Newbie builds GroupDIY 51X rack

[chunger]

Hello,

I'm pretty much a complete newbie to electronics.  I've been lurking here in forums for some time trying to find answers and solutions to a lot of the questions I've been having.  When I poked my head back into the forum a few weeks ago, I saw the GroupDIY 51X rack project in it's 2nd batch, and thought it might be time to jump in and see what happens.  No point just sitting on the sidelines watching all the other kids have all the fun!

An email to Jeff at ClassicAPI.com (US liason for the project) revealed that a few folks had backed out for various reasons and a rack kit was available right now, so I jumped on it.  I basically said, "Give me all the bits you have!"

Painting by numbers is probably a better 1st step for a beginner, and I think I'll probably have a lot of questions many of which are already answered in other threads, but I figure there are other people who are starting from the same point I am and a little more detailed information would not hurt the world.  To a lot of folks, the stuff I take pictures of is probably so mundane that it's almost a waste of time, but for me, as a newbie, more information is preferred, and if I can make it easier for someone else to build this project, it'll be double success.

Another reason for my posting is so people who know better than me can warn me if I'm about to do something wrong and cause myself a lot of grief in the build process. . . also to warn of upcoming hurdles I should be aware of.

Every journey begins with a first step:

Shopping List (updated as needed throughout build)

Already purchased:

1x - Neutrik NC7FD-L-1-B  --  7 pin female panel mount D series XLR connector  (Redco.com) $9.32
1x - Neutrik NC7FX-B    --  7 pin cable mount female XLR connector (Redco.com) $12.88
1x - Neutrik NC7MD-L-1-B  -- 7 pin male panel mount D series XLR connector (Redco.com) $9.43
1x - Neutrik NC7MX-B  -- 7 pin male cable mount XLR connector (Redco.com) $6.26

8x - 2 pole 3.96mm pitch PCB mount screw time block terminal  -- (ebay) $1.00

3x 3M 929834-02-36  -- 36 pin 2.54mm pitch straight 1 row header (for rack XLR jumpers)  (Mouser part number 517-834-02-36) $5.04
33x FCI 63429-202LF  -- 2.54mm pitch shunt (gold plated)  (Mouser part number 649-63429-202LF) $4.95

Purchased complete official PSU parts kit from Jeff Steiger at http://www.classicapi.com including PSU case, heat sinks, components, and hookup wire.

PSU parts kit from ptownkid http://www.diypartssupply.com $55 + $15 shipping
7 conductor cable from mptownkid $3.00 NOTE: provided cable was 24 AWG.  I will not use this cable.

Replaced cable with Ancor Marine 541748 20AWG 8 conductor shielded signal cable purchased here http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=34969&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=10109&subdeptNum=10605&classNum=10610

Via http://www.apexjr.com/wire
16 AWG silver teflon hookup wire various colors for mains




Need to Order:

4x RAF 2100-440-AL-7 -- 440 thread 1/4" aluminum hex standoffs -- (Mouser 761-2100-440-AL-7)

5x Keystone Electronics 3049 -- #4 screw nylon shoulder washer (heatsink mounting) -- (Mouser part number 534-3049)
1x Kobiconn 161-R30148-E -- Power Entry Module -- (Mouser part number 161-R30148-E) $1.83

belden 5343FE 8 conductor shielded cable 18 AWG







(for PSU)
1x Vishay 2W01G-E4/51  -- BR1  -- Bridge rectifier -- (Mouser 625-2W01G-E4)  $.58
4x Shindengen D5SB80-7000  --  BR11, BR21, BR31, BR41 -- Bridge rectifier -- (Mouser 627-D5SB80-7000) $4.20

1x Texas Instruments TL783CKCSE3 -- IC1 -- 700mah linear regulator -- (Mouser 595-TL783CKCSE3)  $1.73
4x Fairchild Semiconductor LM350T -- IC11, IC21, IC31, IC41 -- 3A linear regulator adj. V -- (Mouser 512-LM350T) $3.32

5x Murata PV36W102C01B00 -- RV1, RV11, RV21, RV31, RV41 -- 1K trimmer resistor -- (Mouser 81-PV36W102C01B00) $4.42

