Source for 220nF 250V Polyester

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Any electronics supplier?

You can use 220n 400V also.

Best regards,

Mikkel C. Simonsen
 
My confusion I guess is in what looks like allot of other diy'ers are using in there box. Most of the poly caps I find in Digi key are the oval poly type. In Jakob's G9 and a few others I have noticed. The square poly caps.


I am almost done ordering my parts for my G9 and I don't want to cheap out on what I am not sure is an important part.

Can someone explain briefly the difference between these two caps and the advantages of either one.

Also if the square poly caps are the right choice, some US sources would be greatly apprecciatted.


Thanks,

Steve
 
220NF 250V

I may have a bunch of these around somewhere.

They are Panasonic ECQ series - oval

the squares are likely metalized film type

If your still interested, what would you like to get them for $$ each
and how many would you need ?
 
Not gonna hurt anyone, I'm here to help. As I would expect others to do on this thread or any thread on this forum. DIY - everybody helps everybody here.

Give me a day to go thru my stuff and if I have them I'll beat Digikey or Mouser's price anyday. Hows that ?

leave your email so I can make contact. OK
 
Maxwall,

I didn't notice that they were the ECQ series - oval, I am still confused about the importance of using the box type caps in the audio path. I don't want to waste your time if I should be using something of a higher quality.


I've noticed a few people using them and they seem to be allot more expensive. I've read about the box type lasting longer and holding up better under higher temperatures, but not sure if or how they effect audio.

What do you or anyone else make of this. I've spent over 500 on my G9 so far and I don't want to cheap out on the caps.

Thanks guys,

Steve
 
Polyesters Films are fine, if there in the 10% range, and you probably won't notice a large difference compared to the 5% Metalized Film type.

Some say it changes the tone , clearer or ,more open sounding.

If you want the best , of course 5% Metalized Film caps are very good.

Were not talking about more than $10.00 in caps here. So If it were me, I would experiment with different types and brands and use your ears to find what you like the best. You may be suprised at the results.
 
[quote author="isamee"]I am still confused about the importance of using the box type caps in the audio path.[/quote]
The only difference most of the time is that the "box" caps are oval caps fitted in a plastic box... The oval ones are just epoxy dipped. The box types contain a cap sealed in epoxy inside the plastic box. The box makes the cap more mechanically stable, but otherwise there's no difference. So just use whatever you have.

Best regards,

Mikkel C. Simonsen
 
So if I am doing the math correctly. Although there are multiple grades of caps, the only real difference between the Radial Box caps is that they can withstand higher temperatures and are more form fit to PC boards.


With the temperatures of the G9 containing 4 tubes and 4 transformers, I wonder whether the Radial Box type is the way to go.

Do any of you have a good sources for Box type caps?

Thanks for the all the help guys, this is starting to get pretty fun.

Thanks,

Steve
 
[quote author="isamee"]Although there are multiple grades of caps, the only real difference between the Radial Box caps is that they can withstand higher temperatures[/quote]
Temperature has nothing to do with it. That depends on the dielectric material. The box caps will get just as hot - it will just take longer.

Look at the capacitor datasheets for the max. temperature. Trust me - you do not need box capacitors. I have used a mix myself - some Epcos box types, some Philips dipped types and some strange looking Russian surplus caps...

Best regards,

Mikkel C. Simonsen
 
> I am still confused about the importance of using the box type caps in the audio path.

The shape of a cap is pretty unimportant.

The main idea is to keep moisture out and protect the thin foil/films against physical damage.

Early film caps were just dipped in wax. This was OK for home radios, except if the wax was not super-pure then mice would nibble it, and in tropic air it would grow fungus.

Micamold used a teeny "waffle iron" to seal caps in a block of bakelite. Pretty solid. Other techniques include dipping in liquid plastic, and molding plastic around the naked cap. One euro company favors making 5-sided plastic boxes, rolling caps to fit, and then pouring sealer in the bottom.

Dipped caps are often lowest-cost. Making little boxes and sealing them costs a few cents more. But dipped caps can vary in size; box-caps are uniform. In high-density mass production, that may be worth the price. And they look neat. But dipped caps can be just as good.

Use a good brand of polyester. Be sure the voltage rating is well above the circuit voltage. In this case, look at temperature rating: mostly all polyester is the same, but small refinements or simple over-design may give better temperature/life. Size must fit the available space of course, though lead-spacing can often be bent to fit a 8mm-centers part in 6mm-centers holes. Shape, apart from "does it fit?", really isn't an issue.

The real differences between caps are mostly invisible and, for audio purity, mostly unmeasurable. Most caps sound good, or rather they don't have any strong flavor like tubes and transformers and mikes/speakers. Caps can have subtle flavors: not good and bad, but more like rosemary and tarragon: you use different spice-harmony in different dishes, and sometimes in a new dish you won't know what spice goes best until you try it different ways.
 
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