nrgrecording
Well-known member
Flo: auf jeden Fall! Direkt anjelötet den Krimskrams. Nur ne jelötete Verbindung is ne jute Verbindung. :green:
NEVE 1081-Switch assembly/Pot idea & new comp. placement
- Thread starter nrgrecording
- Start date
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jensenmann
Well-known member
Kubi, dich habe wohl meine Afrikageschichten inspiriert. :green:
AudioHammer
Well-known member
With regard to the solution that NRG Recording devised:
Does anyone have the capability to make these shaft converters and 3.2mm shafts for the 10-81 concentric switches? I do not have access to a lathe and would like to purchase these from someone on the forum. :grin:
Thanks!
audiohammer
>Hi guys.
>Some time ago I recovered some red pcbs...
>As far as I know nobody get them working right? Me too.
>But I decided to get them wired and populated... so my children can do >the rest or so.
>This week I found a solution for the switch assemblies...
>The problem is:
>The knobs (gain) are made for ca. 3mm potentiometer shafts (so it is >possible to use a 6mm knob for the outer ring (frequency).
>But where to get potentiometers with a 3mm shaft? Hmm.
>Maybe the original knobs are 3,2mm? Otherwise the knob would >became a bit "shaky". However... 3mm 3,2mm pots are hard to get. I >think piher makes them. But I bet the pots are hard to get.. no standard >stock... maybe only available in bigger quantities... AND... if you need a >spare pot...
>My idea is:
>I visited a friend who have a 'lathe'. Nice machine!
>We used a 12mm aluminium 'bar'. Drilled a 3,2mm hole at one side, >3mm hole at the other side... two holes with a thread for the grub >screw... and it works perfectly. I used a 3,2mm metal bar for the >potentiometer and sand the tip down to 3mm. So I can use every 6mm >potentiometer I can find. I think the original one uses center detent >potentiometers, right?
Does anyone have the capability to make these shaft converters and 3.2mm shafts for the 10-81 concentric switches? I do not have access to a lathe and would like to purchase these from someone on the forum. :grin:
Thanks!
audiohammer
>Hi guys.
>Some time ago I recovered some red pcbs...
>As far as I know nobody get them working right? Me too.
>But I decided to get them wired and populated... so my children can do >the rest or so.
>This week I found a solution for the switch assemblies...
>The problem is:
>The knobs (gain) are made for ca. 3mm potentiometer shafts (so it is >possible to use a 6mm knob for the outer ring (frequency).
>But where to get potentiometers with a 3mm shaft? Hmm.
>Maybe the original knobs are 3,2mm? Otherwise the knob would >became a bit "shaky". However... 3mm 3,2mm pots are hard to get. I >think piher makes them. But I bet the pots are hard to get.. no standard >stock... maybe only available in bigger quantities... AND... if you need a >spare pot...
>My idea is:
>I visited a friend who have a 'lathe'. Nice machine!
>We used a 12mm aluminium 'bar'. Drilled a 3,2mm hole at one side, >3mm hole at the other side... two holes with a thread for the grub >screw... and it works perfectly. I used a 3,2mm metal bar for the >potentiometer and sand the tip down to 3mm. So I can use every 6mm >potentiometer I can find. I think the original one uses center detent >potentiometers, right?
Hey Frank,
Just to let you know, the gain frequency gain pots are not center detent on the original ones.
Also, what size grub screws did you use? And I'm assuming you drilled a hole then taped them for the grub screws, right?
Just to let you know, the gain frequency gain pots are not center detent on the original ones.
Also, what size grub screws did you use? And I'm assuming you drilled a hole then taped them for the grub screws, right?
nrgrecording
Well-known member
[quote author="Sender"]Just to let you know, the gain frequency gain pots are not center detent on the original ones.[/quote]
Hmm. Is there any reason for this? I thought they're center detent for a fast zero setting? I think the GML 8200 isn't center detent, too (level/gain pot)? Strange.
