Peavey Classic 30

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Peavey had custom (or sem-custom) pots and jacks designed to work in (IIRC) .950" height. The pots were called "spider" pots and the 1/4" jacks "hi-D"  (don't know why they were called that).

I am not sure any off the shelf generic parts are available using that spacing. So design might be even more from scratch.

JR 
 
Spider pots are here:

https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/potentiometers_0?filters=Brand%3DPeavey

Perhaps not all in the values you want...But they are at least out there to an extent.  Since you're doing your own thing, you could pretty much use whatever pots will fit.  The size of the bushings for the original pots limits you though if you don't want to break out the drill.  The input jack isn't a big concern  as I'd just wire that straight to the main PCB.  The switches are problematic, but I guess you could do a panel mount pushbutton or toggle.

The Classic 30 gives you a channel switching amp with a shared tone-stack, "boost" and reverb. 

The holes you have to work with are:

Input jack
"Normal" volume
Channel switch
"Pre" and "Post" gains for the "crunch" channel
"Reverb"
"Bass Mid (boost switch) Treble"
Then an FX loop.

So where would you take it and yet minimize the molestation to the chassis (as in...Don't add holes and attempt to keep the controls making sense).

With the EL84's the obvious choice would be something Vox-ish.  What controls/ features would you have?
Maybe a Trainwreck style circuit with tremolo (replacing pre/post controls) and reverb.

What would you want it to be?
 
build a VOX AC-15 circuit, use orange writing Bugle Boy 6BQ5's from Holland, be prepared to spend 100 ea for the real tubes, worth every penny, use the output transformer from a Fisher 6BQ5 based stereo tuner, use two 12 inch speakers, a Jensen alnico and a celestion bass speaker, it will blow away any classic 30 out there,

got another 30 on the bench, same thing, one tube out of four gets cooked medium well, so adding screen resistor for the two tubes without plus orange drop tone caps,

 
Ya know, I found that the classic 30 was a slight pain to disassemble and I have the classic 30 hum right now.  Turn it on, nothing plugged in, first hear the transformer humming (not loud though) then hum through the speaker and nothing plugged in.  I upgraded the filter caps (one of the 22UF's was completely dead), put it all back together...Yep...hum still there.  Question:  I've seen a lot about the jumpers breaking.  What kind of wire do you use to replace them?

Disclosure, this amp was a pawn shop find for 150 bucks.  It came with a blown speaker which has been replaced with a Celestion G12H, New Filter Caps, A new matched quad of EL34's, and  New preamp tubes V1-Mullard, V2 Ruby, V3 Sovtek all 12ax7's.

Any advice on where to look?....I've gone through the threads and see enough stuff pointing to the jumpers to try that next.

Thanks Paul
 
remove the power tubes and check all your power supply voltages, B+, and preamp voltages, so start with square one, verify power supply,
 

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