through-hole desoldering iron/tool/station recommendations in 2024?

[zzzzz]

Title says everything!

We have a Tenma branded version of the Aoyue 474 desoldering station -- it's older though. Ours doesn't have digital readout / temp control is manual. Seems to be "inspired" by the older black Hakko units.

It is "just okay." I've had to replace the gun once and replace various parts multiple times a year. When it works, it works well, but it clogs easily and is hard to clean (never really gets fully clean). The tips are non-standard with the tube/pipe built in and can be hard to find.

The vacuum has also become weak and unreliable over the years, even after replacing the entire gun. Probably was around $120 USD, so I guess you get what you pay for. Sometimes it's easier to just use a classic blue plunger pump or wick instead...




I'm looking for a replacement / upgrade. Mostly using for removing components from PCBs (caps, ICs). I like Hakko products (I use an 888 iron) but their current options are pricy pricey.

TL;DR: My budget is around $300 USD but ideally less. Does anyone have any insight for units? I know regular iron tech has come a long way in terms of T12 style units and such.

I've never used a self-contained desoldering tool with the vacuum built in like the Hakko FR301, only station-style units.

some readily available options I've found:

• Hakko FR301-03/P self-contained "portable" unit.
  • $280 USD from Hakko, and many on eBay from Japan for around $200 shipped which would be awesome but they are 100VAC...
  • there are some clones styled after this for under $150 on Amazon and eBay

• Yihua 948 station (and various clones) appears to be a successor to the 474 style unit I have.
  • $120 USD on sale from Jeff Bezos.
  • Not sure if this would be any better or worse than the mediocre station I currently have.

• Hakko FM-2024 kit
  • $528+ from Hakko, which is more than I'd like to spend, but if it's night-and-day difference I'd consider it

• Goot TP100AS
  • $319 for "110V-130V" from Howard, bunch for around $150 on eBay from Japan but again they're 100VAC...
  • looks like a clone of the old style Hakko

• Den-On SC7000Z
  • $395 USD. little more than I want to spend.

 

[TLRT]

I used Aoyue and the FR300/301, All had clogging and short lifetime tip problems, don't buy the FR300,it had a motor design failure, they stopped the production already(pump motors burning down,no replacement). Now I have the Hakko FR410 which is perfect(not cheap) they solved the clogging issues,tip lifetime is good too.

 

[pucho812]

Just got a yihua 948-II from Jeff bazos.
It’s my latest. It’s quite good for the money I spent.
At a previous job we had wellers and hakko’s. They were way more money but not worth it to me.

 

[Gold]

I tried the "948" style desoldering stations. I found they were close to single use. Once I cleaned the gun I could never get it back together with good vacuum pressure. I tried a few and gave up.

I use a Haako FR301. It's about a million times better IMO. They all need regular cleaning but I've never had a problem with the FR301. There is also support from Haakko USA. Every part is available as a spare part and Hakko will repair them.

 

[Rob Flinn]

I use an FR301, & I'm happy with it.

 

[Rusan]

I know a repair tech who's owned or tried everything imaginable, and he says nothing compares to his FR301.

I have the 948 Upgraded, and like Pucho said, it's great for the price but not a top-tier professional-grade unit. I'm still quite fond of my ancient Hakko 707; I just enjoy the convenience of the 948's soldering iron and desoldering gun in one unit. There's a known issue with some 948 guns, in that the plastic melts where the heating element attaches. Mine is almost new (purchased this year) and I've had no problems, so perhaps this has been resolved.

 

[Gold]

There's a known issue with some 948 guns, in that the plastic melts where the heating element attaches. Mine is almost new (purchased this year) and I've had no problems, so perhaps this has been resolved.

When I use them I can use them all day. Recapping old stuff. Maybe they just can’t be left on for long stretches?

 

[Brian Roth]

I bought a Goot TP100 approx 15 years ago and it gave good service....until it feel off the bench a maybe a year ago. Now on my second. The Denon used to be popular with several techs I know.

A few years ago I was on a project and someone had a Hakko FR301 (or similar? I just recall the blue and yellow colors). It felt a bit awkward to me....probably because I was used to the slimmer Goot.

Bri

 

[thelivingroom]

I’ve been using the FR-301 for over four years now, and couldn’t be happier. I’ve recapped my Otari console (around 7,000 caps), Neotek 10-channel sidecar, Farfisa, and numerous pieces of older outboard in my rack, with zero issues. Every couple of PCB’s I empty the reservoir and clear out the tip, and change the filter periodically. I’ve found on older PCB’s that are full of flux that cleaning the old flux off first keeps the tip and tube clear for much longer.

The stand that comes with it is terrible. I use the Hakko 633-01 and it’s fine.

 

[zzzzz]

I bought a Goot TP100 approx 15 years ago and it gave good service....until it feel off the bench a maybe a year ago. Now on my second. The Denon used to be popular with several techs I know.

A few years ago I was on a project and someone had a Hakko FR301 (or similar? I just recall the blue and yellow colors). It felt a bit awkward to me....probably because I was used to the slimmer Goot.

