Noob needs help with z5600a II mic repair

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Hooray - the microphone is working, no weird sounds, buzzing or noises. It is too late to really test it, the house is asleep, haha. But, I am very satisfied that it didn’t blow up! I will test the power supply, pattern dial etc. one of the coming days. Success
 
Also make sure of the polarity of the front and rear diaphragm wires - are they the same colour?

They are the same color, but I wired it as it was before. I cannot speak into the mic now, because it is too late, but it reacts to mouth sounds and finger-noise well, however I do feel there is too much sound picked up from the back, but I cannot tell until tomorrow for sure.
 
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They are the same color, but I wired it as it was before. I cannot speak into the mic now, because it is too late, but it reacts to mouth sounds and finger-noise well, however I do feel there is too much sound picked up from the back, but I cannot tell until tomorrow for sure.
There is every possibility that the previous bad work done on this had the capsule wired back to front. In Cardioid position you should get very little from the rear and full bodied sound from the front - could explain why it sounded bad if it was reversed. Figure 8 and Omni you wouldn’t know the difference.
 
There is every possibility that the previous bad work done on this had the capsule wired back to front. In Cardioid position you should get very little from the rear and full bodied sound from the front - could explain why it sounded bad if it was reversed. Figure 8 and Omni you wouldn’t know the difference.
Okay, still haven't had time to play around, but a quick test of the patterns reveal that there is more volume on the right than the left side both in cardioid and in full omni, capsule seems to be wired correctly as the front is louder than the back... there is however still a lot of sound from the back in cardiod as well... hmmm. Is this the resistors on the dial that need changing as you mentioned before, maybe the psu that needs full recaping too?
 
Okay, still haven't had time to play around, but a quick test of the patterns reveal that there is more volume on the right than the left side both in cardioid and in full omni, capsule seems to be wired correctly as the front is louder than the back... there is however still a lot of sound from the back in cardiod as well... hmmm. Is this the resistors on the dial that need changing as you mentioned before, maybe the psu that needs full recaping too?
More volume from the right compared to the left would indicate the basket/capsule alignment is out ie. the capsule is not facing front/rear or something is interrupting the direct sound reaching one side of the front diaphragm.
Have you had the case top apart? If so you may have misaligned the components on reassembly. If not you need to open it up and check - someone may have had this apart before you. The chassis/basket to capsule alignment must be correct or your left side will be different to the right and you’ll get spill or reflected sound from the rear. Faulty capacitors or resistors will not make left different to right in any mode - only front different to rear incorrectly. If the capsule is pointing off axis, or if there is an inner mesh that has solid sides/joints that does not have the solid pointing East/West to the capsule front axis you will get internal reflection off those solid sides (I don’t know if there is a second internal grille basket or not - hard to see from your photos). The solid sides of the housing should line up with the left/right axis of the capsule and with any joins in the pop-filter mesh.
I recently had a mic in for repair and this had an inner mesh that was out of alignment - the join in the mesh was facing the rear instead of being in line with the solid side posts causing Omni and Figure 8 to sound muffled at the rear. Tiny thing that causes huge difference.
Next is voltage checks, first in the PSU and then at the mic end of the cable:
In cardioid the rear element is technically “off” as it should be at the same voltage as the backplate ie. 60V. You need to open up the power supply and check you are getting 60V, 120V and 180V across the 1st, 2nd and 3rd Zeners with respect to ground. Best to measure directly across the pattern switch resistor chain for the first 2 with the switch set in the middle at Cardioid - you should see 60V at the centre pole and 120V at the top of the switch and then check B+ 180V at pin 1 of the cable outlet.
Then check that the voltage climbs with each step of the switch from Omni (0V) through to Cardioid (60V) to Figure 8 (120V) by attaching the “+” meter probe to the wiper of the switch and the “-“ to the bottom (ground). Do this at the PSU - no good checking further down the chain until you know this is correct.
In Omni the rear diaphragm is brought by the pattern switch to identical potential with respect to the backplate as the front diaphragm - they are both now at ground potential - however the rear diaphragm is fed by a high value resistance so you can’t measure this voltage at the diaphragm- only at the switch wiper and then the cable input to the mic - unless your meter is really high impedance in high DC volts range as the diaphragm is fed by a 51MΩ resistance. The backplate is held at 60V by an even higher resistance chain so you can only check your cable continuity and series resistors until you get to the 1GΩ resistor in the mic.
So if all PSU voltages are correct then you need to measure voltages at the cable termination at the mic end. You should get a steady 60V on pin 4 of the cable coming into the mic, you should get your rising voltage from Omni through Figure 8 (0 - 120V) on pin 3 of the cable into the mic. You should get 180V on pin 1.
 
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If your PSU pattern switch voltages are not correct you may hav a faulty Zener diode or leaky electrolytic capacitor associated with the pattern switch centre pole (not the wiper - I can’t read the cap number or value off the fuzzy schematic for the PSU).
If the centre position switch voltage is correct with the PSU not connected to the mic and incorrect at the centre pole when connected to the mic you may have put in the filter capacitor from the 60V line in round the wrong way round on the mic board. 1uF 400V. Check your electrolytic polarities.
 
If your PSU pattern switch voltages are not correct you may hav a faulty Zener diode or leaky electrolytic capacitor associated with the pattern switch centre pole (not the wiper - I can’t read the cap number or value off the fuzzy schematic for the PSU).
If the centre position switch voltage is correct with the PSU not connected to the mic and incorrect at the centre pole when connected to the mic you may have put in the filter capacitor from the 60V line in round the wrong way round on the mic board. 1uF 400V. Check your electrolytic polarities.
Will run through all this one of the coming days! Thanks a lot 🙏
 
I took another look at the photo of your cleaned board and it looks like there is definitely a second mesh screen inside the outer cage. I’d be taking a look inside the mic top and making sure the join/overlap of the mesh occurs at the side of the mic in line with one of the frame posts.
 
I took another look at the photo of your cleaned board and it looks like there is definitely a second mesh screen inside the outer cage. I’d be taking a look inside the mic top and making sure the join/overlap of the mesh occurs at the side of the mic in line with one of the frame posts.
I have yet to measure inside the PSU, but I got a new cable now and the microphone really sounds great overall, dwarfs the NT2A in capturing the voice - will try and record my girlfriend singing something later this week and upload it here.
 

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