rock soderstrom
Tour de France
I am not Ruud, but he mentioned it in this thread:Ruud, What DC-DC IC does your board use?
"EDIT 29/08; Today I looked with 'better eyes', the chips are CXW8509 and MAX1771."
I am not Ruud, but he mentioned it in this thread:Ruud, What DC-DC IC does your board use?
This of course raises the question of where to get a PE connection? An effects unit could be set up with protective insulation case, but not a tube microphone.The operation with a standard 9V DC wall wart is very tempting.
Hi RuudNL,The output voltage of the DC converter drops, so no excessive dissipation in the resistor.
I have swapped the two DC converters; the one I used for the +210V now only delivers 6.3 V and vice versa.
To my surprise this solved the problem. So it seems one DC converter had a problem.
Still it is strange that the 'faulty' DC converter delivered 210 V without a load, and did the same with a 10 mA load, but dropped the voltage when an R-C load was conneted. Well, problem solved it seems...
View attachment 122813
Boards similar to those in post #24 have a trimmer that allows tuning the output voltage by about +/-10%.Hi, i ordered some of these little boards from Ebay, but they put out 6.7V instead of 6.3 (i used a 33 ohm 2w resistor to simulate an EF86 filament)
I found out that C6 is 62k but for 6.3V it should be about 58k. A parallel resistor with about 820K or 910K will give you the right output voltage.
Do you mean the same board produces HT and heaters simulatneously (out of a single regulator)? Then adjusting HT would also adjust heaters, which you may find inconvenient...Sorry it‘s R6 not C6…
My boards have a trimmer for HV output only…
An additional RC Filter is an good idea and can fix this easy.
That, or finding the NFB resistor and adding a resistor in parallels to adjust the voltage to your liking,An additional RC Filter is an good idea and can fix this easy.
I think I have placed a 820 K (or was it 680k ?) in parallel with the SMD feedback resistor.That, or finding the NFB resistor and adding a resistor in parallels to adjust the voltage to your liking,
I can't see where pin 3 is connected. Can you explain this topic a little more?Interesting: getting a MAX1771 to work with a vertically-oriented multi-turn pot is actually quite a challenge, as this chip has no compensation on the FB pin, and will easily turn into a 50MHz transmitter through coupling into the feedback pot.
Can you tell by looking at the PCB if the feedback pin (pin 3) is bypassed?
All smps have residual HF noise, which makes the use of additional filtering almost mandatory in any sort of noise-sensitive application.But, in early bench tests I'm seeing some HF noise on o'scope cranked wide open (max gain). I didn't try any bypass cap filtering at that time.
I think heater voltage is where the use of an smps makes the most sense, in terms of efficiency.BTW, I plan on using a separate adjustable linear PS for heater voltage.
My first prototypes with the chip howled at high frequency (I can't recall the exact frequency, but it was above 40 Mhz) whenever I used a Bournes 3296W multi-turn pot for adjustment of the output voltage. Stuffing in plain SMD resistors for a fixed output voltage and the problem went away.Can you explain this topic a little more?
The FB pin is very sensitive to stray EMI - the voltage feedback network should be kept away from high current paths and the connection to the FB pin should be as short as possible. Should your implementation appear to not regulate or not to be adjustable, use a 'scope to have a look at the FB pin (3) - if you see spikes, then that may well be the reason. Putting a suppression capacitor from pin 3 to ground is not a solution - the layout must be correct.
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