sonicwarrior
Well-known member
So: What do you think of Veroboard?
The Veroboard question
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clintrubber
Well-known member
I'd replace cheap with quick.
That's the board with strips, right ? I've only used it once, after that went with the islands-only type.
Cheers,
Peter
sonicwarrior
Well-known member
Ok, I thought you mean the stripes stuff with "Veroboard"
and thought the "island type" is called "Breadboard". :?
What I dislike on the stripes stuff is to cut the routes.
What I dislike on the island stuff is to solder the routes (I'm too stupid for that, I've never managed to get any route. But I'm using 0,5 mm solder so maybe I would need 1 mm for the tons of solder you need for a route [which would be the next thing I dislike :razz: ]).
The only thing I use for smaller circuits is a solderless breadboard.
For other things I prefer a nice looking PCB as I'm in no hurry for any of my DIY projects (which is a bad thing of course for the ones waiting for a PCB from me [Calrec especially], but I also want to do a nice non-crap job on the PCB and therefore prefer to wait and let the PCB evolve the more knowledge I get).
and thought the "island type" is called "Breadboard". :?
What I dislike on the stripes stuff is to cut the routes.
What I dislike on the island stuff is to solder the routes (I'm too stupid for that, I've never managed to get any route. But I'm using 0,5 mm solder so maybe I would need 1 mm for the tons of solder you need for a route [which would be the next thing I dislike :razz: ]).
The only thing I use for smaller circuits is a solderless breadboard.
For other things I prefer a nice looking PCB as I'm in no hurry for any of my DIY projects (which is a bad thing of course for the ones waiting for a PCB from me [Calrec especially], but I also want to do a nice non-crap job on the PCB and therefore prefer to wait and let the PCB evolve the more knowledge I get).
clintrubber
Well-known member
[quote author="sonicwarrior"]Ok, I thought you mean the stripes stuff with "Veroboard"
and throught the "island type" is called "Breadboard". :? [/quote]
You may be right, I'm not sure who's actually what. I'm using 'Vero' as a generic description, like: "doing a breadboard on Vero" :roll: :wink:
Use the leads of the components themselves and if that doesn't completely do it use those long small solid core sticks/wires (for lack of a better description)
Cheers
and throught the "island type" is called "Breadboard". :? [/quote]
You may be right, I'm not sure who's actually what. I'm using 'Vero' as a generic description, like: "doing a breadboard on Vero" :roll: :wink:
I'm with you on that.
NOOOOO, you're not making the 'lines' with solder!
Use the leads of the components themselves and if that doesn't completely do it use those long small solid core sticks/wires (for lack of a better description)
Those white ones ? Yes, for small non-critical stuff.
Cheers
sonicwarrior
Well-known member
[quote author="clintrubber"]
Use the leads of the components themselves[/quote]
Hehehehehehe, can't stop laughing about me. :wink:
[quote author="clintrubber"]if that doesn't completely do it use those long small solid core sticks/wires (for lack of a better description)[/quote]
Maybe copper wire (1mm) with silver on it?
Good that we wrote about it.
Use the leads of the components themselves[/quote]
Hehehehehehe, can't stop laughing about me. :wink:
[quote author="clintrubber"]if that doesn't completely do it use those long small solid core sticks/wires (for lack of a better description)[/quote]
Maybe copper wire (1mm) with silver on it?
Good that we wrote about it.
Mailliw
Well-known member
I have no experience using it, but I have noticed people mounting heavy components like transformers on it. It isn't very strong with all those holes
clintrubber
Well-known member
[quote author="Mailliw"]I have no experience using it, but I have noticed people mounting heavy components like transformers on it. It isn't very strong with all those holes [/quote]
Not wanting to defend Vero till the bitter end, but you can't blame the Vero for that. Signal-TXs will be OK, but why mounting power-TXs on them ?
'Normal' PCBs are often seen with front panel pots & rear panel sockets directly mounted. That's not good w.r.t. relibility, but we don't blame the PCB for that, right ? Same then for Vero & TXs... It's the constructor!
[/quote]Not wanting to defend Vero till the bitter end, but you can't blame the Vero for that. Signal-TXs will be OK, but why mounting power-TXs on them ?
'Normal' PCBs are often seen with front panel pots & rear panel sockets directly mounted. That's not good w.r.t. relibility, but we don't blame the PCB for that, right ? Same then for Vero & TXs... It's the constructor!
