Soundtracs Solitaire Cap replacement

[Joey777]

Jeezo I never thought to do that and there was me overthinking with jumper cables and all. I think that would look realy tidy also. Maybe some glue under the cap to keep it steady do you think?
It would be nice also to try a proper job with new pad / rings. Would you know where to buy these from and at the ring size I would need. Maybe I am creating to much work but it would look nice and proper. Decisions decisions. What would you do personally?

Thanks again for all the help.

 

[abbey road d enfer]

Edit: On this site they have a kit, but I'm looking only for the rings and I think this site is for wholesalers only

It looks like what you call "rings" is actually the pads. These are not replaceable parts. They are integral to the PCB manufacturing process, which starts with a layer of copper deposited on the insulating material, followed by etching, which leaves the tracks and pads.
Lifted pads is an endemic issue in PCB repair. Ther is no nice way of dealing with it.
As suggested by Ike, you need to remove the green resist varnish as to clear a spot and solder the component lead.

 

[Joey777]

Thanks abbey road. I got thrown by this Land Repair Kit, PCB Pad Repair Kit
and thought these kits or part of the kit ( the track pads / ringpads ) were sold. It would look real nice if I could use something like this kit

 

[abbey road d enfer]

Thanks abbey road. I got thrown by this Land Repair Kit, PCB Pad Repair Kit
and thought these kits or part of the kit ( the track pads / ringpads ) were sold. It would look real nice if I could use something like this kit

I didn't know these things still existed. It was popular in the 60's, when PCB's were fairly new, but people realized they were difficult to use and the repairs were not very reliable..

 

[Joey777]

I didn't know these things still existed. It was popular in the 60's, when PCB's were fairly new, but people realized they were difficult to use and the repairs were not very reliable..

Got you. Thanks ever so much for the help.
Cheers, joey

 

[Joey777]

Hey ho. I stitched the caps. Not the tidiest I think. and I have 2 types of coating to finish them off. Would any of these from the foto's bellow be ok to use.

Cheers joey

 

[Ike Zimbel]

I wouldn't coat them. The 2nd, 3rd and 4th connections from the left of your image look a bit suspect, with the 3rd one just looking like it could use a bit more solder. With the other two, can you measure continuity from XLR pins 2 & 3 to the bent over cap leads? If not, you will need to add some jumper wires. I would solder them directly to the XLR pads at the bottom of your image and then to the bent over cap leads.

 

[Joey777]

Ah Ike you are a star, thanks very much. I didn't think they looked good enough and I didn't realise until you said that the track runs both ways. Ah you saved me there. I must slow down a bit and as the wise carpenter said...." measure twice and cut once"
Thanks again
Cheers, joey

 

[Joey777]

Hi folks,
Finally got the old girl back up and running. Turns out 2 caps on the line input section were bad and 1 IC TL074 ( I think, original was JRC got a replacement ). Replaced them with new and slightly higher voltage caps and got it working. However the IPS system took a little wobble and was acting like one of the ch's was in solo mode, rendering the IPS not usable. So I got some DEOXIT and gave all the mute and solo switches a clean and pressed them all a load of times to work the deoxit in. Seemed to do the trick. When switching the desk on the solo light would be on then slowly fade after 10 / 15mins. Then all would be well. Then after a few weeks the solo or IPS light would be out on startup and all is well again.
I am thinking that old consoles are much like old cars, in that they are great when running and crap when they are not...LOL

Thanks everyone for all your help
Joey

 

[scott2000]

That's a tricky one.
You may try a capmeter. First try in-circuit , you may or may not get a coherent indication. It may identify the component as a resistor or diode or a DeLorean 1.21 gigawatts flux capacitor. In that case, you need to lift one of the pins.
Alternatively, you may want to measure the LF response of a channel; if you see signs of loss of LF, you need to use the traditional faultfinding techniques to locate the stage(s) that cause that loss.
Some would recommend the use of an ESR meter. However, you need to be aware that capacitors made 20+ years ago gad a higher ESR than those made today.
In order to make a definitive assessment, you would need to have a brand new capacitor made with the technology of the time for comparison... Since ESR was not considered at the time as a primordial data, ESR was very seldom published in the days.

Is this saying because caps were made in the past ,even if their ESR reading tells questionable on say a Bob Parker meter they are acceptable because of the circuit?

I have a bunch of old (early 80s) caps in circuit that are all measuring fine capacitance wise but, with a little hum and buzz in the circuit, I'm wanting to see if I can blame caps, but at the same time I want to be lazy..ish

 

[abbey road d enfer]

I have a bunch of old (early 80s) caps in circuit that are all measuring fine capacitance wise but, with a little hum and buzz in the circuit, I'm wanting to see if I can blame caps, but at the same time I want to be lazy..ish

It depends very much on what is the role of the caps. If they are used as coupling capacitors, i.e. blocking DC but passing signal, they cannot cause hum/buzz, but if they are in the power supply, they may very well result in hum/buzz.