Pushbutton bypass for GSSL ?

[MartyMart]

I searched and didn't come up with much - sorry !
Can anyone tell me how this is done - relay's ?
and where to get those small square push buttons a-la original SSL comp ?

Much appreciated, and please note that i'm not a "relay guy" so help me
out a little !
The Gyraf switch has 2 x poles and three connections so I'm assuming that
a "push button" DPDT won't do !

Cheers,

Marty.

 

[[silent:arts]]

Hey my friend, you can have an original one from me when we meet us next :thumb:

 

[MartyMart]

Volker to the rescue !!
You are the man
I arrive on the 14th in Berlin so a few beers on the 16th is on :sam: :sam:

Will be staying in a different place, an apartment just off the Kudam.

Speak soon, you didn't email me your handi number ??

Cheers,
Marty.

 

[lookn4tone]

I just put together a turbo GSSL with the 2 sidechain boards (what a nightmare!). I used a DPDT toggle for the bypass.

I wired one of the poles of the switch (center tab of the switch) to the "com" pad on the pcb and the other pole (center tab) to 1/2 of the link pad on the pcb.

Then I wired one side of the switch (bottom tabs): One tab was wired to the "on" pad of the pcb (corresponding to the "com" pole), and the other tab was wired to the link pad of the pcb (corresponding to the link pole).

Then I wired the other side of the switch (top tab) to the "off" pad on the pcb (corresponding to the "com" pole); the other side of the switch for the link pole remains empty, as there is no connection on the pcb.

Seems to me you should be able to do the same with the pushbutton.

 

[MartyMart]

Thanks lookn4tone, I think that makes sense, will get the schem out for the
bypass switch and have a look see.

Regards,

Marty.

 

[SSLtech]

Relay bypass is usually for "hard-bypass" signal switching... I'm not really a fan for this purpose, (see Volker's signature! :wink but I use a pushbutton switch and a two-pole changeover relay... -Although this is NOT a bypass, -it's a compression 'enable' button, and I do think it's fairly important to distinguish between the two terminologies... -I'm assuming that this is what you are in fact looking for...?

You'll have to do something similar if you want the button to light up... a two-pole won't do, since you need two poles to enable/disable the compression (one pole mutes the sidechain signal, the other pole disconnects the makeup gain so that it has no effect... check the schematic and it'll all make sense...)

What I do is to mount a small PCB relay right there on the board with some short stiff wire going right from the relay pins to the holes in the board, then I simply sneak a wire from the nearby 12V and ground (which feed the 'power on' LED via a 1k resistor) to the switch, and use a 1k resistor to limit power to an LED inside the switch, from the switched output.... which also feeds the relay.

Hope that makes sense, but it's the correct way unless you can find a 3-pole EAO switch (possible to find, but easily approaching fifty of your earth quid!!!, or nearly a hundred Martian dollars!)

Myself I use the later 9000-series SSL pushbuttons, which can be had locally for about ten bucks, and come with LEDs already fitted inside them. -The version which I use has a removable clear plastic cap, which allows me to mount a printed label INSIDE the switch, which is then illuminated when the LED comes on... MUCH more cost-effective than having the cap engraved, and looks more or less the same.

...Oh, if you'd really like both a relay and a switch, I can send one to you, but the switch is not QUITE the same appearance as the older SSL E and G series... I don't know if you're looking for an exact match or not?

Keith

 

[SSLtech]

Some pics.. it's all that I have to hand right now...

Here's the 9000-type switches with laser-printed inserts under the clear plastic caps:

Here's how I mount the relay: (...-a chance for some sneaky wiring-tidiness gloating! :twisted

...and here's how the final thing looks when it's all built, powered-up and illuminated:

Keith

 

[MartyMart]

Thanks keith, PM'd but I keep getting errors here at the moment and the
PM went into "debug mode error" so hope you get it !
I'll pop over an email too,
Cheers,

Marty.

 

[SSLtech]

I've been getting debug errors also after posting/editing... glad to hear that it's not just me! :wink:

Keith

 

[MartyMart]

I must say that I've had many weird errors and "time outs" during that last
week or so.

MM.

 

[lookn4tone]

Hey Keith

So...is my wiring of the DPDT toggle incorrect? I looked at the schematic, and didn't see a reason why I couldn't use it. Did I miss something?

Thanks,

Steve

 

[SSLtech]

No that'll work perfectly well, but for an illuminated DPDT switch (such as SSL use on their console and outboard buss compressors), one of the poles would have to be 'stolen' to light the illumination...

My solution was to use a single pole of an illuminated pushbutton to light itself with 12V, then ALSO sniff the same switched 12V DC voltage to flip a double-pole relay... the two poles of which are wired exactly as your toggle switch.

Basically, I needed a THIRD pole to do the illumination, so I used a relay to 'regenerate' two poles after I stole one for the illumination.

Hopefully that makes some sense!

Keith

 

[onlymeeee]

Hi,

I am interested in using this relay solution to use a 2 pole illuminated switch, however I am a little unsure how to.

Would it be a 12v SPDT relay I'd need?

Am i going from the 2 poles of the switch to the relay.
From the relay to the com on, off.
A wire from 12v - 0v (where the LED light is generated from), going to a 1k resistor to one pole of the switch and also it goes to the relay?

Is that right? or could you let me know where I am wrong?

Thanks,

Dave

 

[Siegfried Meier]

Hey Keith,

I've been trying to get this done on one of my units for a while now, but I just can't grasp it. Can you make it more clear exactly what you used? Is there a relay PCB? I've read and re-read what you wrote, but I still can't figure out exactly how this is done. I believe I have the original EAO switches in my unit.

Oh, and I used a clear water slide decal with clear coat overtop, works great!

 

[barclaycon]

My super sidechain PCB made all this very easy.
Check:
http://picasaweb.google.com/barclaycon/GSSLSuperSidechainPCB

You can simply use the EAO switch to do the switching with a matching T5.5 wedge LED lamp for the indication.

 

[onlymeeee]

[quote author="barclaycon"]My super sidechain PCB made all this very easy.
Check:
http://picasaweb.google.com/barclaycon/GSSLSuperSidechainPCB

You can simply use the EAO switch to do the switching with a matching T5.5 wedge LED lamp for the indication.[/quote]

Yeah, I tried buying 4 off you but you only had one left.
Any idea when you'd be getting anymore?

 

[joe-electro]

True, balanced bypass:

Sorry for the crappy, hand-drawn schematic.

Four DIP relays go in the sockets.

---Joe

 

[Siegfried Meier]

Messaged you Barclayon, this is exactly what I'm looking for!

Thanks,
Sig

 

[barclaycon]

Perhaps I should have used a different title to describe the PCB, but I designed it as an all-in-one problem solver to match the Purusha case.

As well as the sidechain circuit, it provides for bypass switching, indication and meter backlighting.

I recently saw that Gustav wanted to do a version of this board and since I'm a bit fed up with all the follow ups on delivery problems etc. (which are after all out of my hands), I'm prepared to give the PCB layout files over to him.
However, he has not contacted me.

Martyn

 

[Igor]

Possible to use this one:
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=29770&highlight=bypass+pcb