20x AVX SR211C103KAR  -- C1, C2, C3, C4, C11, C12, C13, C14, C21, C22, C23, C24, C31, C32, C33, C34, C41, C42, C43, C44
                                      -- .01uf MLCC capacitor 100V 10% -- (Mouser 581-SR211C103KAR) $1.80
9x WIMA MKS2-.1/250/5 -- C9, C16, C19, C26, C29, C36, C39, C46, C49
                                      -- .1uf poly film capacitor 250V 5% -- (Mouser 505-MKS2.1/250/5) $4.50
4x Nichicon UPJ1V101MPD -- C17, C27, C37, C47 -- 100uF 35V Aluminum Electrolytic Cap 20% -- (Mouser 647-UPJ1V101MPD) $1.68
4x Nichicon UFW1H102MHD -- C18, C28, C38, C48 -- 1000uF 50V Aluminum Electrolytic Cap 20% -- (Mouser 647-UFW1H102MHD) $3.28
2x Nichicon UFW2A102MHD -- C6, C8 -- 1000uF 100V Aluminum Electrolytic Cap 20% -- (Mouser 647-UFW2A102MHD) $3.36
4x Nichicon LKG1H103MESCBK -- C15, C25, C35, C45 -- 10000uF 50V Aluminum Electrolytic Cap 20% -- (Mouser 647-LKG1H103MESCBK) $33.20

 

[chunger]

Everything seemed excessively well packed, and I went about seeing what I had.

I've heard that the rack PCB is thick, but in person, it's pretty impressive.

And, a power supply PCB as well for me.

The custom transformer looks massive, and righteously priced to boot.

And the little Neutrik connectors seem pretty trick.

3 bags of different type screws were included as well

A big 'ole table of full of confusion for me to try and sort out  ???

 

[chunger]

No instructions included, but I've shopped at IKEA before, so this shouldn't be impossible to figure out, right?

Turning the metal bits around a few times, I determined top and bottom panels are identical. . . The front side of the top and bottom panel have "a lot" of holes, and the back side has fewer.

The side panels have a series of 4 holes near the front face to mount the rack ears. . . so, having oriented myself as to which bits go where, I needed to figure out which screws go where.

These ones (larger with hex nuts in the baggie) go on the side panels and the rack ears.

Keeping in mind which side is front and which side is back, but easiest way I could see to start was on a corner like this:  (Notice the front side is face down in the picture. . . note on the larger metal (top and bottom pieces) there are fewer holes than on the back which is facing up than the front which is face down. . .and on the side piece, the 4 holes for the rack ears are down towards the white towel)

I installed one side with 4 screws installed completely loose so the pieces could still shift.  That way, I can leave slack for the other panels to align as I screw them together.

Other side. . . same routine.  4 screws loose.

These are the screws that fit on the back panel.  They also fit into the Neutrik connectors.

With the panels installed loosely, I can shift everything around until the holes of the back panel align.  I'm not putting all of the screws in yet.  . . just enough at the sides and particularly at the corners to align things.  I install these screws loosely as well for now.

The rack ears don't seem to effect the overall shape of the box, so I tighten those down right away using the larger screws that are bagged with the hex nuts.

One of my screws came a bit wonky. . . hopefully there are spared in the kit.

I had to go dig through my other ordered items because I wanted something to align the front side of the case before I tightened down the side and back screws to lock everything together.  I ordered 2 preamp kits from Jeff. . . well . . . because I don't have any 500 series modules, and as pretty as a box is, it'd be pretty boring by itself.

These Beveled screws are for the front module panels.

Since the face plates that Jeff supplied with his kits have beveled holes, I figure they would be self-aligning.  I went ahead and screwed 2 face plates in at the 2 edges of the case to align the front face.

With the front and back panels squaring up my box, I now tighten down the side panel screws to final torque and install all of the screws.

I may be totally wrong about this, but it seems to me the rack ears would bear the brunt of the load when this unit is mounted up, so I assumed the hex nuts are for the 8 rack ear screws.  I do not have a small enough socket set to install these, but if you have one of those screwdrivers with interchangeable bits, the nuts fit perfectly in the screwdriver's bit socket.

Box assembled. . . Humans win!

 

[3nity]

wouldnt be better to solder all the xlrs to pcb first? and for that take out the back panel?

