it's labor intensive, but here is the procedure:
1. purchase a piece of strip aluminum (you can get this at lowes, hobby lobby, home depot, michaels, crafts etc). get the thinnest one - it'll come in about 3-4 foot sections.
2. i sand it with 100 grit all over.
3. then i stamp it... it's going to take some getting used to...as far as spacing..keep in mind that you'll need to drill a hole in between each set of words; on both sides of the label. take this into account before you cut it.
4. i cut mine on a vise with a hacksaw, but a pair of good snips or a break will do a good job too.
5. i would drill your holes first, cause it's easier to hold onto the stock.
6. then i grind down the edges of each label....get a cup of cold water cause it can get real hot on the fingers.
7. after i smooth edges with a bench grinder...and i have the holes drilled, then i put the lable on the enclosure and align it in the right place - KEEP IN MIND THAT YOU HAVE TO DRILL THE ENCLOSURE AND MAKE SURE THAT THE HOLES FOR THE LABELS DONT INTEFERE WITH ANY OTHER PARTS OF THE DEVICE. Also keep in mind room needed for knobs. ive done this before, where i didnt have room for the knob because i mounted the label too close to the potentiometer post. it's best to mount all the pots with knobs and jacks and any other hardware before you align and affix your labels.
8. i then take a pencil or sharpie and mark the wholes through the label onto the chassis. make sure the labels are straight.
9. then i drill the enclosure with a drill press where the marks are made.
10. i then take the label and rivet it to the enclosure... and voila you're done.
very labor intensive, but looks really mean and industrial, and the lettering will never wear off.
hint - it's going to take some getting used to spacing your metal punches for your lettering. practice. also, pay attention to your spelling. dont get into a hurry....
a light strike with a maul does the best job in a clear imprint..but a regular hammer will do in a pinch.
i do mine on concrete, but a good solid anvil will work too.
the metal strip will start to curve with each letter done, turn it around and straighten it out on wood....so that the lettering surface doesnt get marred.
good luck.
and yes, regular rivets are great...make sure you get'em long enough for the thickness of your chassis and label with room to spare. dont forget that it'll stick out on the back end... and the hole should just be big enough for the rivet to stick through, too big and the riveting will come out.
casey