Need help finding a replacment digital encoder for Emotiva DC-1 DAC

[monkeyxx]

This is the volume encoder from my Emotiva DC-1.  It's a hot item for me because if I need to fix the DC-1 so I can sell it and meet some other studio needs.  Better DACs have come out since this was releasaed and I already have a few of them.

On the right (GREEN) you will see the original part from Emotiva.  Inside it has 3 wipers, and a different number of "notches" on the tracks.

One the left (BLUE) is my replacement part from eBay that doesn't work the same.  It's got four wipers (hard to see in my photo) and a smaller number of "notches" in the tracks.

They "turn" in roughly the same amount of turns but I haven't counted how many total.

The push button funcion does work on the bad replacement part.  However the turning does not do anything.  If I crank it really hard and fast I can get small changes in volume on the DC-1.

The Green encoder has a plastic shaft that has worn down and become loose over time, resulting in intermittent function, which is why I'm trying to replace it, and ideally replace it with a metal shaft part since I assume that will be more durable over time.

My question is how can I go shopping for a proper replacement for the green encoder on the right?  Clearly I'm not looking at the right specifications or data sheet details.  I need to find out what I need to know so I can order the right part next time without another mixup.  The blue ones will just go in a spare parts bag or something.  I understand potentiometers fine but encoders are new to me.

I'm not too worried about the footprint as I am able to do offboard wiring inside the DC-1 rather than use that horrid/junky black PCB you see I've butchered here.  I wouldn't be able to use it without a real desoldering tool which I don't have right now.  That lead bearing solder is really staying in those through holes.

Thanks so much for the help, here is the image: (sorry it is so large)

Here is a link to open the image in a new tab or download: https://i.imgur.com/XobsVsf.jpg

 

[gyraf]

Being a 3-pin device, it must be an incremental encoder: Two outputs, spaced 90degrees.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rotary_encoder#Incremental_encoder

There are not many ways this can be made.

Are you sure that you connected the right pins? Order of connections may not be the same on your substitute.

Jakob E.

 

[monkeyxx]

Thank you ever so much for the reply!

I went ahead and ordered a Bourns part I was able to find when searching for "incremental rotary encoders" I found one in stock ad DigiKey that looks pretty similar to the green part in my photo.  (Part number is PEC11R-4215K-S0024)

I'm going to go ahead and double and triple check my pinout/wiring as well when I get back inside the DC-1.  That's something I was a little bit worried about, too.

You learn something new every day, well at least I'm trying to!

 

[Bo Deadly]

Donno if that will work but the pins don't match that PCB. The original green one looks like a wide pitch too. Measure and compare with the dimensions in datasheets.

Here's a Mouser list that is probably vaguely what you want:

Incremental 2 Channel Knurled Encoders

Count the number of detents. That't might increase your chances of it working. That and resolution may even need to match depending on how the microcontroller code was written.

 

[monkeyxx]

I think I counted that it's a 24 detent

Not sure how to figure out the resolution (PPR).  I might call the Emotiva tech line and ask one of the techs for advice on this part.

 

[monkeyxx]

SOLVED

I used the DigiKey Part number is PEC11R-4215K-S0024

I bought two.  One I cracked open to probe, the other one got installed.

It turns out the pinout was most likely the problem going in.

The original Emotiva encoder has a different arrangement of the 1-2-3 pins (the ones that are reminiscent of a potentiometer, sticking out of the same side.)

I just matched the solid track, and the two segmented tracks to each pin and substituted the new part that way with the old one.

The PCB was not usable for this smaller part.  The pinout didn't match anyway.

My first attempt the encoder was working backwards.  So then I swapped two of the pins.

Not a perfect job, but a huge learning experience, and now the DC-1 is working "like new," so I guess all is well.  The persistence paid off in this case.

Thanks for the help!!