 

[chunger]

wouldnt be better to solder all the xlrs to pcb first? and for that take out the back panel?

Probably. . . I figured I'd temporarily install the back panel to align the case though upon initial assembly.  I don't have all the screws in yet, and I read on the support thread that I would need to do some mounting, removal, and re-mounting to perfectly align all of the XLR connectors for soldering.

 

[dandeurloo]

yes do fit first then solder.  Its a few extra steps but it is the only way to be sure it will work in the end!

Good luck with it. You will love it once you finish.  I need another one already mine is almost full.

 

[chunger]

Couple of questions:

1.  Is it better to use the Amphenol 7 pin connectors or the Neutrik ones?  Or does it not matter?  Obviously we were not able to get the PCB mounted Neutrik ones that were originally intended.  If figure I'll just solder some wires to the jack.  Found the 7 pin Neutrik connectors at Redco, and am about to pull trigger on an order. . . or ptownkid has parts kit for the PSU as well as Amphenol connectors.  It seems the Neutrik ones are a little cheaper from Redco.

2.  What are a couple of options as far as power cable wire?  I'm guessing 8 conductor with shield and drain wire?

3.  What parts do I need to get to connect these jumpers?  And the jumpers themselve?

 

[zayance]

1. Amphenol or Neutrik same same, on my second rack i will go Neutrik, easier...
2. I went 7 Connector, could even be 6 if you connect GND and chassis together, just need to check the max voltage rating of the cable you'll choose.
3. From another post i think these would fit nicely, just cut them to the exact number, i've used normal ones and since the PCB is thick just inserted my solder tip inside the hole while applying solder, worked fine for me, seems you won't need to do this with those, but just for info:
http://fi.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=929834-02-36virtualkey51750000virtualkey517-834-02-36

An these are some Shunt/jumpers, pick your choice:
http://fi.mouser.com/Interconnects/Rectangular-Connectors/Headers-Wire-Housings/_/N-7aunt?P=1z0wxp7Z1z0wxp0Z1z0wxp6&Keyword=shunt&FS=True

EDIT: Watch the infos and the mounting method on this page.
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=37438.0

 

[grantlack]

I'd definitely include the headers, and it's a good idea to solder them before you stuff the neutriks. Trust me, I just had a go at them yesterday  :. Not impossible, just somewhat (and needlessly) awkward working around the back of the populated board. Any old electronics shop (radio shack, etc) should have them if you're feeling impatient, but you'll probably get them much cheaper if you order them with other parts from an online vendor.

 

[zayance]

I'd definitely include the headers, and it's a good idea to solder them before you stuff the neutriks. Trust me, I just had a go at them yesterday  . Not impossible, just somewhat (and needlessly) awkward working around the back of the populated board.

When getting into situations like this, and most of the time i use some modelling masking tape i have around (tamiya brand) 0.5mm large to keep the component in place while soldering, they stay sticky pretty long so i just use the same cutted piece for one same project even more....

 

[chunger]

Well, a bit more progress and a few more questions.

I started by placing the card slots.

Then figured out that there is a little bit of wiggle on them. . . no that it probably matters, but I tried to center the piece in the holes and the put something on the PCB to hold it tight while I soldered.

Now 10 more  ;D

Next I placed the Neutrik connectors is. .. they seem to have a pretty tight tension fit into the PCB.  I made sure to seat the connectors all the way to their stops.

Then, I fit the back panel on to align all the connectors. . . the top row was pretty tight.

Checking to verify that my connectors are still all seated fully to the PCB.

Then, I put all the Neutrik connector screws in.

Making sure to use these screws

Then, flip the whole thing over.

This is how the pins look from the back side.

And, soldered in.

That's where I stopped today.

I have a question about the power connector.  I have some D type Neutrik 7 pin sockets coming in the mail.  Is there a screw block I should get to put here?

Or should I solder the wires directly into the PCB?

I also have a few questions concerning the power supply parts. . . I started looking at putting together an order for all of the components, but being new to all of this, I'm leaning towards just buying the parts kit from ptownkid.

