Yamaha PM2000 Help find this switch? (ALPS pushbutton) Schadow, Cannon etc

[JW]

Yup. We're on the same page here. Those brackets are perfect except for no threading. I used a couple self tapping screws on 2 channels that I replaced the input switch on. I expect after a long time they may need to be tightened again, but very solid for now.

One other annoying thing is the C&K switches (and Well Buying) have a little indentation on the very top of the plunger that seems to be just enough to bottom out the white plastic button on the chassis when switch is pushed in. I solved this by cutting a tiny piece of heat shrink tubing and setting it in the indentation.  This raises the height of the plunger ever so much so that the white button doesn't bottom out. Tight tolerances!
Also, both C&K switches I ordered got very rough feeling when plunged, after a few cycles. Strange. I like the feel of these a lot better https://www.mouser.com/productdetail/well-buying/t-s2aln4?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvxtGF7dlGNpj56%2Fa6fO%2FCaux%2F5vMOiNlo%3D Might be a little less sturdy looking but the feel is a lot better imo. And cheaper. And I already have a bunch of them.
So, your finding that bracket is going to make my board way more rad. Thanks Matt!

Also, buttons do push out of the top slightly more than previously. But with the super solid switch action and feel, it's almost more badass that they poke out a tiny bit more. 

 

[JW]

Also,

Matt, as per your pm, I'm having a bit of a hard time locating proper 5 mm LED's in the sea of LED's over at mouser. Do you happen to have a part number handy? Since you're already spoonfeeding me here.  Anyway as per schematic, original value of the series resistor is 820ohm 1 watt.

 

[Matt C]

So those Well Buying switches fit into the C&K brackets properly? Also, do you know what size of self tapping screw you used to make it work?

here are the LEDs I'm using - https://www.mouser.com/productdetail/859-ltl-307a

Now that you mention the existing 820 ohm resistor I'm realizing I might not be installing the LEDs in the most practical way.  I've been cutting that resistor out, soldering a new series resistor to one leg of the LED, and connecting it to the same two PCB pads as the old incandescent bulb.  I haven't examined the schematic/board layout recently but I've got to imagine there's a way to reuse the existing resistor.

 

[JW]

Yes the well buying switches fit the C&K brackets. Might wanna try them first before ordering 50 or something, though. Just to see the feel.

I don't know about the screws. I'm gonna go to the hardware store when more brackets arrive and we'll see what I come back with.

Thanks a bunch for the LED part number!

 

[Matt C]

Cool, I'll try those switches.

Those LEDs do look different than the original bulbs so test them out before you commit to it.  But I think they look nice.

 

[API]

I got a couple of those C&K F-series brackets, they seem to be almost perfect but there's one annoying difference - the original brackets have threaded mounting screw holes, whereas the C&K brackets don't (the holes are in the right place, but they are slightly smaller and not threaded.) So I think these brackets could be used but you'd need smaller screws with nuts on the back in order to mount the bracket in place.  Workable but annoying.

Its not realy annoying, the holes are small so you can tap them with the thread of your liking.
I have done it several times without problems, but you need to be careful not to overtight the screws when mounting.

 

[Matt C]

Its not realy annoying, the holes are small so you can tap them with the thread of your liking.
I have done it several times without problems, but you need to be careful not to overtight the screws when mounting.

I'll give that a shot, thanks

 

[JW]

So those Well Buying switches fit into the C&K brackets properly? Also, do you know what size of self tapping screw you used to make it work?

here are the LEDs I'm using - https://www.mouser.com/productdetail/859-ltl-307a

Now that you mention the existing 820 ohm resistor I'm realizing I might not be installing the LEDs in the most practical way.  I've been cutting that resistor out, soldering a new series resistor to one leg of the LED, and connecting it to the same two PCB pads as the old incandescent bulb.  I haven't examined the schematic/board layout recently but I've got to imagine there's a way to reuse the existing resistor.

Attached this part of the schematic. If we're using your mouser part number for example, of that amber LED, it's forward voltage is 2.1V from info on mouser page. Are you basically substituting LED for old bulb and adding 820ohm to drop voltage between +16V and bulb?

 

[Matt C]

Attached this part of the schematic. If we're using your mouser part number for example, of that amber LED, it's forward voltage is 2.1V from info on mouser page. Are you basically substituting LED for old bulb and adding 820ohm to drop voltage between +16V and bulb?

Yes, the old bulb gets replaced with the LED in series with a new 820 ohm resistor.  You need to remove the old resistor for it to work.  Then the switch acts to connect the cathode of the LED to ground, completing the circuit and turning on the LED.

I looked for a way to just reuse the 820 ohm resistor that's already there in the stock circuit, but there's no simple way to do it. Easier to replace it.

 

[JW]

Great. Thanks Matt. I just modified the original post and put PM2000 in the title since this thread is proving to be very helpful for PM2000 owners. . . .