Orange 86 Build Thread - no PCBs for sale

[kato]

Hi All.
I'm looking for the BOM, It doesn't seem to be in the build docs I have. Also I need the Values on the board. Sorry if this is a stupid request but I've looked everywhere and cant find them
thanks Joe

Parts list is in the latest version of the build docs but it's in MS Excel format. If you don't have Excel, you can see this online version.

edit: online link fixed (?)
note: best to view in excel if possible; the calculators won't work in converted versions.

 

[mrvision]

has anyone finished this project yet? any comments about sound? sound clips?

Teasing pictures?  ;D

 

[guavatone]

http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=40227.0

Searching is fun  
;D ;D ;D ;D

 

[kambo]

how come i cant open this link  ???

EDIT :


guavatone :

take that bloddy "a" in your link.. God Sake  ;D
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.pahp?topic=40227.0

index.pahp ==== index.php

 

[kato]

there's an extra "a" in the URL. try:
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=40227.0

it's not only fun, it's essential around here. 

 

[imo]

Charlie,
I hope this finds you well. Just returned from a long tour and trying to get my DIY projects done and done!
When i left i had the preamp working well. I cobbled together a 24/48v power supply to do phantom and relay switching.
I first tried to implement the DI before trying to include the other parts. i have hit a bit of a roadblock.
I have stuffed the DI board with R1, both diodes, R4, R2 and the LED. I have bypassed R2, Sw A to Sw B, and C2( as per the instructions if not using the pad)
the connections are all correct from the DI board to the main board (tested). I am getting a solid 24v to the relay power. However whenever i connect the relay power to the main board, i can only get DI, whether a 1/4 inch is plugged in or not. If i disconnect the power the relay opens to the input transformer and works as before. Are there any glaring mistakes? The relay is 24v, i can't imagine the transistor is shot, so before i start tearing it apart, i would welcome any suggestions since you know the circuit.
thanks
Ian

 

[guavatone]

On the DI PCB the only parts needed are R4 and D1 and D2.  R3 is not needed since there should be a 1M  from input to ground right near V1.  It sounds like you have a short from ground to the "ring/relay switch" labeled on the DI schem and labeled "ring" on the PCB.  Find the short, fix it and you should be good.  Similar to stompboxes except it uses a relay. 

Please let me know how you make out.

 

[imo]

Thanks for the reply.
I had actually already checked for shorts from the DI board to the main board and found none. This was reconfirmed tonight.
I did a little poking around tonight to see what i could find.
--With nothing plugged into the DI jack I had:
19.65 on the 560 collector(and on DI ind. and relay +)
23 on the base
23.6 on the collector
20.6 on the ring

With a 1/4" plugged into the DI jack i get:
23.6 on the collector(DI ind. and relay)
ring goes down to 0.

I was able to get the relay to flip by shorting the ring to the DI ind, however i also killed the transistor in my joy in hearing the click..

any ideas on an obvious prob?
I'm a little confused by that part of the circuit. If you feel like explaining what is supposed to be happening to get the relay to flip that would be a bonus!
Thanks
Ian

 

[guavatone]

Excuse the brief explanation... Basically when the circuit sees ground on the other end of R25 to the base, current is allowed to flow from the emitter to the collector and then to flip the relay.

what is the amp rating on your relay? Are you using the recommended one?
Are you sure R24 and R25 are correct values?

What is your relay ctk voltage with it unconnected?

The problem is that it is stuck in the flipped position.  We need to figure out how to "un flip" the relay.

 

[imo]

The voltage with the DI pcb plugged in, and a 1/4" is 19.6 as per the last post; it comes off the collector.
If i pull the DI pcb off, the relay flips back and the circuit works from the input transformer,  i also tried applying voltage directly to the relay and it works fine.
R24 and R25 are correct values.
Here is exactly how i have the Di PCB configured:
I have the 2 zeners and R4, as well as the LED(lights when the DI circuit is plugged in)
I have jumpers from SW1A to SW1B, bypassing C2, and bypassing R2. This is per the build instructions for bypassing the PAD.
Obviously something is allowing current to the transistor through the DI pcb and putting 19v on the relay.
Is it something in the PAD "bypass" circuit?