His kit does not include other parts needed to put together the PSU.  I was wondering what gauge and type of wire I should get and what colors will I need?  I just have a few colors of 22 gauge and 20 gauge silver teflon stranded wire.  For a clean, legible install, do I need to get all the colors that are on the transformer?  Switch part number?  A/C jack part number?  Fuse holders? Fuse values?  Resistors for LED's?  Is there a way to make a switch to allow 220V operation as well as 110V?

It looks like there was an update today from Cemal on the metal kit for the PSU, but I had assumed up until this point that it was not coming and I'd be on my own to put a functional 2u case together for it.  I guess I can wait and see what's included in that as well as ETA to the US, but in general, for mechanical installation of parts, I was wondering if someone could give me a list of things I should have on hand to mount PCB's, mount resistors to heat syncs, etc.

1.  What lengths of standoffs should I have on hand?  part numbers?
2.  What types of screws and nuts should I keep a supply of?
3.  Is there a tap and die set that goes well with those screws?
4.  Are there cable organizers other than nylon tie wraps that I should get?

Thought I'd try and consolidate some of my needed supplies to batch as much of it as I can in the same order.

 

[jsteiger]

Hey Chunger,

Nice progress. BTW, your pics look very nice. The page takes a bit to load but the pics are worth it.

Don't forget to handle the XLR pin 1. Without a connection, phantom power will not work as the shield will have no connection at the rack. The 48V needs a return path to complete the circuit. 3-pin headers and shunt jumpers can be used. It is easier IMHO to hard jumper all of the pin 1's from the XLR's to Gnd. I have a crappy pic I posted yesterday on the PSU help thread. These jumpers can be soldered from the card edge side so no need to take the back and all of those screws off! 

I just soldered jumper wires to the PCB for the power connector using the thru holes.

If you get the parts from PTown, make sure he is supplying the small package 1/2 watt resistors. He was gonna change those out a while back.

Cheers, Jeff

 

[[silent:arts]]

I like this thread.
We will link it to the 51xAudio.com site once we a through 8)

nice soldering job btw

 

[zayance]

Yes cool involvment from Chunger, I think the Alliance just found a nice Building thread with all the usefull and hard to get informations    , and builded by a starter so perfect  

 

[jsteiger]

Hey guys,

This is not Chunger's first rodeo for something like this. I mean the overall thread concept. You must check this out. He sent me this link a week or so ago when we were handling the transaction. This thread is unbelievable. So, grab a cup of coffee (or beer ;D) and enjoy.

http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=627147

Great detail pics there are well. 

Cheers, Jeff

 

[Ptownkid]

If you get the parts from PTown, make sure he is supplying the small package 1/2 watt resistors. He was gonna change those out a while back.

Shoot, that was something I forgot completely about...even though I made mine fit fine. I'm placing a digi order this week so I'll grab the smaller ones if it means something to people.

 

[jsteiger]

...even though I made mine fit fine...

I made them fit to. It was not the end of the world but some folks may not be as understanding. Just wanted to make sure they knew what was up that is all. 

 

[Ptownkid]

the secret is to put the middle one in first when there's 3 or more side by side

 

[chunger]

7 pin neutrik sockets and connectors are inbound from Redco.  It seemed more people are using this connector than the other options, so I figured I'd follow like a lemming.

http://www.redco.com/shopexd.asp?id=194

Also, I was having trouble finding 3.96mm pitch screw type connectors for the power inputs, so I ended up buying these on Ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120624612244&rvr_id=160618059845&crlp=1_263602_304642&UA=M*F%3F&GUID=6cdde63e1210a09c138645e6ffce9f20&itemid=120624612244&ff4=263602_304642

(Note: photo not mine. . . taken from Ebay auction)

We'll see if I use them on the rack side PCB and on the PSU side.  I figured if the 7 pin Neutrik power input socket is going to screw in from the outside of the metal case, I would not be able to separate the rack PCB from the back metal without de-soldering an expensive connector if I soldered the power wires directly to PCB.  . . also, if I used a Molex header type connector, it wouldn't fit through the metal either.  Guess it's a small detail, but I screw things up so I want to make it as easy as possible to take my unit apart for repairs if necessary.

One question answered. . . quite a few more to go before I have a working rack  ???

 

[canidoit]

Your pics look fantastic and your description are in laymans terms!

I think you will inspire people to build this unit.

All the best with your journey mate!