My new mic modification article in SOUND & RECORDING

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I tried the translator and sure enough most of the technicalities survived the jump well enough. 
Translating German humour to English though , even for a skilled human could present some difficulties  ;D

If its ok with the author I would like to post the full text translation here , I said I'd ask first just in case .
You'd still need to refer to the original article to see the pictures .

 
Tubetec said:
If its ok with the author I would like to post the full text translation here

Doesn't make any sense to post text here, anyone that wants to read the article can go to the link and just press the "T" button on their browser to translate it to their preferred language. It's an immediate translation that preserves all the article architecture with the photos.
 
Hi Rossi,
if you in the meantime come to the forum, I would like to leave a question for you.

If I just want to bypass the HP filter and not use it all, I should remove R10, C9 and the switch.
Should i also leave R9 (10Meg) or remove it? Why?

Thank you so much
 
Whoops said:
Hi Rossi,
if you in the meantime come to the forum, I would like to leave a question for you.

If I just want to bypass the HP filter and not use it all, I should remove R10, C9 and the switch.
Should i also leave R9 (10Meg) or remove it? Why?

Thank you so much

Haven't been here for quite a while!

If you want to remove the HP filter, it would be best to remove all parts in the pink section of the schematic, i.e. C7, C8, C9, R9, R10. That's the cleanest solution.

Regarding a translation, I don't think a machine translation should be posted. Machine translation gets better all the time, so it's better for people to use the newest tools available. Personally I don't have the time to work on a "human" translation. It's been a tough year, and if I manage to get some time off, I'll just chill. Also, this article is more than 10 years old; if I were to do it again, I might do some things differently.
 
Rossi said:
If you want to remove the HP filter, it would be best to remove all parts in the pink section of the schematic, i.e. C7, C8, C9, R9, R10. That's the cleanest solution.

My doubt it's because C7, C8 and R10 are always in the circuit. With or without the Low cut switch...

Thank you so much Rossi
 
Whoops said:
My doubt it's because C7, C8 and R10 are always in the circuit. With or without the Low cut switch...

Thank you so much Rossi

They're really not doing much, if you leave them in there. But then again they have no use, either. And in a circuit this simple, each component should do something useful.
 
Rossi said:
They're really not doing much, if you leave them in there. But then again they have no use, either. And in a circuit this simple, each component should do something useful.

I'm asking this because some other people that remove that switch replace the C7 and C8 caps for 1x 180pf capacitor.
I guess thats the series capacitance value for C7 and C8.

Any reason why people leave it there?

Thank you so much for your patience Rossi
 
Whoops said:
I'm asking this because some other people that remove that switch replace the C7 and C8 caps for 1x 180pf capacitor.
I guess thats the series capacitance value for C7 and C8.

Any reason why people leave it there?

Thank you so much for your patience Rossi

Well in my article I suggested you *can* put in a 180p capacitor, so maybe the read my article or they simply did their own calculations. 180p doesn't really do very much; it will probably not affect the frequency response below 20 kHz. It will affect the phase response - can you hear it? And if so, does it change the sound for the better? Probably not. But if you want to keep the sound as original as possible, 180p is about the series capacitance of the two caps removed.
 
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