you want big caps cheap, we got big caps cheap
- Thread starter emrr
- Start date
Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:
When I built my power amp (4x250W) back in the early '70s I used a bunch of that style (computer?) caps for my PS. I recall using copper clad for bus bars and literally bolted a bunch of them together.
In hindsight the copper clad was not very low Z, I did melt a bunch of solder on the copper. IIRC each cap was only 3750 uF but I stacked up several of them for each rail.
JR
In hindsight the copper clad was not very low Z, I did melt a bunch of solder on the copper. IIRC each cap was only 3750 uF but I stacked up several of them for each rail.
JR
Since when do they have HAMfests on Thursdays? I gotta quit my day job! 
Also seen:
I can’t decide about the useful/dumb ratio on the 12V car to binding post adapter. At least one online description says there’s a 10A fuse. So you shouldn’t be able to fuse a screwdriver to your wedding ring? I guess a vehicle would have another fuse of some size between battery and outlet.
This may be the most elegant wire wound rheostat I’ve ever seen.
I can’t decide about the useful/dumb ratio on the 12V car to binding post adapter. At least one online description says there’s a 10A fuse. So you shouldn’t be able to fuse a screwdriver to your wedding ring? I guess a vehicle would have another fuse of some size between battery and outlet.
This may be the most elegant wire wound rheostat I’ve ever seen.
> description says there’s a 10A fuse. ... I guess a vehicle would have another fuse of some size between battery and outlet.
Car cigar-lighter circuits, at least since the 1961 Willys, have fuses. Usually 10A.
Often dedicated. Rarely, the clock or radio-memory is on the same fuse. (Not the radio play-power, since that's pushing 10A.)
They "have to", since users now stuff all kinds of things (except cigar-lighters) in these holes, then pinch the flimsy cords.
The plug itself "usually" has a fuse. Unscrew the end. The fuse does the job of the first inch of conductor out of the tip contact. Of course the car can not rely on an appropriate fuse in the plug.
The binding posts may have uses. I got a large 12V:110V inverter. It has a cigar-plug, but a note says that to use the full output (300W?) I *must* convert to hard-wire. If I just wanted a quick-test (I found it in a damp yard-sale) and didn't have that cigar adapter, I would want the thing in your picture.
I don't think that binding-cigar thingie is near as dangerous as the heavy lugs and wires they sell in all car-sound shops. 5,000 Watts that don't sag when the bass booms. Of course that's not as easy as the cigar-plug.
Car cigar-lighter circuits, at least since the 1961 Willys, have fuses. Usually 10A.
Often dedicated. Rarely, the clock or radio-memory is on the same fuse. (Not the radio play-power, since that's pushing 10A.)
They "have to", since users now stuff all kinds of things (except cigar-lighters) in these holes, then pinch the flimsy cords.
The plug itself "usually" has a fuse. Unscrew the end. The fuse does the job of the first inch of conductor out of the tip contact. Of course the car can not rely on an appropriate fuse in the plug.
The binding posts may have uses. I got a large 12V:110V inverter. It has a cigar-plug, but a note says that to use the full output (300W?) I *must* convert to hard-wire. If I just wanted a quick-test (I found it in a damp yard-sale) and didn't have that cigar adapter, I would want the thing in your picture.
I don't think that binding-cigar thingie is near as dangerous as the heavy lugs and wires they sell in all car-sound shops. 5,000 Watts that don't sag when the bass booms. Of course that's not as easy as the cigar-plug.
buildafriend
Well-known member
emrr said:
I wouldn't mind having 2 or 3 of those laying around. How much was each cap?
