My bad; I'm so used to calculating only the noise added by the other components.ricothetroll said:You need to add the thermal noise of the source resistor.
My bad; I'm so used to calculating only the noise added by the other components.ricothetroll said:You need to add the thermal noise of the source resistor.
IIRC, RTS used a custom xfmr by Reichenbach, I think now Cinemag. You could use any decent 1:1 xfmr there because the output level is somewhat limited by the +/- 9v rails.bruce0 said:WRT Vactrol based limiter. Here is a schematic for a rather old battery powered in line mic preamp (no phantom) using such a limiter.
Anyone know what that output transformer is - couldn't find the number anywhere?
Have you SPICE'd the schemo?ricothetroll said:OK, so I breadboarded the preamp and the sidechain. I did my previous tests with visual analyser, a scope/FFT software I feed with my soundcard (RME Multiface). This time I used my old scope to have a look at the signal and I noticed some huge HF oscillations when I reduce the gain, that the RME couldn't see because of its audio limited bandwidth... I guess those are caused by the lack of compensation of my system. Those oscillations happen at about -21dB GR, which is already quite good for a peak limiter, but I'd like to make sure those won't start in more critical situations (higher temp, worse PSU...). The oscillations waveform is triangular, and freq is about 200kHz.
I tried to put a small cap across the feedback resistor (vactrol) but it seems to create some other oscillations, lower in frequency.
What else could I do to improve the preamp's stability ? I tried to read TI's paper "Stability Analysis of Voltage feedback Op-Amps" but I must admit that after a few pages it is far beyond my level of understanding :-[
Thanx in advance for your advices !
Best regards.
Eric
As I wrote earlier, your arrangement loads the mic just like (and maybe even more than) the simple vactrol-in-parallels-with-the-secondary connection.ricothetroll said:Hi,
Thanx for this schematic (RTS) ! But IMHO playing with negative feedback is better, because it doesn't load the mic as the impedance shunt (like in the RTS) do. Furthermore, I intend to use it not only for ambience recording but also with my MKH416 on the boompole, and that particular mike has a low 25R output impedance...
I don't fully understand what you mean. Basically, the side-chain is operating on the input signal, not on the VCA output, which makes it a feed-forward structure. But the side-chain is in a feedback arrangement, like a GSSL.Instead of switching the source of the sidechain, I implemented a "dummy" VCA : if the main VCA volume is lower than 0dB, the sidechain VCA stays at unity gain and so the sidechain sees the same signal as right after the preamp. If the gain of the main VCA is higher than 0dB, and so the main VCA is prone to clip, the sidechain sees a copy of the post sidechain signal.
I see that when the limiter is engaged, the VCA volume control is disconnected; is it really what you want?Any comment is appreciated, as usual
R37 & 37 are useless. They would be necessary if you had coupling caps.ricothetroll said:Hi,
Thanx for your criticism, made me realize my mistakes ! I actually didn't think that the NFB could load the input, now I understand why.
I did some tests with Aphex's method, and that sounds quite good actually. I kept the whole sidechain though, because their method with the comparator introduces a lot of distortion a low-low mid frequencies (sidechain feedthrough to the signal).
Here is the resulting schematic :
http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/3407/lcod.png
To be continued...
Best regards.
Eric
R37 & 37 are useless. They would be necessary if you had coupling caps.
I still don't understand the switch at the bottom right.
In one position it increases the output gain with a range of about +24 to +60dB.
In the other it goes to a mysterious Link1...
Are D1 & D2 really necessary? I don't think so.
Regarding the output stage, you may want to read this thread
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=38473.0
In particular
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=38473.msg677311#msg677311
I would rather have impedance-balanced outputs.
OK, got it.ricothetroll said:I must admit that I haven't been too explicit about it ! On the left channel, the 3 pins of the switch are shorted and the "link1" pin is connected to the "link1" of the right channel. On the right channel, the switch is wired as on the schematic. When the switch is on the normal position, both channel are independant (dual mono), and when the switch is on the "link1" position, the volume pot of the left channel controls the volume of both channels (stereo).I still don't understand the switch at the bottom right.
In one position it increases the output gain with a range of about +24 to +60dB.
In the other it goes to a mysterious Link1...
Why not, they can do no harm anyway.Those diodes perform some protection/soft clipping as on Samuel's schematic :Are D1 & D2 really necessary? I don't think so.
abbey road d enfer said:OK, got it.ricothetroll said:I must admit that I haven't been too explicit about it ! On the left channel, the 3 pins of the switch are shorted and the "link1" pin is connected to the "link1" of the right channel. On the right channel, the switch is wired as on the schematic. When the switch is on the normal position, both channel are independant (dual mono), and when the switch is on the "link1" position, the volume pot of the left channel controls the volume of both channels (stereo).I still don't understand the switch at the bottom right.
In one position it increases the output gain with a range of about +24 to +60dB.
In the other it goes to a mysterious Link1...Why not, they can do no harm anyway.Those diodes perform some protection/soft clipping as on Samuel's schematic :Are D1 & D2 really necessary? I don't think so.
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