For the HV part of the PSU, if using tubes or making your own pcb is not an option, I would do a turret board point-point implementation of the simple regulator circuit from the Orange86 schematic.
Charley's documentation for the Orange 86 psu is
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/9818263/O86_Build%20Docs-v1.5.zip
It consists of a 4 stage R-C pi filter feeding a zener-diode-string-referenced series-pass-transistor.
Quite straight foward and easily scaled up to provide the required 120mA or so.
You could use a t03 metal can transistor on a heatsink easily enough with wires to the turret board where the caps, resistors and zeners live. You get the regulated, loaded dc voltage you want by adjusting the pi-filter resistor values.
The phantom +48V power could be easiest done with a commercial pcb, for example, a JLM 3-rail PSU pcb.
It can also provide an additional pair of +/- rails for lights/relays etc.
There are probably others out there that can provide regulated +48V with or without doubling/tripling or additional rails.
In the case of the JLM, it accepts ac voltages from 15 to18V (voltage tripling) or 22 to 25V (voltage doubling), that would mean you need a psu transformer something like this :
250vac to 275Vac at 150mA for HV
15 or 24Vac at 50mA for phantom (doubling or tripling) or 50Vac for non-doubling-tripling
Heater power could be ac, so you would need 6.3Vac winding (either centre tapped for 'hum pot' or dc raising or non CT for the simplest case) at 4x 500ma-600mA (depending on tube choice) - so 2.5A minimum. Some extra current rating is a good idea. Say 3A or 4A if possible.
You could also do dc heater. Everyone has an opinion on this. I prefer ac heaters. You might not.
If you don't want ac heaters :
For unregulated, no problem. You need a good sized rectifier bridge and around 25000uF, 25V of capacitance for smoothing and probably a 25W 0.5R or so dropping resistor. (actual value determined in the circuit using a variable rheostat to find the correct value)
Regulated heater is another issue again - probably a commercial pcb would be best. And a big heat sink. Has the advantage of not needing to use a rheostat to determine the correct dropping resistor.
You could also do a turret board thing similar to the hv regulator. But I wouldn't bother.
So there it is for a roll-your-own psu.
Find a transformer to suit.
I can't think of any single toroids that can supply the required 120mA. 100ma yes - they are available. That could be used if you adjust the plate resistor of the driver tube some to lower the current to a total of 25max mA per preamp.
You could use 2x toroids - people do it all the time for the G9 inside the chassis. No problem especially for stand-alone psu.
There are some on ebay that would suit. For example
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toroid-Transformer-T30-55W-for-Tube-Amplifier-Amp-/280416409885?pt=US_Home_Audio_Amplifiers_Preamps&hash=item414a1ed91d
For e-core style, Edcor would probably have something to suit.
You would also need some connectors and cable suitable for carrying quite a decent amount of power.
2.5A of LV dc and 120mA of HV dc.
If you like to do this sort of thing, you could end up with a really great unit at a fraction of the cost of something commercially sourced.
Good luck with it.