68K for R1 and R2 was the best balance for most common tube types intended for this circuit (notably 6072A and 12AT7), when factoring the B+ pot set to mid-value (e.g. 50K). If you can't get it lower than 150V it means the tube isn't idling at high enough quiescent current. You can increase the current by lowering the bias voltage (e.g., move it from -1V to -0.5V), but that will diminish headroom and increase distortion somewhat.
Given the passive nature of the PSU, it is completely reliant on the tube idling somewhere near the middle of the design point in order to establish the proper working voltage. Tubes in generally aren't exactly 'tight tolerance', so some fudging may be in order. If you say it trims right with 200K resistive load (or 120V/200K = 0.6mA), that's pretty close to the 0.75mA that a typical 6072A draws at -1V bias.
If I were you, I'd swap in the intended tube, but leave the beater capsule in there. You should be able to trim all of the correct voltages, and the capsule (being a capacitor) doesn't change any of the working DC voltages in this circuit (unless it's defective).
If you really want to make it trim out correctly with this particular tube, you'll need to increase the value of R1, R2, or both, to lower B+ down, but keep in mind that you may have to re-adjust them again when the final tube is installed.