The direct (before cap) output of the preamp is "nearly zero DC". But it may be a few tenths Volt of DC, which should not be allowed to flow to the next input.
If all inputs were high impedance, and there were no buzz in the world, we could use a 0.5uFd film-cap to block this DC.
But 0.5uFd into 10K load is -3dB at 34Hz, -1dB for kick-drum, disappointing.
And we would like to have the line driven with low-low impedance at 50/60Hz, to absorb buzz that sneaks into cables.
And 0.5uFd film is not cheap. (Even at the lowest voltage they can make film.)
So we want 10, 20, even 100uFd caps, to block DC while still passing bass and absorbing buzz.
These "have" to be electrolytic (or VERY big).
We do know that the preamp tends to cancel DC voltage at its output. But the cancellation leaves the difference of small errors. So while the output DC is "small", it may be either polarity.
Ideally an electrolytic has a constant DC voltage and polarity to keep the oxide formed. However modern electrolytics stay formed with proper voltage, or no voltage, or up to 1V reverse voltage.
Therefore in _this_ case, the output caps may be installed EITHER way. Whatever looks better on the drawing or to the builder.
If the output DC was large and we knew what polarity (such as a single-ended amplifier; or the Phantom voltage at the input of this preamp), we could use a standard electrolytic carefully installed the right way around.
If we were not sure the output DC was "small", we would have to use Bipolar Electrolytic, which can block large DC either way. This is always "safe", but more cost and size.
If all inputs were high impedance, and there were no buzz in the world, we could use a 0.5uFd film-cap to block this DC.
But 0.5uFd into 10K load is -3dB at 34Hz, -1dB for kick-drum, disappointing.
And we would like to have the line driven with low-low impedance at 50/60Hz, to absorb buzz that sneaks into cables.
And 0.5uFd film is not cheap. (Even at the lowest voltage they can make film.)
So we want 10, 20, even 100uFd caps, to block DC while still passing bass and absorbing buzz.
These "have" to be electrolytic (or VERY big).
We do know that the preamp tends to cancel DC voltage at its output. But the cancellation leaves the difference of small errors. So while the output DC is "small", it may be either polarity.
Ideally an electrolytic has a constant DC voltage and polarity to keep the oxide formed. However modern electrolytics stay formed with proper voltage, or no voltage, or up to 1V reverse voltage.
Therefore in _this_ case, the output caps may be installed EITHER way. Whatever looks better on the drawing or to the builder.
If the output DC was large and we knew what polarity (such as a single-ended amplifier; or the Phantom voltage at the input of this preamp), we could use a standard electrolytic carefully installed the right way around.
If we were not sure the output DC was "small", we would have to use Bipolar Electrolytic, which can block large DC either way. This is always "safe", but more cost and size.