I'll do you one better. Here's the layout:
View attachment 124216
"X1/P-" at the bottom means "XLR Pin 1 and transformer Primary -." You can figure out the rest. The blue line is just used to show that it doesn't intersect the gray lines it crosses. All touching gray lines do connect.
Here's the BOM. Part names somewhat match the original U87 schematic for reference. Tweak to taste:
R7: 1G
R8: 1M
R9: 7k3
R10: 25K Trimmer
R12: 47k
R13: 330k
R14: 10k
R15: 300k
R16: 56k (for 24V zener, try 47k for 33V zener)
R18 & R19: 2k2 (closely matched!)
C5: 33n (can go as big as 330n if you want more low-end)
C6: 220p (treble cap - smaller = more treble, bigger = darker)
C7: 1u (can tweak to taste. smaller = less bass)
C8: 20u 6v
C9: 470n
C10: 4u7 35V
C11: 4u7 63V
C12: 10u 63V
C13: 10n
Q1: 2N3819
GR1: 1N4749A (24V zener - can try 33V instead with smaller R16)
Tie the XLR Pin 1 to the ground tab on the XLR connector. Film caps should be at least 63V. Use teflon-insulated pins for the capsule connections and keep those junctions "in the air." The board needs to be about 38mmx80mm. Careful not to short to the rails (I used electrical tape to insulate behind the board). Any K67/K87 type capsule should work. Any 8:1 through 12:1 OT should work.
Experiment!