Tube Mic Power Supply Enclosure Design

GroupDIY Audio Forum

Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Awsome !!

Like the round holes.

And that binder connector looks really like it's 50yr old


(why four holes for the xlr btw ???)

gr
arno
 
Arno said:
(why four holes for the xlr btw ???)

gr
arno


That was my screw-up. I put them on the opposite sides in the CAD file.
So, when I got the proto, I had to drill them in the right place.

Neutrik's panel-hole dimensions in their datasheets are as if you're looking at the BACK of a panel, not the FRONT.
Still, I should have physically checked an XLR connector to be sure, but I didn't...that's life.

The production units will not have this error.
 
Skylar said:
The production units will not have this error.

And even if they did, they would have been masked by the xlr anyway :)

I was just wondering if there was a practical reason for it... but I do realized now that either way you turn an xlr, the mounting holes will always be the same (unless it's inside out  :p )
 
The IEC cutout the picture looks like you are using a IEC with a built in fuse holder.  I need to check this but I think C14 types can have different cutout sizes.  It might be interesting to spec the IEC cutout for one with the built in EMI filter


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEC_connector

 
 
Gus said:
The IEC cutout the picture looks like you are using a IEC with a built in fuse holder.   I need to check this but I think C14 types can have different cutout sizes.  It might be interesting to spec the IEC cutout for one with the built in EMI filter


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEC_connector

 


Great idea, Gus.

In spec'ing the IEC hole, I've looked through datasheets on about 10 or 12 different brands/models of fused IEC connectors.
It's true, there are slight differences in the cut-out holes for these products.
What I ended up doing is choosing a size that would work for a few of the most common fused IEC inlets out there.
Earlier in the thread, I listed which ones the hole will work with...I even bought a few of these and test-fitted them against the prototype.

http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=32809.msg403237#msg403237

I believe one of those on the list has a built-in EMI filter.


I think it would be a great idea to look at some other EMI-filtered IEC inlets, and refine the cut-out hole as you said.
I think this is an application where such a thing is almost a necessity...definitely a good idea.

Of course, you can always get the EMI filter separately.
364-1047-ND
562-851-05/5
 
Hi Skylar, nice, thanks.  Can you share the exact name brand of the paint, please?  Was it aerosol spray can?  Where did you get it? 

(PS: I've used Rustoleum many times with mediocre results, and never had that nice of a finish, plus it stinks for months afterwards.  :mad:  Another problem, it doesn't leave a very hard finish, as you can dig into it/scrape it off with your fingernail, at least for the first couple months... it may get harder over long periods.  I did a few mic PSU cases with it, parts of my house, etc, and I would not recommend it for audio cases.  For the house, it's so-so OK for exterior metal work, like metal trim on the house, but  I've also seen rust develop underneath it many times, so I'm ready to try something else.)
 
I used Rustoleum Advanced Forumula Hammered paint in aerosol form.
I bought it at Lowes at ~$0.50 more expensive than the regular hammered aerosol.
It's not a standard looking can—no lid and it has a handgun-like trigger.

I would recommend at least 4 coats.
I used 3 coats, and I think you could scrape the finish off with a screwdriver pretty easily.
Maybe add one more coat than I did for extra security.

It seems like the "advanced formula" dries/hardens quicker.
On the next one I paint, however, I will wait one week to let it fully cure.

There's also the brush-on quart size. That might provide a thicker finish, but it won't be as easy to apply.

Non-U.S. :
Hammerite brand, I believe, is more-or-less the same thing if Rustoleum is not available in your area.



Another option for the hammered look would be powder-coating.
Powder-coaters can easily do this type of finish and probably provide a better color selection than Rustoleum.
I would imagine that a powder-coated finish will be more resilient than spray-on aerosol also.

 
Yep, Hammerite seems to be like that. Guide says it needs 4 weeks to reach final "hardness". The case looks freaking awesome by the way ;)
 
I was reading up on a gtr-pedal DIY site where the guy applies paint then bakes @ 100F or 150F in an old toaster oven for 1/2 hr... repeat X times for the number of coats and any screened nomenclature... Then finish with ployureathane and bake again... steel-wool in between..

rinse, repeat.

I was going to try that on the enclosure with the hammerite finish...

I think roughing it up first with coarse-grit sandpaper like skylar mentioned will also make a better bond.
 
Skylar said:
I used Rustoleum Advanced Forumula Hammered paint in aerosol form.

Thanks.  I was using the regular Rustoleum...  It will stop smelling eventually after many months, and it does get harder.  I had to leave my previous mic PSU boxes outside in my back yard for a couple weeks, as they stank up the garage so bad I couldn't spend time in there.

Good points about powder coating.  I'll look into that.


 
I will probably buy 2 at $40 or less for the MK7 project.

If they were like $20 to $30 I'd probably buy a couple more for other mic projects.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top