[quote author="Sender"]
Also, what size grub screws did you use? And I'm assuming you drilled a hole then taped them for the grub screws, right?[/quote]
The size of the grub screw is "M3". I haven't done it myselfs because I don't have a turning lathe but I think he'd drilled a 2,5mm center hole and used a screw tap with an ISO metric fine thread.
Frank.
Hmm. Is there any reason for this? I thought they're center detent for a fast zero setting? I think the GML 8200 isn't center detent, too (level/gain pot)? Strange.
[quote author="Sender"]
Also, what size grub screws did you use? And I'm assuming you drilled a hole then taped them for the grub screws, right?[/quote]
The size of the grub screw is "M3". I haven't done it myselfs because I don't have a turning lathe but I think he'd drilled a 2,5mm center hole and used a screw tap with an ISO metric fine thread.
Frank.
M
mattiasNYC
Guest
Frank (or someone else),
I'm not sure if I saw this suggested, but, is or was there a reason to not drill directly into the gain pot's shaft so that the "converters" wouldn't be necessary at all? The pot's 6mm, so a 3.2mm whole wouldn't be a problem, right?
I may also be able to get these shaft converters made by my friend. He's promised to give me a hand with this project since his family has a machine shop, and I can see if he's willing to do a bunch of extra pieces.
mattias...
I'm not sure if I saw this suggested, but, is or was there a reason to not drill directly into the gain pot's shaft so that the "converters" wouldn't be necessary at all? The pot's 6mm, so a 3.2mm whole wouldn't be a problem, right?
I may also be able to get these shaft converters made by my friend. He's promised to give me a hand with this project since his family has a machine shop, and I can see if he's willing to do a bunch of extra pieces.
mattias...
nrgrecording
Well-known member
Hi mattias.
Thats a good idea, too!
The only disadvantages are:
-You have to find the center of the potentiometer
-You'll need a clamp for fixing the potentiometer
-You'll need the potentiometers for the mod (could be a problem if you want to make some extraconverters for others
-If the potentiometers needs to be changed you can't easily change the potentiometer to any other potentiometer
The converters I have can be made on any cheap n' used 300$ lathe very fast. There are several ways to do it... it was just the idea of my lathe-friend. :wink:
A big advantage with this methode is... you can make it at home.
Frank.
Thats a good idea, too!
The only disadvantages are:
-You have to find the center of the potentiometer
-You'll need a clamp for fixing the potentiometer
-You'll need the potentiometers for the mod (could be a problem if you want to make some extraconverters for others
-If the potentiometers needs to be changed you can't easily change the potentiometer to any other potentiometer
The converters I have can be made on any cheap n' used 300$ lathe very fast. There are several ways to do it... it was just the idea of my lathe-friend. :wink:
A big advantage with this methode is... you can make it at home.
Frank.
M
mattiasNYC
Guest
Cool, was just curious...
dissonantstring
Well-known member
hi frank,
i'm not a machinest-type and have never really done much mechanical type things so i'm a bit confused and was wondering if you could clarify something for me.
the rotary switches that you used seem to be the D2 series ElectroSwitch type. Is this correct? I know they are only about 1" in diam. which allows them to fit in a 1U space.
my question is, did you machine the center hole in the switch shaft to fit the 3.2mm pot shaft through or did you find a replacement bar which can turn the wafer that already has a hole through the center (meaning did you just replace the entire rotary switch shaft)?
thanks for all your help!
kind regards,
grant
i'm not a machinest-type and have never really done much mechanical type things so i'm a bit confused and was wondering if you could clarify something for me.
the rotary switches that you used seem to be the D2 series ElectroSwitch type. Is this correct? I know they are only about 1" in diam. which allows them to fit in a 1U space.
my question is, did you machine the center hole in the switch shaft to fit the 3.2mm pot shaft through or did you find a replacement bar which can turn the wafer that already has a hole through the center (meaning did you just replace the entire rotary switch shaft)?
thanks for all your help!
kind regards,
grant
nrgrecording
Well-known member
[quote author="dissonantstring"]the rotary switches that you used seem to be the D2 series ElectroSwitch type. Is this correct?[/quote]
I don't know! Maybe! :roll: :wink:
These are the switches of the group order.
