the Poor Man 660 support thread

[radiance]

The Heater-psu-boards  picks up a lot of noise from the toroid, ....

I don't get this...but I'm trying here> the slow start heater boards are picking up hum from the toroid which translates in heater ripple or something like that?
I thought that picking up hum was reserved for audio connections only .


O, and that's very tasty idylldon!!

 

[mich]

Wow Again!  i think Virile is the best word for both of your units...

 

[bernbrue]

Congrats,
idylldon´s and inputoutput`s poormen are hot candidates for "DIY of the week", what do I say, "DIY of the year". Though I love mine very much, I´m a little bit jealous of your "old style" gear. Excellent!!
regards
Bernd

 

[idylldon]

Thanks for the kind words, folks.  As for being creative, well, I couldn't possibly have done this without analag's amazing design creativity and [silent:arts'] extremely detailed and well-thought-out PCB work.  Kudos to both of you (and all those who have shared their knowledge on this project while working through the build) for sharing this amazing compressor with those of us who still find the design part of electronics beyond our grasp.  My studio wouldn't be nearly as well equipped without your kindness and willingness to help.  Thank you very much.

My DIY score since joining this forum:

6 -- 1176
2 -- GSSL (w/turbo)
2 -- LA2A
1 -- Poorman 670
1 -- Two-channel Neve BA183 line amps used to balance the output of my Neotek when I want that certain color.

All of these are serving me quite well in my studio. 

Next up?  Guavatone's Orange 86 project.  Once my wallet has a chance to recover from the 670, I'll be building a dual-channel 86.

BTW, one of my IRF840s is getting quite a bit hotter than the other one.  Is this normal?  All the voltages are right on and I think everything's OK, but I thought I'd ask.  Since my power supply is mounted upside down, I'll most likely add a small quiet fan to help move some air through the enclosed part of the chassis.

Cheers,
--
Don

 

[syn]

inputoutput and idylldon  , very inspiring and good looking units.
very, very tasty.

 

[elektrovolt]

yes, they are looking good ! after a while, I just ordered all the missing parts (rotary switch resistors, heater pcb stuff etc.) so I hope mine will be finished soon.

 

[edcorusa]

Just to let you know that EDCOR has setup a section on their website for Project Specials and has added the transformer packages for the PM660 and PM670.

Product Specials

 

[[silent:arts]]

cool  8)

 

[W DeMarco]

Im a bit confused on the Q1 isolated from ground.  How do I accomplish this isolation?  From the looks of the layout I just solder it in.

I searched but couldnt find out how to mount Q1, can someone please explain?

 

[[silent:arts]]

Just solder it in.
Mount it isolated to the heat sink.
that is the point to save your live if touching ...
(no harm to the circuit if mounted uninsulated)

 

[elektrovolt]

some pictures of my project, still awaiting the LM338 for the heater psu board.

http://picasaweb.google.com/geefmijmaarelektro/Poorman67Project#

 

[W DeMarco]

Just solder it in.
Mount it isolated to the heat sink.
that is the point to save your live if touching ...
(no harm to the circuit if mounted uninsulated)

Im still unclear?  What does it mean to mount Q1 isolated from the heatsink?  And we are talking about Q1 on the audio boards?

Sorry, it does sound important.

 

[idylldon]

Just solder it in.
Mount it isolated to the heat sink.
that is the point to save your live if touching ...
(no harm to the circuit if mounted uninsulated)

Im still unclear?  What does it mean to mount Q1 isolated from the heatsink?  And we are talking about Q1 on the audio boards?

Sorry, it does sound important.

There are insulation "kits" used to isolate regulators and the like from heatsinks.  Basically, they consist of an electrically non-conductive gasket (fishpaper, mica, etc.) that goes between the regulator and the heatsink and a sleeve ("top hat" washer) that electrically isolates the screw that connects the regulator to the heatsink (or you can just use a nylon screw/nut instead of using the sleeve, though some folks don't approve of this method).  The result is the regulator is isolated electrically from the heatsink but still passes the heat on to it.  To test, you just check continuity from the mounting screw to the heatsink.  If there's any connection, then the isolation isn't working. 

Cheers,
--
Don

 

[Knarleybass]

I am still working on mine, turns out I need another power toroid, would anyone by chance have an extra for sale?

thanks

Howard

 

[W DeMarco]

OK, Got it.  So until I do that just don't touch that Q1 or heatsink.  Fired the beast up and have perfect voltage across the board!  Under load right now!  Gonna test her out.

 

[Moby]

(or you can just use a nylon screw/nut instead of using the sleeve, though some folks don't approve of this method)

Nylon is not suitable for this because it melts and loose tension. Thermal connection must be tight and it's possible only with metal part. Well, maybe Teflon screw can do the job but I never tried such a thing because ordinary m3 do the job perfectly  ;D

 

[W DeMarco]

One more Question,  I should set the rv3 and rv6 to Analags voltages[RV3 is adjusted to -2.4V and RV6 is set to -4.5V] on page 20 then zero out the meter with a 5k trimmer?  This babys sweet like MONEY ;D

 

[kazper]

I am still working on mine, turns out I need another power toroid, would anyone by chance have an extra for sale?

thanks



Howard

Edcor sells a standard type power transformer also.

XPWR063.

Not to pimp out any distributors etc...
http://www.edcorusa.com/Products/ShowProduct.aspx?ID=685

 

[elektrovolt]

I have this toroidal power transformer, and it has 2x 115 volt wires (2x white, 2x yellow)
I would like to connect it as a 230 volt transformer, does it matter wich wires I connect together ?

 

[stereokillah]

hi,
probably the first white with the second yellow.