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Mains is supposed to be 220 to 240VAC from LINE to NEUTRAL
What is "Neutral"? Why would a homeowner care? This is truly a Power Company concept.
In your home, what you want is two wires 230V apart so your lights and appliances work.
And you would like a Safety Earth to connect to, so that if a live wire comes in contact with your appliance cabinet, it will blow a fuse and save your life.
It would be perfectly reasonable to give you 230V Center-Tapped. In fact that is said to be "better for sound". It is also how I get power in the US, plus the center-tap is rated for normal current and I can run my 115V toys from it.
Another option is 3-phase wYe, where the hot conductors are not quite in-phase with each other.
Translated to 128V to center, this gives 222V across your "230V" legs, which is in-sight of your 227V, but just enough off to cast doubts. Maybe the apartment building only takes 2 of the 3 legs and that unbalances the feed.
Or it could be there is NO connection to utility Earth, and you see the effects of all the appliances plugged-in which in a large building would tend to be equal both sides (but more likely 113V than 128V).
In any case, this should not matter. You must assume that *either* of the power wires may be "hot". This means you will be fine if both are hot. As they are on all my 230V appliances, and in Balanced Audio Power.
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burnt a couple power transformers in a few seconds
*Build a Lamp Limiter!!* A power transformer should NOT care if its primary leads are hot, or which way. Even if you "ground" the transformer, 500V difference from ground will not puncture the insulation. You may be mis-wiring the transformer. A lamp-limiter will delay the smoke and light an alarm.
My last (known) major screw-up was a 120V:24V wired backward: 120V on the 24V winding. It sucked so much current the office lights dimmed, which alerted me "something wrong". If the office had better wiring I might have left it powered until the smoke got out.