[quote author="dissonantstring"]
I know they are only about 1" in diam. which allows them to fit in a 1U space.
my question is, did you machine the center hole in the switch shaft to fit the 3.2mm pot shaft through or did you find a replacement bar which can turn the wafer that already has a hole through the center (meaning did you just replace the entire rotary switch shaft)?[/quote]
There never was any original pot shaft! :wink: So I had to find a pot shaft anyway. The problem is to find a pot which has a very long shaft and the strage diameter. I just did the simple way and made a new shaft... so I can replace the pots in the future with any other potentiometer which is much easier to find. :wink:
Frank.
I don't know! Maybe! :roll: :wink:
These are the switches of the group order.
[quote author="dissonantstring"]
I know they are only about 1" in diam. which allows them to fit in a 1U space.
my question is, did you machine the center hole in the switch shaft to fit the 3.2mm pot shaft through or did you find a replacement bar which can turn the wafer that already has a hole through the center (meaning did you just replace the entire rotary switch shaft)?[/quote]
There never was any original pot shaft! :wink: So I had to find a pot shaft anyway. The problem is to find a pot which has a very long shaft and the strage diameter. I just did the simple way and made a new shaft... so I can replace the pots in the future with any other potentiometer which is much easier to find. :wink:
Frank.
dissonantstring
Well-known member
[quote author="nrgrecording"]
I don't know! Maybe! :roll: :wink:
These are the switches of the group order.[/quote]
ah, i forgot those were from the blore edwards group buy.
[quote author="nrgrecording"]
There never was any original pot shaft! :wink: So I had to find a pot shaft anyway. The problem is to find a pot which has a very long shaft and the strage diameter. I just did the simple way and made a new shaft... so I can replace the pots in the future with any other potentiometer which is much easier to find. :wink:
Frank.[/quote]
i have an idea for the potentiometer shaft but i was thinking of how to change out the shaft in the D2 series rotarty switch to one with a hole so that the pot shaft can go through it. i think i'll need to research this a bit more and experiment with the D2 series switches (but they are expensive! $40 for a 4pol./6pos.
thanks frank!
-grant
I don't know! Maybe! :roll: :wink:
These are the switches of the group order.[/quote]
ah, i forgot those were from the blore edwards group buy.
[quote author="nrgrecording"]
There never was any original pot shaft! :wink: So I had to find a pot shaft anyway. The problem is to find a pot which has a very long shaft and the strage diameter. I just did the simple way and made a new shaft... so I can replace the pots in the future with any other potentiometer which is much easier to find. :wink:
Frank.[/quote]
i have an idea for the potentiometer shaft but i was thinking of how to change out the shaft in the D2 series rotarty switch to one with a hole so that the pot shaft can go through it. i think i'll need to research this a bit more and experiment with the D2 series switches (but they are expensive! $40 for a 4pol./6pos.
thanks frank!
-grant
dissonantstring
Well-known member
hi frank,
did you have these hollow shafts custom machined?
how did you put them into the threaded portion and down through the wafer?
is it as simple as removing the retaining ring on the end of the threaded portion and sliding the shaft out?
i am thinking if I can find a suitable hollow shaft with a 6mm O.D. then I'll replace the solid shaft which comes with the D2 series switches. i'll probably need to shape the flat side of the shaft to fit the wafer hole.
thanks,
grant
did you have these hollow shafts custom machined?
how did you put them into the threaded portion and down through the wafer?
is it as simple as removing the retaining ring on the end of the threaded portion and sliding the shaft out?
i am thinking if I can find a suitable hollow shaft with a 6mm O.D. then I'll replace the solid shaft which comes with the D2 series switches. i'll probably need to shape the flat side of the shaft to fit the wafer hole.
thanks,
grant
ToroRojo
Well-known member
[quote author="mattiasNYC"]Frank (or someone else),
I'm not sure if I saw this suggested, but, is or was there a reason to not drill directly into the gain pot's shaft so that the "converters" wouldn't be necessary at all? The pot's 6mm, so a 3.2mm whole wouldn't be a problem, right?
