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Marik

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 3, 2004
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Hey Folks,

Usually silicon has vinegary smell and is highly corrosive for metals. Is there any type which would be safe on metals and not that smelly?

Best, M
 
Silicone has that vinegary smell when it's old and won't harden. I throw it out at that point.
I've been using Loctite GO 2 GLUE dries clear and flows out smooth when dried.
 
Sorry, forgot to mention it doesn't have to cure hard and shouldn't flow. That's why silicone consistency is perfect.
 
I believe Scott Dorsey mentioned a good RTV for electronics use in one of his Oktava DIY articles for Recording magazine.  I think the articles are up on the Recordingmag.com website--might be worth a peek.
 
Marik said:
Hey Folks,

Usually silicon has vinegary smell and is highly corrosive for metals. Is there any type which would be safe on metals and not that smelly?

Best, M

Silicon? Silicone?

I just bought a tube of silicone (o-ring) lubricant, to use under my treadmill belt. I sure hope "silicone" is not corrosive to metal since it is routinely used around metal, and on my treadmill between the rubber belt and metal base plate.

RTV silicone is an adhesive/sealant so a different animal made from several different chemical components so may have a shelf life..

JR
 
I've found that some brands of silicone adhesive are "stinky" and can cause electrical corrosion from the out-gassing as it cures.  Other brands don't seem to emit that stink, and I hope won't cause corrosion.  Most recently, a non stinky brand I've used is "Liquid Nails Clear 100%  silicone adhesive" that I bought at Ace Hardware (or Home Depot?  Lowes?...don't recall).  But to be safe, I let the project fully cure in free air for maybe 48+ hours (vs the 24 hours mentioned on the tube) before closing up the device being repaired.

Bri
 
I did a little looking into this recently, as I was trying to find something to hold caps in place.

Short summary, regular silicone (not the same a silicon) gives off acid whilst curing.
Specific electronic silicone glue does not.

I read that RTV-103 is a favourite.
 
Rochey said:
Short summary, regular silicone (not the same a silicon) gives off acid whilst curing.
Specific electronic silicone glue does not.

I read that RTV-103 is a favourite.

That's how I understand it. Also, the self-curing types tend to contain acetic acid (hence the vinegar smell). I have bought silicone rubber for electronics potting in the past from Farnell and RS.

The stuff for electrical application tends to come in 2 parts, with a catalyst to initiate the setting.

Finally, has anyone else tried Sugru? It is handy for some jobs, but not as wobbly/bouncy as I had hoped!
http://sugru.com

:)
Stewart



 
what I really want is something I can use to hold caps in place whilst soldering...
3M rep called me and suggested a special hot clue. But I'd need to buy a 3M hot gun too... $$$$$
 
Generic hot glue and hot glue guns are cheap. The only issue for holding caps in place is inside electronics like power amps that get pretty hot. I have seen hot glue remelt and flow, inside hot puppies.

JR
 
I found out that if you do not let RTV Silicone cure *completely*, and apply voltage, it breaks-down, sparks, and burns. This was at 600V; have not re-checked at lesser voltage.

My go-to glue for many things is Shoe Goo. Also sold as Plumber's Goop and some other names.

This is the stuff used in shoe factories to assemble shoe soles and uppers to soles. A rubbery base cut with a strong solvent.

Or used to be. As we recall, true shoe goo can be sniffed for fun, damages brain and liver. Also makes smog. About 25 years ago Shoe Goo reduced the solvent content and flavor. It still works, though not as good. Too thick and slow for rapid shoe production, adequate for general stiction.

I have used Shoe Goo to attach nailer boards to concrete walls with no other fastening.

I just today used it to attach trim-washers to wing-bolts so the washers don't fall off when you open the fusebox. It stays rubbery so the washers will set flat on the box cover despite warpage.

I've gooed a LOT of capacitors into place. Never a worry that they will fall off. And I have never seen it cause corruption on fine copper electronics. It's just solvent. Rots your brain, not your copper. Oh, probably upsets fine varnish and paint too.

I've even repaired shoes with Shoe Goo.

Main drawback is that it stinks like a urinal for 20 hours. Once cured it is quite innocent.
 

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