NEVE 1081-Switch assembly/Pot idea & new comp. placement

[ToroRojo]

Thomas' heatsink doesn't electrically connect the cans. Plastic screws are used, and there is a layer of insulation (little square thingy in the picture) between the can shrouds and the headsink.

In regards to the potentiometer solution, aren't the milled pieces too large for one of the switches?

Also, since I have access to a drill press, but not a milling machine, what is your opinion of drilling into the shaft out of some 6mm for the 3.2mm rods? One hole along the axis, for the rod to slide into, and another (tapped) hole along the radius for the set screw. It seems that would work as well...

 

[Infernal_Death]

This is really cool. I just decided to work on this project again and thought with horror about working through all this and find all the mistakes and then comes Frank :thumb:

Much appreciated. (hast dir nen Keks verdient :green: )

Flo

 

[nrgrecording]

[quote author="ToroRojo"]In regards to the potentiometer solution, aren't the milled pieces too large for one of the switches?[/quote]

Yeah... the two deck switch has less space... so the milled peaces must not be longer than 14,2... mm or so. With my ones it works... i had to put some washera to one side of the potentiometer.. because the thread of the potentiometer is 8mm or so.

[quote author="ToroRojo"]
Also, since I have access to a drill press, but not a milling machine, what is your opinion of drilling into the shaft out of some 6mm for the 3.2mm rods? One hole along the axis, for the rod to slide into, and another (tapped) hole along the radius for the set screw. It seems that would work as well...[/quote]

I don't know if I understand that correctly. You want to drill a hole into the potentiometer shaft so that the 3,2mm rod will fit into it? Then fix it with a set screw?
Whatever your idea was... please check it out and let us know! :thumb:

@Flo: thanks for 'Keks'! :green:

 

[mysticmerlin]

Bit of a naive question but what caps should I get for this project? I have 4 sets and I want to get this thing started. Has anyone finally made a BOM? Thanks for any help.

 

[Tekay]

I think that non metalized polyesters and Styroflex was used in the original. Epcos makes a wide range of non metalized polyesters.

 

[mysticmerlin]

Thanks for the reply but I was wondering which caps you actually chose for this project. I don't have enough experience to take this kind of decision and was wondering if anyone could help me on this specific project. Cheers

 

[nrgrecording]

[quote author="mysticmerlin"]Thanks for the reply but I was wondering which caps you actually chose for this project. I don't have enough experience to take this kind of decision and was wondering if anyone could help me on this specific project. Cheers[/quote]

I use Styroflex capacitors for the small values (pico farad) and wima caps (as Tekay said [metallized polyester]) The MKS-2 is available at 20% or 5% tolerance. There is no partslist with the exact order codes out there as far as i know... so you have to find all parts yourselfs...
Mostly its hard to source all the components online... a printed catalog is much better. You have to check which spacing/grid dimension/lead-wire spacing will fit to the pcb. Some mm smaller or bigger is not the problem if you can't find a type which fits 100%.
In the pdf http://www.nrgrecording.de/NEVE1081_2.pdf all the values in pF are Styroflex, all values in nF are metallized thus wima MKS caps.

Take a look at the picture:

Good luck!

Frank.

 

[mysticmerlin]

U Rock. Thanks so much for the help.
I just recorded an album on this desk
(32 channels of 1081's somewhere in the parisian suburbs).
beautiful sound. great eq.

 

[Cainester]

Wow-wie,

That pic made me moist!

 

[tony dB]

when this gets switched on, you can actually see all lightbulbs on the Eifeltower dim...

Super console!

 

[nrgrecording]

Hello.

I did some work on the switches. I decided not to use same-coloured cables.... It's not that easy to identify all the wires. :wink:

There is control cable available which has the same colour codes which is used in the neve1081. But it wasn't easy to get. At least in smaller quantities. So I decided to use the easier available LIYCY 36x0,14mm² wire. The colours maybe available in a LIYY cable also I think (thats the unshielded version) but my supplier had only the shielded version because this can be used for SUB-D connectors...
Because not all colours are available with this cable I had to change some colours... in the end it works better as I thougt. :green:
I hope the cable is available from other distributors. The "reichelt" order code is "LIYCY 36-5" for 5meters=10,50?.
I made a small pdf with the colours I'd used and with all the P.. numbers for the connection to tommys pcb. Maybe it helps.

There are still some questions:

Question 1:
The 3pole switches. There are different switches available! The SR18000 and the SR18002, both blore edwards diamond H switches.
On the SR18000 the wafer sequence is "ACB", on the SR18002 the wafer sequence is ABC.
All switches seems to do the same. Only the waver in the middle is shifted/staggered/out of phase? however it is called... ahem.. different. :wink:At the moment I wired the treble switch "ACB". I think it doesn't make any differences as long as the interconnections were done properly.. am I right?

Question 2:
Are the original potentiometers center click (center detend) ?

Question 3:
At the filter switch... Which knob switches the upper and which the lower filter?
Outer ring switches the lower frequencies,
inner switch (knob) switches the higher frequencies?

Thanks,
Frank.

changed colour code wiring, with tommytones PCB interconnections: [unchecked]
http://www.nrgrecording.de/temporary/NEVE_1081_switches.pdf

hmm.. next time I should try to wire the switches from the back to the front.. could be easier

 

[tony dB]

yummie!

 

[matthias]

that takes my breath away...

I really hope that it all works when you power it up the first time...

 

[Infernal_Death]

Hey Frank looks good so far. Sorry i can't answer any of your questions as i don't have those switches.
Right now i am also working on my 1081 (thanks to you and your updated parts pdf file ! :thumb: )
Here is a pic of my version, it's the "kraut und rüben" version right now, there is a lot of work to do until it's even far from finished.

Oh by the way, Frank what are those connectors you use for connecting all those wires to the motherboard ? I see some pins on those holes of the board. Any parts number ? I am still thinking about how to connect all wires to the motherboard without soldering them directly to the board. Wouldn't be fun if i need to take the board out of the case and have to desolder all wires :wink:

Flo

 

[tony dB]

:shock:

 

[tony dB]

who wants to run my studio for 6 months...
i have a lot of solderwork to do

 

[Tekay]

Flo!
Don't forget that you have to use other cap values for low / high if your using standard switches! Or use a diodmatrix and twelv 2pol relays for each switch.

 

[Infernal_Death]

Yes i haven't forgotten (hmm don't know if the grammar is right ! :green: ) I already ordered and received all replacement values. I will use mostly 2 caps in place of one, this way i have managed to get pretty close to the necessary values. I will mount one cap at the top and the other at the bottom of the board. Should work out quite smoothly. But thanks for the reminder :thumb:

I guess the relay matrix is also a neat way but i don't have any space left in the case :shock:

Flo

 

[nrgrecording]

Flo: Reichelt order code: SL 1x40G 2,54 0,18? (Stiftleiste) :wink:

 

[Infernal_Death]

Thanks Frank
And what about the connectors for the cables ? Or do you solder them directly on the "stifte" ?

Flo