I may also be able to get these shaft converters made by my friend. He's promised to give me a hand with this project since his family has a machine shop, and I can see if he's willing to do a bunch of extra pieces.
mattias...[/quote]
That's what I did...
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=15222&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
I'm not sure if I saw this suggested, but, is or was there a reason to not drill directly into the gain pot's shaft so that the "converters" wouldn't be necessary at all? The pot's 6mm, so a 3.2mm whole wouldn't be a problem, right?
I may also be able to get these shaft converters made by my friend. He's promised to give me a hand with this project since his family has a machine shop, and I can see if he's willing to do a bunch of extra pieces.
mattias...[/quote]
That's what I did...
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=15222&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
dissonantstring
Well-known member
hi ToroRojo,
i'm assuming that you got your switches with the blore edwards group buy a while back. did the switch shaft have a hole through the center or did you need to drill that out as well? BTW, i think you maybe the first to have ever completed this project stateside. good job! (we look forward to your guidance).
thanks.
-grant
i'm assuming that you got your switches with the blore edwards group buy a while back. did the switch shaft have a hole through the center or did you need to drill that out as well? BTW, i think you maybe the first to have ever completed this project stateside. good job! (we look forward to your guidance).
thanks.
-grant
kazper
Well-known member
Grant,
Electroswitch and Elma sell through hole switches like the one pictured. They even have it ready for a rear mounted pot. Take a look at there web site and one of the models would work in a single space rack easy.
I'm going to look into this in depth soon myself, maby the two of us can come up with a solution that will work and be of excelent quality.
Since I'm coming up with nothing on the switches and knob's that are original style. I'm looking for some extra's of each to take a look at and get the michanical dimmensions. If anyone has any info I would be glad to know about the knob's or has some they don't need or at least for a little while let me know.
Kevin
Electroswitch and Elma sell through hole switches like the one pictured. They even have it ready for a rear mounted pot. Take a look at there web site and one of the models would work in a single space rack easy.
I'm going to look into this in depth soon myself, maby the two of us can come up with a solution that will work and be of excelent quality.
Since I'm coming up with nothing on the switches and knob's that are original style. I'm looking for some extra's of each to take a look at and get the michanical dimmensions. If anyone has any info I would be glad to know about the knob's or has some they don't need or at least for a little while let me know.
Kevin
ToroRojo
Well-known member
[quote author="dissonantstring"]hi ToroRojo,
i'm assuming that you got your switches with the blore edwards group buy a while back. did the switch shaft have a hole through the center or did you need to drill that out as well? BTW, i think you maybe the first to have ever completed this project stateside. good job! (we look forward to your guidance).
thanks.
-grant[/quote]
I purchased the PCBs, transformers, switches, and switch knobs from someone who was part of the original groupbuy(s) but didn't have the time to do the project. The switches came from the factory with the hole in the center of the shafts.
I'm happy to answer any questions anyone has. It was an incredibly fun project, but it wasn't easy. I should probably make a webpage/FAQ about it.
i'm assuming that you got your switches with the blore edwards group buy a while back. did the switch shaft have a hole through the center or did you need to drill that out as well? BTW, i think you maybe the first to have ever completed this project stateside. good job! (we look forward to your guidance).
thanks.
-grant[/quote]
I purchased the PCBs, transformers, switches, and switch knobs from someone who was part of the original groupbuy(s) but didn't have the time to do the project. The switches came from the factory with the hole in the center of the shafts.
