Biasrocks said:JessJackson said:And The Reds
Those readings seem quite high.
Your secondary would present a load of well over 600 ohms to the mic pre, that should normally be around 200 ohms.
Primary would be well over 30K. Doesn't seem right.
What frequency does your meter use for DCR?
Do you have the specs for that transformer?
Regards,
Mark
chunger said:Let's get some nice custom headbaskets on those mics! The factory begins volume production on Monday.
HellfireStudios said:chunger said:Let's get some nice custom headbaskets on those mics! The factory begins volume production on Monday.
How do I pre-order?
JessJackson said:Strange things this end,
Just finished the build.
Mic Connected:
Bias and Heater are spot on (although heater adj is VERY sensitive)
Im getting 160v on b+... B+ Adj doesn't seem to be doing much but lowering by the decimal. I am able to get it down to about 158v
Out the wall I have 121v, After the PS Xformer Im getting 225v and 10.3v
Any Thoughts?
KMB-AUDIO said:Hi guys,
I received my two kits on Friday! Starting on the power supplies tonight.
I've read through this thread and am curious about the 0 Ohm "resistor". What is the difference between using this jumper and bare wire?
Matador said:JessJackson said:Strange things this end,
Just finished the build.
Mic Connected:
Bias and Heater are spot on (although heater adj is VERY sensitive)
Im getting 160v on b+... B+ Adj doesn't seem to be doing much but lowering by the decimal. I am able to get it down to about 158v
Out the wall I have 121v, After the PS Xformer Im getting 225v and 10.3v
Any Thoughts?
Is this with the mike connected? What tube are you using?
JessJackson said:Yes with mic connected...
Without is 195v B+
Using stock tube... i have other GE 5 star nos tubes but I don't want to damage them.
Matador said:JessJackson said:Yes with mic connected...
Without is 195v B+
Using stock tube... i have other GE 5 star nos tubes but I don't want to damage them.
The stock 12AX7 pulls less current than a 6072A under the same bias conditions: this can be seen on the tube plate curves. If you want to run the mike with that tube, the series pass resistors (91K) need to be increased. Lowering the grid bias down to -0.2V also helps the tube draw more current.
The 180K resistor from B+ to ground right at the 7-pin XLR output jack is the best test to do for getting things right before a real 6072A goes in.
Matador said:The capsule plays no part in the tube current and switching it won't matter.
It looks like the variance is much higher on these tubes than the data sheets imply: can you increase the bias voltage up to -0.5 volts (as measured at the PSU, not right at the tube grid) and see if you can observe B+ lower down to 120V?
chunger said:I may be stating the obvious, but are all of the trimmer pot values verified and installed in the correct positions? Seems odd that the B+ would only have a few volts of adjustment range regardless of where the final voltage lands . . . and that the bias adjustment would be very touchy as that was quite a gradual change on my sample build per turn of the pot.
JessJackson said:chunger said:I may be stating the obvious, but are all of the trimmer pot values verified and installed in the correct positions? Seems odd that the B+ would only have a few volts of adjustment range regardless of where the final voltage lands . . . and that the bias adjustment would be very touchy as that was quite a gradual change on my sample build per turn of the pot.
omg.. i'm a dickhead for this but I thought all Adj pots were the same value.. simple mistake..
In Bias I have installed W502
In B+ I have installed W202
In Heater I have installed W104
Is there an easy way to remove these components because I'm having real difficulties desoldering the three legs at the same time.
Cheers
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