Vero is the choice of heroes :grin:
The only thing I don't like about veroboard is that it can be a pain in the ass to correct a mistake, e.g. reversed polarity or wrong connection. Once the component legs are bent and soldered in place it becomes really difficult to unsolder them.
The only thing I don't like about veroboard is that it can be a pain in the ass to correct a mistake, e.g. reversed polarity or wrong connection. Once the component legs are bent and soldered in place it becomes really difficult to unsolder them.
clintrubber
Well-known member
[quote author="Rossi"]Vero is the choice of heroes :grin: [/quote]
Stay tuned for some pics of a few sick spaghetti boards we did at work before we put everything into an IC
Or look at the nice stuff from Jurgen H., he makes complete gear based on Vero.
Stay tuned for some pics of a few sick spaghetti boards we did at work before we put everything into an IC
Or look at the nice stuff from Jurgen H., he makes complete gear based on Vero.
Back when I was more active designing and bread boarding stuff, I designed my own dedicated PCB with +/- PS rails running down either edge of the narrow PCB with a hole pattern for standard DIP spacing. Each IC pin had something like 4 or 5 holes for attaching leaded components. A ground pattern ran along both edged and between IC footprints so it was easy to decouple PS, etc.
I used many of these over the years to breadboard circuits and larger designs could combine several of these.
More recently dealing with microprocessor stuff, I used the more generic breadboard, but recent design efforts are less of a "lets see what happens" than confirming something works to plan. With micro development, you can often jump-start the design process with a demo PCB has has the basic glue and a small prototyping area.
I must warn you, the digital side has it's advantages... but I may be doomed to upgrading software for the rest of my days.
JR
I used many of these over the years to breadboard circuits and larger designs could combine several of these.
More recently dealing with microprocessor stuff, I used the more generic breadboard, but recent design efforts are less of a "lets see what happens" than confirming something works to plan. With micro development, you can often jump-start the design process with a demo PCB has has the basic glue and a small prototyping area.
I must warn you, the digital side has it's advantages... but I may be doomed to upgrading software for the rest of my days.
JR
Ptownkid
Well-known member
I'm much happier just etching a board
thermionic
Well-known member
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I don't know what I'd do without Vero board.
A few weeks back, I built a stereo 5-band discrete / LC Eq on Vero - fun it was not! It works ok though. The interesting thing will be to compare noise performance when I put the design onto a PCB (not my design btw) in the coming weeks.
I use a 4mm drill bit to cut tracks - works pretty well.
The best tip I can give for working on Vero is to plan as much of the layout as you can before you start. It's easy to paint yourself into a corner. At this point I will admit to forgetting PSU bypass caps and the like, so I've had to forge "frames" made from tinned copper wire hanging off the side of the board to accomodate them!
When working on Vero, I sometimes wonder if I could've made an avante-garde sculptor!
Another important tip is to keep multi-coloured pens handy. Take a ruler and draw out your main power and ground lines in respective colours.
Always remember to bleep-test any breaks in the tracks - I haven't had a problem with the 4mm drill, but in previous times, I can remember microscopic hairline wires that are tricky to see without a magnifier, so do use the bleeper!
Justin
A few weeks back, I built a stereo 5-band discrete / LC Eq on Vero - fun it was not! It works ok though. The interesting thing will be to compare noise performance when I put the design onto a PCB (not my design btw) in the coming weeks.
I use a 4mm drill bit to cut tracks - works pretty well.
The best tip I can give for working on Vero is to plan as much of the layout as you can before you start. It's easy to paint yourself into a corner. At this point I will admit to forgetting PSU bypass caps and the like, so I've had to forge "frames" made from tinned copper wire hanging off the side of the board to accomodate them!
When working on Vero, I sometimes wonder if I could've made an avante-garde sculptor!
Another important tip is to keep multi-coloured pens handy. Take a ruler and draw out your main power and ground lines in respective colours.
Always remember to bleep-test any breaks in the tracks - I haven't had a problem with the 4mm drill, but in previous times, I can remember microscopic hairline wires that are tricky to see without a magnifier, so do use the bleeper!
Justin
bcarso
Well-known member
For very noncritical low frequency stuff I may use plain 0.1" centers grid perforated board, and teflon tubing where component leads, and bus wire if needed, cross.