I'm happy to answer any questions anyone has. It was an incredibly fun project, but it wasn't easy. I should probably make a webpage/FAQ about it.
dissonantstring
Well-known member
cool kevin!
let's tackle this one from multiple fronts. a combined effort has to yield some good results. i'm kind of slowly approaching this project, but i like things to keep me busy in the meantime. so this will be fun. i'm pretty sure it is the D2 series (i think it's the only one that has a 1" diam.) and by looking at the info on the website they do offer it in dual concentric design but you need to contact the factory.
i found some aluminum rods at mcmaster.com . we could try the tororojo way and drill out the shaft on an off-the-shelf alpha pot and add a set screw (or super glue the thing in :grin
. the mechanicals for mounting the pot to the rear of the switch doesn't look too difficult, just add a small round threaded standoff and maybe a washer with a 3/8" hole in the middle and drill out some small holes on either side to mount the washer to the standoffs and then mount the pot through the washer hole.
i'll try and see if I can drill out a hole into the shaft of a pot (got some laying around to be sacrificed).
let's see what we can come up with! :thumb:
-grant
let's tackle this one from multiple fronts. a combined effort has to yield some good results. i'm kind of slowly approaching this project, but i like things to keep me busy in the meantime. so this will be fun. i'm pretty sure it is the D2 series (i think it's the only one that has a 1" diam.) and by looking at the info on the website they do offer it in dual concentric design but you need to contact the factory.
i found some aluminum rods at mcmaster.com . we could try the tororojo way and drill out the shaft on an off-the-shelf alpha pot and add a set screw (or super glue the thing in :grin
. the mechanicals for mounting the pot to the rear of the switch doesn't look too difficult, just add a small round threaded standoff and maybe a washer with a 3/8" hole in the middle and drill out some small holes on either side to mount the washer to the standoffs and then mount the pot through the washer hole.i'll try and see if I can drill out a hole into the shaft of a pot (got some laying around to be sacrificed).
let's see what we can come up with! :thumb:
-grant
dissonantstring
Well-known member
[quote author="ToroRojo"]
I'm happy to answer any questions anyone has. It was an incredibly fun project, but it wasn't easy. I should probably make a webpage/FAQ about it.[/quote]
cool! thanks tororojo!
i'm sure we'll have questions. i know you took some pics of your progress. if you had details on the steps that would be cool to post on a webpage. this is a serious DIY build so any help would be great! between you and franks always awesome layouts and wiring guides it should be much easier (i hope).
i can feel the love for this community fellas! GROUP DIY! :thumb:
-grant
I'm happy to answer any questions anyone has. It was an incredibly fun project, but it wasn't easy. I should probably make a webpage/FAQ about it.[/quote]
cool! thanks tororojo!
i'm sure we'll have questions. i know you took some pics of your progress. if you had details on the steps that would be cool to post on a webpage. this is a serious DIY build so any help would be great! between you and franks always awesome layouts and wiring guides it should be much easier (i hope).
i can feel the love for this community fellas! GROUP DIY! :thumb:
-grant
Hello,
This he is without a doubt one of the greatest problems, along with knobs to clone 1081. The subject of the concentric rotary switches is of difficult solution, but certainly something will be necessary to do.
The switches RS: 352-187 are 1”
They can be used wafers Non-Shorting for everything less in the treble. The problem greater this in wafer of the treble is that it must be Shorting. In RS I at least do not see that there is to wafer with these characteristics for the treble and that it has this measurement. If to somebody a solution is happened to him…
Another problem is the axis, since not this drilled, would be necessary to make the hole with a winch as it proposes dissonantstring, to be able to use the concentric potentiometers. I do not know since this with guarantees could become of success.
For knobs with look neve would be viable to make them in aluminum in a winch?
-.delaymix
This he is without a doubt one of the greatest problems, along with knobs to clone 1081. The subject of the concentric rotary switches is of difficult solution, but certainly something will be necessary to do.
The switches RS: 352-187 are 1”
They can be used wafers Non-Shorting for everything less in the treble. The problem greater this in wafer of the treble is that it must be Shorting. In RS I at least do not see that there is to wafer with these characteristics for the treble and that it has this measurement. If to somebody a solution is happened to him…
Another problem is the axis, since not this drilled, would be necessary to make the hole with a winch as it proposes dissonantstring, to be able to use the concentric potentiometers. I do not know since this with guarantees could become of success.
For knobs with look neve would be viable to make them in aluminum in a winch?
-.delaymix
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