Suggestions for replacing a Fluke 8060a?

[zamproject]

I recaped my 8060a last year.
IIRC was puzzled too by one capacitor polarity reversed according to pcb marking, but don't remember what I do finally...
But the meter work great.

I rapidly check and find back this Old Fluke Multimeters - Page 32 (page 32)

It's C19, also I just look again the schemo, this caps is at TRMS detector, probably we get full AC here, already cleaned for any DC ?
I see small value caps in series at about all nodes coming up to detector IC, so the polarity don't matter much for C19?

 

[scott2000]

Interesting...Thanks for that.... Going to read some. Maybe someone was on the whacky tobacky when stuffing some of these boards. Mine is from 89 and original..
Meter seems to be working now. Little hesitation on startup and it'll flake out if I move the switch a bit, which I don't plan to....... going to revisit it soon...

 

[sodderboy]

Make sure no cold solder on switch contacts.
I have one wiggy from ‘87, my first real battle axe. Another took 5 kV and never woke up, fuse ok. Never thought about electrolytics. I got the schemos at some point but have only had occasional internal connection issues 30+ years, 6+ meters, one NOS. They all track a NIST calibrated unit year after year.
I’ll replace the 8060a. . . out of my cold, dead hand.
Mike

 

[zamproject]

Meter seems to be working now. Little hesitation on startup and it'll flake out if I move the switch a bit, which I don't plan to....... going to revisit it soon...

Contact cleaner at switches may help ?
Also check the banana plug, I had strange behaviour years ago.
The banana are rivet mounted to pcb, and with time and prob insertion with some rotation stress they get loose, ending with bad contact at input, I reflow them.
Just be careful with extra cleaning especially if you use the high impedances function or 1/Ω (Siemens) measurement.

 

[scott2000]

Make sure no cold solder on switch contacts.

Of course.. Thanks

Never thought about electrolytics

Yeah, all but 1 or 2 were considered leaky when I tested on esr meter...the're so small...

Contact cleaner at switches may help ?

Oh yeah.. I'll try that too... I feel bad because it's actually a bit dirty...not inside so much but it's been used outside of audio for sure. Sitting in my garage helping on my truck atm..

Just be careful with extra cleaning

No problem there.. I read people bath them in ipa but I don't see it needs that. It''s not bad at all inside..

if you use the high impedances function or 1/Ω (Siemens) measurement.

Funny you mention that. While looking through the manual, I was surprised to see the other things it could do.
Thanks!

 

[NoisyIndividual]

Is there a reason this has not been included in these discussions?

https://www.nti-audio.com/en/products/minilyzer-ml1

 

[KA-Electonics.com]

The ML1 is a nice instrument but doesn't measure basic things like voltage, resistance and current that are necessary for troubleshooting.

So if you have an ML1 for advanced audio measurements you still need a basic DVM.

Those having Fluke 8050 and 8060 meters may find this application not interesting and useful: "Using Conductance to Check Out Electronic Components (and just about anything else)," John Fluke Manufacturing Company, Application Bulletin AB-44, June 1978. Fluke: Using Conductance to Check Electronic Components - Pro Audio Design Forum

I made the transistor tester and use it fairly often for Hfe measurements.

 

[NoisyIndividual]

The ML1 is a nice instrument but doesn't measure basic things like voltage, resistance and current that are necessary for troubleshooting.

So if you have an ML1 for advanced audio measurements you still need a basic DVM.

I don't quite follow that logic.

Most people who want to progress to measuring audio in dB, which their current multimeter can't do, will already have at least one basic multimeter that serves their purposes.

 

[KA-Electonics.com]

Most people who want to progress to measuring audio in dB, which their current multimeter can't do

The assumption that their current multimeter can't read dB isn't necessarily so since most of what is being discussed is the 8060 and its repair.
Some people doing field service, who have to carry parts and tools in addition to a meter, may want to travel light and just carry one instrument.

If you have a Fluke 187 or whatever and need to measure dB then go buy an ML1 and strap both onto you as you climb that ladder.

 

[NoisyIndividual]

The assumption that their current multimeter can't read dB isn't necessarily so since most of what is being discussed is the 8060 and its repair.

OK, but I am just pointing out that instead of trying to repair an ancient multimeter, you can buy a nice new one that will display all your dB's rather neatly.

Nobody here seems to have thought of that as a viable alternative.

And most of us don't climb ladders with our multimeters.

 

[Gold]

A Minilyzer isn’t cheap. You could get a pretty nice bench oscilloscope for that money.

I ran across this the other day. EM7000 | Analog Multimeter - High Sensitivity FET for Measurement of Lower Capacitance

It’s got a stated AC Bandwidth of 40Hz to 1MHz +\-5%. 2.5Mohm/V. It’s about $125 new. Pretty nice.

 

[NoisyIndividual]

Doesn't do dB though.

Minilyzers can be bought used on Ebay.
Most bench scopes you can't put in your pocket and shin up a ladder.

 

[Tubetec]

Fluke 187 does have db measurement capabillity .

 

[NoisyIndividual]

I don't shin up ladders much with my multimeters, but I do do live gigs where the polarity function of the ML1 would be very useful in determining phase problems with speakers etc. since I already have the MT1.
https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/neutrik-nti-minirator-mr1-portable-533313783
And it would fit in my pocket.

 

[NoisyIndividual]

Fluke 187 does have db measurement capabillity .

Yes I know, I wasn't referring to that, it was in reply to the posters link to a cheap multimeter.
The whole point of this thread is the Fluke 8060A was good at dB measurements.

They are now old and failing, there is now a viable alternative in the ML1.

Which you can put in your pocket and shin up all the ladders you want.

 

[Tubetec]

I have a 187 and its not failing , the 189 is the one that fails due to memory battery leakage ,
EM7000 meter also has a db scale ,

 

[Gold]

If you want wide bandwidth ACV measurement with dB like an 8060A the EM7000 gets you that. An analog meter beats a digital meter in many instances. It’s a decent substitute for an 8060A.

 

[NoisyIndividual]

I made a typo and corrected it in my last post, It is the 8060A that are failing, not the 187.

The EM7000 meter my well have a dB scale but when you are trying to calibrate a compressor, it is far more useful to have a readout in dB's on an LCD than trying to read some cheap dodgy meter printout that is highly likely to be totally innacurate.

 

[Gold]

trying to read some cheap dodgy meter printout that is highly likely to be totally innacurate.

You might try reading the published specs before slagging it. It is a quality instrument.

 

[NoisyIndividual]

If someone is paying you by the hour for your work, you need to find the most time efficient way of conducting your work .

It is all very well having a lab full of test gear you can read values off and calculate stuff, but at the end of the day you need to get the job done quickly, and accurately.
And be confident you have done things properly within an hour or so, rather than the many days many people here seem to have on their hands.