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lofi

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 27, 2006
Messages
852
Location
Bolton, UK,
friend of mine plays bass, he wants to split his signal to have a parallel effects loop so he can have one set off effects in line 1 and another in line 2, then hit, stomp and tweak to his hearts content without worry.

say a sub oct and distortion in line one playing all the time as he messes with line two effects.

where should I start looking?

respect and regards (as well as apologies for the newbie question)

Iain
 
DIY solution or ready made ?

If it's the latter, BOSS LS-2 or Ibanez LS-10.

Maybe the guys designing in Germany & producing in China have a plastic interpretation as well.

But do get the LS-2, it's more versatile & sturdy than the LS-10, pretty much a Swiss army knife.

Like: it can also be configured for a blend of the loops. Another trick is then (espec. nice for bass) that you leave one loop empty, insert a overdrive or something in the other loop & select the blend. You get clean & FX. (Take care your FX doesn't invert the polarity for this.) 

Bye,

  Peter


/ oops Dave, only saw after hitting send that you've made the same suggestion  ;)
 
If it can be built for a smallish price then I would quite like to produce one for him, as a bit of thank you.

Iain
 
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=144&category_id=7&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=45

Will this work?

You can also piece your pedal together from parts from small bear

*edit*

I didn't see that you are in the UK.  I'm sure there is a kit you could probably get in the UK.
 
Thanks guys, think I have all I need here .... so I will be back when I have made a compleat pigs ear out of it

Iain

much much thanks to you all
 
Basically you need (for what you described):

- A good input buffer with good load drive capability (preferrably 1,5gain so you can tweak send levels AFTER that independently - with 2 simple pots).
- A good output 2->1 summer/buffer with good drive load capability.

Then, you need to sketch out:
- dual SEND level control (2 pots)
- (OPTIONALLY) dual return MIX control (2 pots, balance pot...)
- OUTPUT level (1 pot)

and, you have to figure out SWITCHING:
- FETS are "too sexy", a "hard", "true", switch may be easier to work with
- fugure out where to put PULLDOWNS (1-2MEG resistors) to avoid POPS and CLICKS

IMNHO it's WAY better to concentrate on BEST audio path design and do some manual spaghetti work with pots/switching than to waste time on switching logic/fets - for a DIY project. DIY is worth it if you plan on BETTER audio path than what you can get from a store.


Your friends:
http://focus.ti.com/docs/prod/folders/print/tle2062.html
http://focus.ti.com/docs/prod/folders/print/tle2072.html

(first one for 9V battery, the second one for more juice)
 
bahrens said:
http://www.schematicx.com/schematic/ibanez-ls10-dual-loop-selector-schematic/

ok, is this a high and mighty schematic, or could and idiot like me with a few books, pen and paper get his head around it? dont mind having a dabble if I stand a chance of understanding it :-[

Iain

educational reasons
 
Having just taken 20 mins to figure that the square boxes are connections between pcb's this may take a while
 
I'd say look into the Radial Engineering stuff.  Their ToneBone stuff. There is a loop selector there somewhere.

take care
Gil
 
> connections between pcb's this may take a while

Most of the BJTs are simple emitter-follower buffers. Skim over these. The triangle op-amps allow mild gain/loss on returns, and could be jumpered-over.

The sideways FETs are the actual switches. Their gates are grouped as A B C; whatever Q6 and Q9 do, they do together. There are two LEDs lower-left fed by BJTs driven by groups B and C.

Down bottom-center there is a pushbutton SW which is bounce-buffered to two flip-flops. These can hold four different states. They are decoded to states A B C which go to those FET gates. Presumably you tap the button and it sequences A B C. There's more trickery: it looks like it senses Return B and maybe skips the C state if nothing is plugged in. There's a power-up reset. None of these sub-frills are essential.

It is strictly "Straight -or- A -or- B", and a lot of tedious work for what it does. it makes sense for a process where cheap parts are very cheap and labor is even cheaper: oriental mass-production. Build this, and then he will want "40% A and 67% B and 12% C", which gets exponentially more tedious. "Wah-wah"... argh. As a DIY build.... just buy it already done.

> as a bit of thank you.

Beer.
 
thanks, but I dont drink, had to 'take the pledge' :-[

way cheaper to buy it, but I would learn absolutly nothing that way. 30 secs in and you decoded it, 20 mins and I discovered 2 pcbs. like to try to get my timing down to 18 mins at some point, and thats not available in any shop.

thank you so much for your help!!!

Iain
 

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