear even the faintest of zipper noise in the fades I was doing.  Fast, slow, anything in between, SMOOTH!

The electrolytics are PACCOM brand.

22uF 25v  2 per ch
47uF 25v  1 per ch
1uF 50v  4 per ch

I don't know what each of their purposes is, but there's the values and brand at least.
 
Low caps values if they are in the signal path, classic values if they are for power supply purposes...
Waiting the thing to make some tests, but it seam to be really clean gear. I hope it won't be too long...

BTW, what do you call zipper noise ? Maybe there's a lack in my english  ;D...
 
Zipper noise would be due to the low control resolution with 128 increments, where you can hear the VCA or stair stepping the level, like if you do fast auto with midi. . . probably the VCA has a low enough slew rate to stay smooth?

It's good to read that these are a decent unit.  I picked one up a while ago to use with a summing mixer I'm planning on building with the ACA cards.  Also nice to see that it can just be run from MIDI CC's.  I'm thinking it wouldn't be too hard to make a reaktor ensemble that can store and recall auto with a PT session (or whatever DAW).  And have touch faders. . . right from my procontrol, Schweet.

Now I just need to nail down how I want to do a buss matrix.  BTW I love that the box has the jacks on the front as well, it will be awesome to be able to patch things into the mixer right from there.  I'm thinking 34x20 so I can print the stems (with parallel processing) back into PT and only have to recall the part of the mix that needs to be recalled.

Well now I'm excited again, time to get to work!!!  Thanks for this guys. . .
 
If it's anything like the THAT circuit, they use a capacitor on the control voltage to smooth the steps to an inaudible level.

Some of those caps HAVE to be in the audio path.  I can't tell without taking the main board out, which is more work than I want to commit to tonight. I'm sure a recap of mine would help tremendously.  Those caps don't seem like they were chosen due to their audio qualities.  

Ryan, that sounds like a pretty sweet setup!  If I had this working before I bought my console, I might have gone a similar direction, but now I'm just gonna use it with my console instead.  Way bigger, but bigger possibilities.  I like mobile too however.  Maybe that's a side project.  Those inserts on the front are quite useful.  I love em there too.  It automatically takes care of wiring up an insert patchbay!!!  Saves me a lot of time now.

My next conquest on that front is to figure out how to plug my mackie control universal straight into it and make THAT work.  Anybody know of a program that can write a midi map for those things?  I'm gonna go look for something.

Lolo-m, keep us updated on any findings you come up with once you get yours in hand!
 
this guy probably knows how to make those things talk to each other

http://mapage.noos.fr/michael.rosner/C4DESIGN/Mackie%20Control%20C4%20TrueLayouts%20Design.html
 
Received my Ultramix this morning  :).
After a long search about the digital chipset, here is what I can say:
- 8 bits technology everywhere, ADC and certainly DAC too even if I couldn't find any data sheet for it (or at least for the only component I couldn't indentify).

It would be possible to rewrite the software but it would be totaly worthless because it's definitely 8 bits. The only improvement would be moving faders but it would be a pain to implement this for an unnecessary feature (isn't optifile without moving faders ?)...

It's impossible for me to test the unit now  :'(. Mackie didn't use a 110/220 Volt transformer... I've got a 110 one and my main is 220...
I have to change the transformer to use it, not a big deal but I don't have the transformers now so...

Also, missing in my setup, the RJ45 wire between the Pilot and the Mix. Can someone test the way it is wired ? It's maybe a classic staright one but maybe not at all as it supplies the pilot from the 34. Thanks  :).
PS: don't plug an ethernet wire to test if it works, it may damage the unit.
 
lolo-m said:
...I would be interrested by getting the schematics to maybe be able to change the VCA's for better ones or to change a few components to get a better sounding device...

http://www.sendspace.com/file/5d0vvs

File Name: mackie_ultra-34.pdf
Size: 1MB | Description: MACKIE Ultra-34

Best Regards,
TB
 
monter said:
lolo-m said:
...I would be interrested by getting the schematics to maybe be able to change the VCA's for better ones or to change a few components to get a better sounding device...

http://www.sendspace.com/file/5d0vvs

File Name: mackie_ultra-34.pdf
Size: 1MB | Description: MACKIE Ultra-34

Best Regards,
TB
Many many many thanks !
I really love this forum  :-*...
 
