Newbie questions on Peter C's Green Pre

[shaddai]

I'm a newbie too, and I love some of PRR's analogies.

No-Start? Could be a dozen things. Which ones? Which to check first? Here is where experience counts: if an old Ford won't crank, but will honk, smack the thingie on the inner fender. There is no school for that except "Standing and cursing in the cold" University.

I've always got them started with a crescent wrench. #1 take the wrench and whack it seriously hard on the startermabopper. #2, smack it on the shiny square dealio on the front of carb, and #3, smack the shiny part of the round dooseymajoosey behind the air filter.

Just for clarification, "the thingie" on the inner fender is technically called the voltage regulator & will only help start it again after you shut it off. Sheesh...you'd think the electronic nuts in here would know what it's called.. :green:

Todd

 

[jcharles00]

ok. i'm cool with the cap tolerances now, but i'm still confused as far as knowing which ones go where.

i've got this schematic: http://www.mendelt.nl/greenpre_V14/_Green_trim_HPF%20CCT.gif

and this BOM:
http://www.mendelt.nl/greenpre_V14/_Green%20V14%20bom.xls

and i'm still not getting it. the BOM only states "good", "good(wima)", or "any" as far as grades or tolerances, and none of the numbers work out to parts I have. as well, the BOM references part numbers (like C33) that i just can't find on this schematic (which appears to be some kind of test setup, but it's all i can find)

the schematic also shows 6 of 63V version of the 47uF cap, but my parts kit only has 3...


do i have the wrong documents or something? i know i'm surely doing something wrong since so many people have completed this project before me.

 

[matta]

jcharles00,

The boards are silkscreened with the values on them... it should be pretty much plug and play.

Just make sure you know where the 63V caps go. It is easy to work out since you need them where there is chance of them getting a heavy voltage, and since the heavest volatge is +-48V, it makes sense they will on the phantom rail/path.

If you have doubts you can always put in 63V rated caps in all the places needing that value.

Frank did a much easier to read overlay which can be downloaded here: http://www.nrgrecording.de/green_pre.pdf

RE grades and tolerances, well most use 1/4Watt 1% Metal films for Resistors and caps are not that big a deal RE the tolerances, stick to WIMA's, Epcos etc for Polys and you will be fine.

Cheers

Matt

 

[jcharles00]

[quote author="matta"]jcharles00,

The boards are silkscreened with the values on them... it should be pretty much plug and play.

Just make sure you know where the 63V caps go. It is easy to work out since you need them where there is chance of them getting a heavy voltage, and since the heavest volatge is +-48V, it makes sense they will on the phantom rail/path.

If you have doubts you can always put in 63V rated caps in all the places needing that value.

Frank did a much easier to read overlay which can be downloaded here: http://www.nrgrecording.de/green_pre.pdf

RE grades and tolerances, well most use 1/4Watt 1% Metal films for Resistors and caps are not that big a deal RE the tolerances, stick to WIMA's, Epcos etc for Polys and you will be fine.

Cheers

Matt[/quote]

hey matt,
thanks for the reply.

to this point i did use the boards screen for plug n play, as it were. this is the dilemma though - i have 3 flavors of .1uF caps: 5%, 10% and 20%. this info isn't on the screen, and i'm assuming it's relevant. they all look the same in everyone elses photos, and i can't seem to find a schematic that looks correct, so it's difficult to even try and guess where i should put them.

(btw, i did get the issue with the 63V electro's figured out with bryans help)

 

[peterc]

i have 3 flavors of .1uF caps: 5%, 10% and 20%.

Wont make any difference, you can use them anywhere.

Peter

 

[jcharles00]

[quote author="peterc"]

i have 3 flavors of .1uF caps: 5%, 10% and 20%.

Wont make any difference, you can use them anywhere.

Peter[/quote]

thanks peter!

 

[matta]

jcharles00,

Glad you got it all sorted! I'm was tying to indicate in my previous post that the cap tolerances won't make a difference. Peter's answer was easy to understand, LOL!!!

Let us know how you progress... I am about to start another 4!

Cheers

Matt

 

[Ptownkid]

I'm still a tad lost on the whole 3 values of 0.1 uF caps thing.....

You should have 10 of the poly 100nF's
4 of the same value but in monolithic ceramic, which were in a baggie labled 0.1nF
1 - 1nF poly

and then possibly another 4 poly caps for the psu that would have been in a seperate bag all-together.

Either way, most of the guys on here will not mind answering question, but please send em to me first as I feel it is my responsiblity to help you.

Cheers

 

[jcharles00]

[quote author="Ptownkid"]I'm still a tad lost on the whole 3 values of 0.1 uF caps thing.....