Otherwise the Twin Industries groundplane one side, plated-through pad-per-hole stuff is good for through-hole components. The drawbacks include a difficulty in seeing what one has done due to the fairly high reflectivity from the pads on the bottom, although this is much a function of my deteriorating eyesight.
I have never used the white things or Vero (EDIT: the strip type) board.
When I started as a salaried employee at Harman there was a guy in the adjacent cubicle who was developing* a product using two lashed-together white things, stuffed to the max with components. Since this individual was also a regal PITA I found my impish nature emerging, and contemplated getting a couple duplicate white things and a big pile of similar components and the little jumper wires. I would abstract the actual unmolested kludge and hide away for safekeeping, and leave the piles of parts and the two empty white things on his bench to find in the morning.
Fortunately my "good" inner voices prevailed and I never did this. But ooohhh did he have it coming! :twisted:
*(I hesitate to say designing, because he could barely find his ass with both hands, and Plunkett was very generously "mentoring" the man)
Otherwise the Twin Industries groundplane one side, plated-through pad-per-hole stuff is good for through-hole components. The drawbacks include a difficulty in seeing what one has done due to the fairly high reflectivity from the pads on the bottom, although this is much a function of my deteriorating eyesight.
I have never used the white things or Vero (EDIT: the strip type) board.
When I started as a salaried employee at Harman there was a guy in the adjacent cubicle who was developing* a product using two lashed-together white things, stuffed to the max with components. Since this individual was also a regal PITA I found my impish nature emerging, and contemplated getting a couple duplicate white things and a big pile of similar components and the little jumper wires. I would abstract the actual unmolested kludge and hide away for safekeeping, and leave the piles of parts and the two empty white things on his bench to find in the morning.
Fortunately my "good" inner voices prevailed and I never did this. But ooohhh did he have it coming! :twisted:
*(I hesitate to say designing, because he could barely find his ass with both hands, and Plunkett was very generously "mentoring" the man)
[quote author="Ptownkid"]I'm much happier just etching a board[/quote]
I'm with Ptownkid on this one - time is few and far between for me... i'll get the board done in eagle and send it off to olimex to make a board for me.
My chances of the board ending up like the schematic are very high. However, one mistake on the schematic can be painful to correct - still doable though
I'm with Ptownkid on this one - time is few and far between for me... i'll get the board done in eagle and send it off to olimex to make a board for me.
My chances of the board ending up like the schematic are very high. However, one mistake on the schematic can be painful to correct - still doable though
clintrubber
Well-known member
As it seems Veroboard is indeed the stuff with the striplines:
I'm not into that, I should have said plain 0.1" centers grid perforated board (the right description by Brad)
i.s.o. Veroboard, like for instance this kind (which is by Vero btw...):
Bye,
Peter
I'm not into that, I should have said plain 0.1" centers grid perforated board (the right description by Brad)
i.s.o. Veroboard, like for instance this kind (which is by Vero btw...):
Bye,
Peter
smallbutfine
Well-known member
:grin: I really like Veroboard!
(I think a 'breadboard' is something else - isn't it that prototyping plastic thing? Don't know...)
But i don't use the stripboard version alot - i prefer single pads. But nevertheless, the stripboards are nice to keep things simple (bussing).
Invaluable for instant fun, fast psu building, prototyping...
Kind regards,
Martin :thumb:
(I think a 'breadboard' is something else - isn't it that prototyping plastic thing? Don't know...)
But i don't use the stripboard version alot - i prefer single pads. But nevertheless, the stripboards are nice to keep things simple (bussing).
Invaluable for instant fun, fast psu building, prototyping...
Kind regards,
Martin :thumb:
breadboard was literally a board with fahnestock clips and such...
JR
JR
bcarso
Well-known member
Frank Kelly used to joke that he had need of a Fahnestock-to-waveguide adapter.
blandman74
Well-known member
I use stripboard but I sure wish that I could find an inexpensive version that is tinned, and can withstand a little desoldering when I inevitably make a mistake.
By the way, if this has already been posted, sorry, but might as well provide it. It's veroboard layout software for ultra-simple guitar pedals and such. No schematic stuff or routing, though.
http://www.storm-software.co.yu/diy/index.php?project=software
By the way, if this has already been posted, sorry, but might as well provide it. It's veroboard layout software for ultra-simple guitar pedals and such. No schematic stuff or routing, though.
http://www.storm-software.co.yu/diy/index.php?project=software
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