Bri

Howard Electronics likes the Den-on so much that they have a entire history page about it lol… https://www.howardelectronics.com/history-of-den-on-sc7000z/

Where did you get your new Goot unit? The price difference between the 120 VAC from a US seller ($320) versus $150ish for 100 VAC ones in Japan (shipped!) seems to be a pretty crazy range…

 

[Brian Roth]

Howard Electronics likes the Den-on so much that they have a entire history page about it lol… https://www.howardelectronics.com/history-of-den-on-sc7000z/

Where did you get your new Goot unit? The price difference between the 120 VAC from a US seller ($320) versus $150ish for 100 VAC ones in Japan (shipped!) seems to be a pretty crazy range…

My original came from Howard as did the replacement. When getting the replacement, I saw the 100V option and decided against it because of the need (in my mind) to have to pack and carry some sort of step down transformer. Of course, I was still traveling for service calls at the time. Thinking back , that was two-ish years ago now. I have completely stopped traveling cuz I'm too old any more for that sort of "fun"! In 2024, some sort of transformer sitting on the bench would be OK for me.

Bri

 

[Rob Flinn]

The Denon used to be popular with several techs I know.

I think one of the reasons the Denon was popular is because I believe it will blow or suck & therefore it can be used for small surface mount components too. This it pretty useful for field service, where one wants to reduce the amount of kit ones taking.

 

[beatnik]

+1 for the FR-301

 

[Electrobumps]

It may be a bit to close to the Aoyue, in quality and budget is the ZD-915. I have a friend who uses this. I asked if he had done any Grayhill switches. He said, "Tons of them, works a treat".

Some people upgrade the fan and do other mods. If the FR-301 is out of budget for some people the ZD-915 is worth looking at.

 

[zzzzz]

My original came from Howard as did the replacement. When getting the replacement, I saw the 100V option and decided against it because of the need (in my mind) to have to pack and carry some sort of step down transformer. Of course, I was still traveling for service calls at the time. Thinking back , that was two-ish years ago now. I have completely stopped traveling cuz I'm too old any more for that sort of "fun"! In 2024, some sort of transformer sitting on the bench would be OK for me.

Bri

Yeah this thing is going to live on a bench. I think I have an old 120VAC to 100VAC bucking transformer around... much to think about.

edit: this person on Reddit disassembled and measured a USA FR-301 and a Japanese FR-301 and found the only difference was that the Japanese version has a single 10R resistor and the USA has two 300R resistors for motor speed control.

have both the usa model and the Japan model. i took them apart the only real difference is the resistors that control the motor speed. every other part down to little smd's is the same. the Japanese model has a single 10ohm 1watt resistor to control the motor speed the US model has 2 300ohm 1 watt resistors to account for the slightly higher voltage. you can de solder the 10ohm resistor and replace it with the two 300ohm resistors and then its the us model. i measured the resistance and inductance on the heater and they are basically identical inductance is within 0.1uh and resistance is within 1.7ohm which isn't going to matter as its well within manufacturing tolerance difference for a heater element. 34.2ohm vs 35.9ohm. the motors are identical.

basically if you run the Japanese one on us 120v the only thing that happens is the pump motor just runs a bit faster. if you swap out the resistors they run the same.

video showing the Japanese one running a bit fast on 120v. after i swapped the resistors they run the same.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/QJkksQsywG7gAbHu7

 

[JeffKall]

Title says everything!

I use a Yihua 948 purchased a couple years ago (before they did the upgrade to include the soldering pencil) purchased from Amazon for just under $120 …

I don’t desolder often … but this station has saved me from myself a couple of times when my build enthusiasm got ahead of my “check twice … solder once” credo !

It has excellent temperature control, a good vacuum and cleans up easily !

It has never lifted a pad or a trace … and when properly used it cleans both sides of through hole traces very well …

I have not yet run into a reason to complain about it … other than when it beeps to alert that it has reached temp it scares the bejesus out of my dog in the same manner a smoke detector does !

I certainly recommend the 948 !

Best Regards !

 

[amplexus]

You cannot use the Hakko FM-2024 without the parent station, which is considerably above your budget.

Given your budget the FR-301 is your only good choice IMO

I’ve got an FR410, had an older Hakko station and have used a 301 very often (i also keep a 301 as a backup/portable)… you simply won’t do better for performance and reliability as well as availability of spare parts and nozzles than the Hakko- esp for your budget.

I’ve done recaps of a couple dozen console strips in my lap with the 301 before and it’s just a dream to work with in the field. I swear it has nearly the suction of my 410 station.

 

[Ike Zimbel]

Howard Electronics likes the Den-on so much that they have a entire history page about it lol… https://www.howardelectronics.com/history-of-den-on-sc7000z/

Where did you get your new Goot unit? The price difference between the 120 VAC from a US seller ($320) versus $150ish for 100 VAC ones in Japan (shipped!) seems to be a pretty crazy range…

I'm one of the techs that Brian knows that has been using the Den-on SC7000Z. Since 2002. I still own two of them. They are the BEST desoldering tool that I have used yet. Changed all 2248 switches in a DDA Profile, years ago, and every one of them fell out of the board after desoldering. Changed 102 of those switches, an assortment of DPDT, 4PDT, 6PDT types, in an hour once.
Like any desoldering tool, keeping them cleaned and well maintained is essential. You need to clean them EVERY time you use them, before turning them off.
Over the years, I have replaced several parts in my Den-ons...which means that parts are available, and can be replaced by the user (assuming you know what you're doing...).
Bought mine from Howard Electronics.

 

[Renzo]

Weller is the best for me, I don't know if it is sold in the United States, mine from 30 years ago still works great, just keep it clean

 

[inkster]

Gootwick Goot TAIYO Desoldering Wick Soldering Remover 2.0mm x 30m CP-20B is amazing stuff...never turn on my desoldering iron once I started using it...the larger size isn't recommended for pcb work.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/284436964789