Warm Audio WA-84

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Polystyrene has a 240°C melting point, and is susceptible to solvents. Try out on a styrofoam cup :)
As these caps are often not potted, or use metallized foil, but use metal foil, alternate with polystyrene film, liquids may enter between the layers, the cap may have kicked the bucket.
I've ordered C0G/NP0 caps to replace all polystyren. Will desolder them, clean the board and then solder the ceramic ones...
470pF, 5pF and 15pF are present in the WA84. I've also ordered 1uF and 4,7uF in Nichicon Fine Gold to try instead of those tantalums
 
In the meantime you can desolder jest the 5pf one... I think those Nichicons are meant to block DC in the audio patch but thats ok :) If you want to "calm down" the sound just change the C5 cap. This way the transistor will "receive electrons" not as fast as from tantalum cap, causing high frequencies to be "slower". For C8 I think the tantalum is better because it filters "faster". All my Tbone SC450's are made this way, but hell, what do I know ;) Without the 5pf cap the mic should be just louder. Try it on the snare if you can ;)
 
In the meantime you can desolder jest the 5pf one... I think those Nichicons are meant to block DC in the audio patch but thats ok :) If you want to "calm down" the sound just change the C5 cap. This way the transistor will "receive electrons" not as fast as from tantalum cap, causing high frequencies to be "slower". For C8 I think the tantalum is better because it filters "faster". All my Tbone SC450's are made this way, but hell, what do I know ;)
C7 & C8 are Wima MKP 100nF to filter the PSU so I will let them as they are.
For the 5pF (C2) I have ordered C0G/NP0
For 15pF (C9) N0G/NP0 too (but this cap is only present on the WA84 pad)
C5 & C6 are filter/stocking caps > tantalum now but I will put Nichicon Fine Gold
C3 is the R source cap > tantalum now but I will put Nichicon Fine Gold
C4 is the coupling cap to OPT > tantalum now but I will put Nichicon Fine Gold

... and the Jfet is J112

To resume what's intalled now (WA84)
- tantalums for C3 - C4 - C5 - C6
- wima MKP for C7 - C8
- polystyren for C1 - C2 - C9 (C9 is not present on the original KM84 schem. but present for pad in the WA84)
 

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I would not touch C6 tantalum, its fine there. As for 1uf output - the tantalum will sound "stiffer" and more edgy, electrolytic soft and round, and film would be the most neutral
 
I would not touch C6 tantalum, its fine there. As for 1uf output - the tantalum will sound "stiffer" and more edgy, electrolytic soft and round, and film would be the most neutral
1uF film would never fit in this body anyway...
I will start by removing the polystyren's, clean the board (and try to take the coating off) and replace them with C0G/NP0... Then I will go further if needed and will leave C6 as long as it's ok.
Thank you for your advice 😉
 
1uF film would never fit in this body anyway...
I will start by removing the polystyren's, clean the board (and try to take the coating off) and replace them with C0G/NP0... Then I will go further if needed and will leave C6 as long as it's ok.
Thank you for your advice 😉

Don't forget the sh*tty lead-free solder... You need to add some good old PB, suck it off, clean, add again... repeat...

Sure, I did quite a few R87's which are very similar so... been there ;) Most of them ended up with another jfets btw...
 
Don't forget the sh*tty lead-free solder... You need to add some good old PB, suck it off, clean, add again... repeat...
I only use silver+lead solder (6% silver can't remember exactly the %). Iron set to 300° ~ 330° and fast soldering on delicate components
Sure, I did quite a few R87's which are very similar so... been there ;) Most of them ended up with another jfets btw...
J113 in place of J112 maybe ?
 
Quote
"I will start by removing the polystyrene's"

Polystyrene's are used because of the high tolerance to temprature drift, better than ceramics.
Just my 2 cents worth.
 
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Quote
"I will start by removing the polystyrene's"

Polystyrene's are used because of the high tolerance to temprature drift, better than ceramics.
Just my 2 cents worth.
Nothing beats C0G/NP0 ceramics. The drift you are related to are Class 2 ceramics (X7R, X5R etc.). These should not be used in the audio signal path and are what give ceramic capacitors their bad name. But this applies definitely NOT to C0G/NP0. Lots of information available on the net. Links available here on my website.
 

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