 

[guavatone]

Can you measure the resistance from ring on the DI PCB to GND?
Maybe there isn't a short, but a deceptive short with some resistance.

Some of those solder points are very easy to mistakenly bridge a connection.
ie. Ring is very close to GND on the .1" connectors.

 

[imo]

I was looking at some DI schematics like yours( the API BO Hansen model), and saw the 10k, .1U series. I went ahead and put that back in and the relay is working. It wasn't part of the pad circuit so i didn't understand why it would be removed if not using the pad in your build directions.
Anyway, putting those 2 pieces in and, of course, taking out the R2 and C2 bypass, got me a working DI/mic pre.
I will measure the ring to ground again, but don't we need that bypass cap in there regardless? I think that is where the voltage was coming from..

Also, i'm assuming I could sub 24v relays for the places where you have 12v. I made a homebrew simple 24/48v supply for those
Ian

 

[guavatone]

I am confused how you got it working.  

For the 24V relay, just use the correct value resistors.  The ones that are used on the preamp PCB, R24 and R25. 
In other words, just change R3 to 130K on the Polarity PCB and you should be good as long as you have enough
Amps for 4 24V relays. 

The same can be done if one wanted to use 4 12V relays.  You would just change R25 to 47K on the preamp PCB.

 

[imo]

the relay changes make sense. Thanks.
So for the sake of knowledge, don't we need the 10k series and cap with this design? Also, does it matter if the 1m load resistor is downstream of the cap?

 

[guavatone]

No you don't need the 10K or the coupling cap. That's why I was curious if the problem was really fixed.
The 10K Resistor is OK since it will not do much. But I always prefer less capacitors whenever possible
in the signal path.

Yes its absolutely fine to have the 1M load resistor near the tube.  It's actually preferable to have that resistor
as close to the grid of the tube as possible, which is why it's less than an inch away on the PCB.

I included all these extras in case people wanted to use the PCB for other projects that called for these
extra components.

 

[ethervalve]

Hi,
I know the BOM recommends a 14" deep 2-RU box for a pair with e88cc output drivers, but do you reckon a 12" deep enclosure would be close enough? I could save a lot of money if I could go with this box:
http://www.rpelectronics.com/rc-u2-12-chassis-box-2-space-3-5-x-12.html
or even:
http://www.rpelectronics.com/rc-u3-12-chassis-box-3-space-5-25-x-12.html
if mounting the power transformer is a possibility (I decided to go with the recommended Edcor XPWR097-120/240 and DC on the heaters).
-Thanks

Also: I checked out the pics of Holger's great looking build, but how's everyone else coming along? Anyone done?

 

[pacemaker]

Hi Guys,
i am still in the slow process of building this preamp,
and learning electronics,
I have the PSU boards, i'm using DC heater and suggested EDCOR XPWR097
i'm trying to understand a few things :
-what's the purpose of the power link ?
is that for tweaking or powering LEDs or something ?
-while seeing Jdbakker post on page 1 about D12 and D14
i was wondering if J2 and J3 need to be linked or not ?
-with the suggested hammond transformer
and 24v relays, i assume i have to use the voltage doubler and not tripler right ?
-are the 1/2W 100R from heater to Star Ground needed for DC heater  ?
if needed , should i put them on the PSU pcb from the LT transformer secondary to star ground
or on the preamp PCB ?
-You also suggested to wire EF86's pins 2 and 7 to ground , is this for both DC and AC heater or only AC ?
thanks for your help,
regards,
francois

 

[pacemaker]

anyone ?

 

[Nele]

Just these two... rest later..

-what's the purpose of the power link ?

If I see it correctly it is for connecting the B+ of one board to the other, thus giving you the option of using one B+ powersupply for two boards. You might have to update some components though.

-are the 1/2W 100R from heater to Star Ground needed for DC heater  ?

No, only for AC heater

 

[pacemaker]

Ok thanks for your answers nele,
As this PCB has several options and ways of wiring,
i just wanted to be sure and not just guessing,
I will be patient for the other questions....
regards,
Francois