Newbie builds GroupDIY 51X rack

[chunger]

Working through parts list to purchase, and at this point, I'm already over the $55.00 ptownkid is charging for parts to populate the PSU board by a good margin, and I'm not done going through the list yet.  I'm probably needlessly spec'ing expensive parts, so at this point, I will order ptownkid's kit at http://www.diypartssupply.com but will continue to fill in my parts list as an exercise for my own learning.

Neutrik connectors are here. . . trying to figure out if I need to come up with a case solution or wait for the official metal to become available.

 

[chunger]

Thinking about power supply case and component mounting a bit.  I got my hands on a used heat sink that I think should work if I cut it in half and then use an aluminum "L" bracket.

In thinking about how to put things together, I'm thinking I will need to thread some holes.  Does anyone know if there are some specific tap and die sizes that I would need for this type of electronics installation?  Do the standard sets go small enough for this kind of work?  Or do I need to get a "jewler's" type set.  If i can get by using only 1 or 2 sizes, i'd rather just stock up on those specific sizes as opposed to buy a huge kit and end up only using 1 or 2. .  . but, if i need standard, metric, and various sizes to be in good shape in these small-scale metal tasks, i guess I'll just buy a set.

http://www.amazon.com/NEW-Screw-Plate-Jewelers-Watchmaker/dp/B000ZBVHJC/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1289336128&sr=8-1-spell

http://www.amazon.com/Gear-Wrench-3887-Piece-Combo/dp/B000HBDW48/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1289336645&sr=8-3

 

[zayance]

I think what is most often used for tapping is 4-40, maybe even 8-32 and M3-M4 even M2.5 if ou want to have some more, i use the ones that will do the tapping all in one, meaning you don't need three tools for doing so, something like this:
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/han8312.html
These ones are good for tapping thru metal, now if it's for tapping in blind holes then you need to use different ones that will push the cutted material out when tapping, it has kind of a  spiral end.

No need for jewelers tools here, but that looks like handy tools to have, never know.
One tool that i like for tapping is a tap wrench like this. For tapping holes it's good to use some lubricant.
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/han12002.html

I never used die, but i'd say in the same dimensions as the above would do.
That's my little experience.

 

[deuc224]

Im seriously liking this thread! Might sway me to get into the 51x.  ;D

 

[funkymonksf]

Is it possible to remove the metal backplane after soldering the xlrs to the 511 PCB? Also what did you end up using for 7 core cable?

P.S. great thread!

-Brice

 

[chunger]

Yes,  I took the back metal off after soldering.  Most people don't like to because of the number of screws, but it's no problem at all.  I purchased cable from ptownkid along with the his PSU parts kit.  Even though I'm using the Neutrik connectors instead of the amphenol ones that he sells, he has an option on his website to buy "extra" cable by the foot.  http://diypartssupply.com .

 

[chunger]

More parts have arrived. . . I didn't know what colors I needed for mains and power wiring so I just purchased all available colors.  I hope it'll work out.  I'm using 16 gauge silver teflon hookup wire.  I update the first post with parts I've ordered and sources.  The heat sink was from Ebay.  I figure I will have to cut it in half length-wise, and I should be ok to mount in a 2U rack.  I wanted vertical fins if I'm not using a fan to cool.

Over in the PSU support thread, someone posted part numbers which is very helpful.  Ptownkid has shipped my PSU parts, so I don't have to worry about that, but I do need to buy fuses, switches, etc. which is confusing to figure out for a 1st time project, but dig and the information is available  ;D

 

[grantlack]

wow, that pic is blinding!  play safe w/ that mains wiring... no running with wire cutters. 

 

[ptron]

wow chunger this is great thread and very big inspiration and encouragement for all of us noobs to do things right

;D

 

[jsteiger]

Indeed a beautiful rainbow of hook up wire Chunger. I Dig.  8)

 

[dandeurloo]

Im seriously liking this thread! Might sway me to get into the 51x.  ;D

Do it!

 

[SIXTYNINER]

CHUNGER
you are doing a "superb" work

 

[chunger]

Parts came in yesterday from Ptownkid. . .. I was so wiped out from supporting A/V events at work that I didn't get a chance to write anything up. .  . just take some stuff out of the boxes.