The cable that came with mine was wired straight.  It followed the B wiring method of Whi.Orange-Orange-Whi.Green-Blue-Whi.Blue-Green-Whi.Brown-Brown.  Looking at the golden contact side of the connector.  Of course, this may not be the original cable for this unit.  I have read on Mackie's forum that a standard ethernet cable would work.  But then again, my ultrapilot seems to be the piece of the puzzle that isn't working exactly right.  The leds all power up, and the faders transmit midi.  I armed a midi track in logic taking input from the ultra-34 and moved faders and pushed buttons.  They all respond as they are supposed to.  The ultramix software was the only thing that won't recognize it.  Where did you hear that you couldn't use a standard ethernet cable?  As long as it is wired 1-1 from end to end, I don't see why it would be a problem.  If you start crossing over conductors, then I could see a problem.  I've gotten the exact same operation from the supplied cable, and my standard ethernet cables laying around my house.  multiple different ones.
 
phishman13 said:
The cable that came with mine was wired straight.  It followed the B wiring method of Whi.Orange-Orange-Whi.Green-Blue-Whi.Blue-Green-Whi.Brown-Brown.  Looking at the golden contact side of the connector.  Of course, this may not be the original cable for this unit.  I have read on Mackie's forum that a standard ethernet cable would work.  But then again, my ultrapilot seems to be the piece of the puzzle that isn't working exactly right.  The leds all power up, and the faders transmit midi.  I armed a midi track in logic taking input from the ultra-34 and moved faders and pushed buttons.  They all respond as they are supposed to.  The ultramix software was the only thing that won't recognize it.  Where did you hear that you couldn't use a standard ethernet cable?  As long as it is wired 1-1 from end to end, I don't see why it would be a problem.  If you start crossing over conductors, then I could see a problem.  I've gotten the exact same operation from the supplied cable, and my standard ethernet cables laying around my house.  multiple different ones.
Yes according to the schemo too, a straight ethernet cable work. My warning was just because I didn't know anything about the cable except the connectors so I didn't want someone to damage his unit for a simple test. And I was right in one case : with a crossed RJ45 wire you simply short the +10V to ground  :eek:... But a straight RJ45 will work  ;). As I found a 220/110 transformer at home I will start some test soon  :)...


From the schematic I see C104, C108, C105 as electrolytics in the signal path. Changing the value for a bigger one won't change anything as their low cut frequency is down to 0,5 Hz meaning a flat response from 5 Hz to up so...
 
OH gotcha, the CYOA disclaimer!  I understand completely!  I guess I was fearless since I only paid $35 for mine at a garage sale! 

That's good news you found a power transformer.  I hope you get yours up and running soon enough.

So I guess a recap would simply put new and better caps in place of the old ones.  No actual value upgrade.  Its probably worth it though.  Especially on mine, it looks like the rack unit has suffered a wee bit of water damage.  The bottom of the front panel is corroded a bit, and I can see evidence of water on the pcb's.  It all still works though!
 
phishman13 said:
OH gotcha, the CYOA disclaimer!  I understand completely!  I guess I was fearless since I only paid $35 for mine at a garage sale! 

That's good news you found a power transformer.  I hope you get yours up and running soon enough.

So I guess a recap would simply put new and better caps in place of the old ones.  No actual value upgrade.  Its probably worth it though.  Especially on mine, it looks like the rack unit has suffered a wee bit of water damage.  The bottom of the front panel is corroded a bit, and I can see evidence of water on the pcb's.  It all still works though!
Mine is corroded too but the evidence of water on the PCB isn't due to a water damage. I used to be a repairman and the first time I saw this kind of marks I thought the same. But I learned it was due to the solvents after the wave soldering. So nothing to be scared of  :). It's perfectly normal. I've got the same on mine.
Rust is certainly a proof of the economies made by Mackie to sell those product at a low price. Bad iron covered by bad paint...
 
Just wanted to jump in with a picture of the vca section from my Ultramix as I think it will help out to have the physical layout to go along with the schematic.  I am interested about any options on upgrading the audio circuit. 

A quote from Jim Williams on GearSltz about NJM4650 replacement (some require SIP to DIP conversion) "If you want stability without oscillation or compensation work, the BurrBrown OPA2134 is a good choice as are these:
AD823, OP-275, OP-249, TLE2072, TLE2142. The high test stuff would be LM6172, LT1358. The OPA2604 is squirly as well and may need some extra comp work."

 

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Dualflip said:
OHHH and BTW, in case some one is looking, service manual and schematics can be downloaded here:

THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

No, seriously.  Thanks!

I have been looking for that for a long time.  If you get any mods completed, def keep us all up to date.  I put mine away for a while, but I recently had to downsize my space, and had to put the console into storage, so this might be making an appearance again.
 
Hi all,

I'm curious as to any progress anyone has made regarding mods to an Ultramix - anything good or bad to report?
I am considering one of these systems.

Thanks,
Keith
 

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