You should have 10 of the poly 100nF's
4 of the same value but in monolithic ceramic, which were in a baggie labled 0.1nF
1 - 1nF poly

and then possibly another 4 poly caps for the psu that would have been in a seperate bag all-together.

Either way, most of the guys on here will not mind answering question, but please send em to me first as I feel it is my responsiblity to help you.

Cheers[/quote]

Hey Bryan,
I did have 10 of the poly 100nF (.1uF) total, but they were different tolerences.. from that chart you sent me above, 5, 10, and 20%. i assumed that they were this way on purpose, but ended up following peters advice that it didn't matter. i had no confusion with the ceramics, and once you showed me your photo, the electros made sense as well. (everyone elses 63V 47uF electros looked just like the lower voltage ones, so i couldn't tell)

 

[strahl]

I'm just finishing my first green pre and I'm getting som strange voltages at IC 4. I get this without the TL074:
1. -0,47
2. -0,59
3. 0
4. 15,05
5. 0,00
6. -0,63
7. -0,48
8. 0,00
9. 0,00
10. -0,64
11. -15,20
12. 0,00
13. 0,00
14. 0,00

pin 1,2, 6 and 7 should not get a minus voltage if I'm reading Peters "_Green voltages.rtf". All the other voltages are oki.
Any idea to what I've done wrong?!

 

[Ptownkid]

That document only refers to the ne5532's

 

[strahl]

I've got one that describes the two 14pins aswell, the TL074 and LM339. but its only voltages for without the TL074 and LM339 connected.

 

[Ptownkid]

Can you send me that, or show me a link...

 

[strahl]

drop me a email and I'll send it to you...

 

[Phrazemaster]

Hi gang, I hope it's ok to ressurect this aging post, but since my questions are very basic I figured I might as well put them here.

I am trying to understand what's the best way to do the connections for the PSU to the 4 PCBs I've got on order with Peter. In the pix Peter sent me (thank-you Peter!) I see a set of 3 pins which I believe connect to the power xformer (sorry I don't have these posted online or I'd put them in here). I am wondering what sort of part these are? I did a search on mouser for "PCB Pins" and just got a morass of confusing results. It also looks like there are short wires with connectors connecting to those three pins coming from the xformer. What sort of pins/wire connectors are these?

Another question is about the connection from the PSU to the individual PCB's. In the pix from Peter the PSU board has 4 terminal block screws. In another pix from him (and other pix I saw elsewhere) there appears to be a different type of connector, something like a 4-pin molex conn. Which is better, and does anyone have a part# for any of these items? I tried to measure the pins on the PSU pix from peter in my drawing program, but the measurements wouldn't come out right, so I couldn't tell if the pin spacings were 3.81 or 5mm or what.

Sorry if this is a rambling mass, just trying to get the right parts.

Thanks for any help everyone. I'm sure this is the first of many other q's I'll have, and yes I have been poring over the green meta and using the famous Search function.

Mike[/img]

 

[Godders]

Hi Mike, there is a general 'all thing green' help thread. Peter (and others) may well answer you here but he's more likely to answer you in there.

http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=5839

Cheers

Nick

 

[Phrazemaster]

Hi Godders, thanks I'll repost it in the other thread.

 

[SNG]

ok. i'm cool with the cap tolerances now, but i'm still confused as far as knowing which ones go where.

i've got this schematic: http://www.mendelt.nl/greenpre_V14/_Green_trim_HPF%20CCT.gif

and this BOM:
http://www.mendelt.nl/greenpre_V14/_Green%20V14%20bom.xls

and i'm still not getting it. the BOM only states "good", "good(wima)", or "any"  as far as grades or tolerances, and none of the numbers work out to parts I have. as well, the BOM references part numbers (like C33) that i just can't find on this schematic (which appears to be some kind of test setup, but it's all i can find)

the schematic also shows 6 of 63V version of the 47uF cap, but my parts kit only has 3...


do i have the wrong documents or something? i know i'm surely doing something wrong since so many people have completed this project before me.

Have the same issues. Downloaded the schematic, the BOM and the PCB layout... and they have all different connections...

When I see this picture...

I notice some resistors on spots which are not located on the PCB in silk screen or schematic...

is this the right schematic?  ???

Don't expect it because they have both different parts. The BOM has 14 x 47uF caps and this schematic only 7. The C15 in the schematic is 10 uF, in the PCB layout overlay 47 uF... Zener diodes in layout and BOm are 20V, in the schematic listed as 15V.

Wondering which schematic is the right one for this PCB layout??? Don't like to build blindfolded a PCB without a schematic...  ;D

This all is very confusing for someone who want to start to build a green pre...