One thing that I was pretty not happy about was the 24AWG power connect cable provided. . . These are my main power rails.  I use 22 gauge when wiring bass guitar electronics and 24 gauge for pickups.  I'm not comfortable with 24 for my rack power, and I know the Neutrik strain relief sleeves can stretch to accommodate a thicker cable.  I want 20-18 AWG, so I will not be using this cable which sucks because I may have to buy a 1000 or 500 ft. reel.

I want my power to be robust because I'm thinking to use the 51x power supply to drive more than just what's in the rack, and was planning to put a "DC through" connector on the rack. . . better to over-spec on these foundational elements I think.

preliminary search points to a West Marine option that is available in short lengths:

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=34969&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=10109&subdeptNum=10605&classNum=10610

And a couple of Belden options:
6343FE  plenum type 8 conductor shielded 18AWG
5343FE  non-plenum type

no sources identified yet. . .

Alpha wire has some Uber expensive stuff...  

20AWG mouser option: 8772 0601000  $624.75 1000ft.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Belden-Wire-Cable/8772-0601000/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuPnr6I6Psi5SPaDwTuBJryyk5%252bmW87nZI%3d

If I do this, I'll have to figure out a way to recover the cost of the 980ft. I'll have extra.

One key decision I need to make now is whether I continue to wait for the official GDIY 51X metal to come to the US, or start the process of obtaining my own case.  It seems folks across the pond already have access to the official metal.  At any rate, I will have to come up with some more internal parts (A/C switches, jacks, LED's, fuse holders, fuses) before I can start building.  So I'll keep chugging away at this.

 

[zayance]

I've used this, i got it from Farnell tough.

http://www.newark.com/lapp-kabel/0015107/cable-ctrl-7-core-0-75mm-per-m/dp/67R9131?Ntt=0015107

EDIT: oops just saw the added fees for ordering, sorry, anyway can help some other folks maybe...

 

[chunger]

How critical is it for the power cable to be shielded?  If unshielded works fine, I have more options to pick from.

 

[zayance]

How critical is it for the power cable to be shielded?  If unshielded works fine, I have more options to pick from.

I've used unshielded for 1.5m IIRC no problem here, the Shielding is maybe better for very long runs....

 

[chunger]

found a source online for small quantities of angle aluminum. . . I'm going to buy an L-bracket 3"x4" and 8.5" length to mount my PCB on and then my heatsink on the side of.  . . excellent.

https://www.speedymetals.com/pc-2203-8344-3-x-4-x-14-angle-6061-t6-aluminum-extruded.aspx

Patience is wearing thin on the official 51X Alliance PSU metal kit shipping to the US.  I haven't heard anything new about progress on that front even though I've been keeping a close eye on the thread for any new developments, so I think I'm going to order a 2U 8" depth rack enclosure from parmetal and then send the front panel in to Chae H Ham from the White Market for laser engraving. . . then drill my front panel holes myself.  Should work in theory.  I know the GroupDIY crew might want detailed assembly info available for their official metal kit, so please contact me if parts/kits will be available shortly!  The other issue for me is many of the parts specified for the official metal are not coming up through the usual suppliers in the US (fuse holders, mains switch, etc.), so if full kits aren't coming, I may be better off drilling holes for parts I can easily get.

So, I'm not going to stuff the PSU board yet because I may need the PCB unpopulated to center-punch holes for drilling and mounting.  Best to gather all of the parts I need before assembling especially if I don't know what the specific assembly procedure will be.

 

[kepeb]

hey chunger.
nice work on the build threads, good to get a closer look at the api kits too.
also nice to get some questions about the cabling answered, i have been waiting on a response there for a couple months. i know nothing about trailing lengths of DC power around.

keep it up dude.
maybe a nice review/comparison of all your lovely new modules when you finish too!

 

[chunger]

Purchased 20-8 cable from Westmarine.  I feel less shaky about this than the 24-8 cable in the diypartssupply kit  .

I would have been more comfortable with 18-20, but couldn't find a good source.  Westmarine charges $4.95 flat rate shipping as well which is way cooler than what lot of electronics suppliers charge.  Plus, if I decide to use my GDIY 51X rack in a Maritime application, I'll rest easy knowing my power cable is rated for salt-water environments  

 

[Ptownkid]

Is it physical size or rating that you are concerned about on the cable...that 24awg is rated at 300V and will carry the load perfectly fine in short runs.