darkus
Well-known member
If you are using both turbo and super sidechain boards you have to add a second sc board for the turbo board as well.
So you need two ssc boards with the turbo mod.
So you need two ssc boards with the turbo mod.
Double check for same resistor (and cap, if difference would be frequency dependant) values at both sides of the audio path.ptron said:...but right channel is a few db lower than the left channel! (around 4 db ish) this happens with compression on or off..
i got ..
vca boards (serpent)x2
Doesn't mean much and shows a trimmer to be usefull. Depending on type of THAT2181 (A, B or C grade), the value of the resistor between +/-15V-SymAdj.trimmer and VCA-pin4 will be different to allow injecting a tiny offset correction voltage (+/-0.55mV for A grade VCA with 680K Rsym up to +/-2.88mV for C grade VCA with 130K Rsym) and making use of the complete trimmers range.tzman said:Quick question I haven't found the answer to:
If using 2181 VCA's, is it normal that after trimming for least THD, the trimmers positions end up at different places between the left and right channel? One is almost fully CCW and the other almost dead center...
Harpo said:Doesn't mean much and shows a trimmer to be usefull. Depending on type of THAT2181 (A, B or C grade), the value of the resistor between +/-15V-SymAdj.trimmer and VCA-pin4 will be different to allow injecting a tiny offset correction voltage (+/-0.55mV for A grade VCA with 680K Rsym up to +/-2.88mV for C grade VCA with 130K Rsym) and making use of the complete trimmers range.tzman said:Quick question I haven't found the answer to:
If using 2181 VCA's, is it normal that after trimming for least THD, the trimmers positions end up at different places between the left and right channel? One is almost fully CCW and the other almost dead center...
For min.THD adjustment you set the audio-VCAs Ec- port (more exactly the differential between Ec+ and Ec- ports) to 0V for the VCAs current-in=current-out bypass condition with a moderate (maybe 0dBV) 1kHz sine test tone running thru your unit. This 0V at the Ec- port is maybe easiest done by temporarily shorting out the 120R shunt arm resistors at the 1K/120R voltage dividers in front of the NE5534s in the DBX202C substitution circuit.
The trimmer is for min.THD adjustment and has nothing to do with level. The *1M parts value on GSSL is for a DBX202C. With 4 paralleled THAT2181B, this *1M would decrease to 56K as the next standard parts value to allow for a +/-1.7mV correction voltage (keeping the 1M instead would only allow for +/-0.094mV).ptron said:the right channel is 2.5 db louder than the left channel. and the vca trimmer (mounted on main gssl board) wont work on this vca.
A short at the last inverting stage wouldn't cause a 2.5dB but 6dB level difference (and distorted signal because opamps don't like to drive a zero ohm load).i couldnt find any shorts or anything aroudn I/O section or near vca`s...
around NE5532-pins1,2,3 from updated schematic, further going to XLR output-pin3.just to know if i am wrong, the last inverting stage would be around the 100uF and 100nF on output?
ptron said:hello !! eeeh so ... hehe i got a bit of a problem... all is fine but right channel is a few db lower than the left channel! (around 4 db ish) this happens with compression on or off.. turbo or single sidechain :/
thanks a lot!!
Be a lot more specific. Looking at only the mouser catalogue, they are selling 130364 different type of switches.weiss said:the bypass switch
So your switch is maybe a pushbutton switch, leaving only 19740 different type of switches from this catalogue ...I had to change on and off state of the bybass button because it is reversed.
Do you have a multimeter? Ohm out your switch in order to sort the conducting pins for the switch status 'pushbutton activated' and 'pushbutton released' (or look up this parts datasheet for a definitive answer and get maybe useful additional information). Have a look at the GSSL schematic in order to match these sorted out pins with the switch symbols from schematic.But when i switch cables of the button to change on/off connectors, it is in bybass mode all the time
Without knowing what you have done, no idea what you might have done wrong.what did i do wrong?
Voltage regulator(s) latching on start up. (must have been answered on about every single of the last 50 pages of this thread...)darkus said:The first powering on attempt always fails. I press the switch and nothing happens. I press it to "Off" and i see the power on LED to blink quick. When i press the switch immediately after that, i get the unit to power on.
nothing to do with it.I already replaced the 1000uF elcos in the PSU section
Frank does a lot of things, but to the best of my knowledge he never started a business in switch manufacturing.Im using the NRG pushbuttons from Frank Röllen.
NRG pushbuttons from FrankBe a lot more specific. Looking at only the mouser catalogue, they are selling 130364 different type of switches.
http://micandmod.com/en/parts/168-vintage-british-console-pushbutton-yellow.htmlSo your switch is maybe a pushbutton switch, leaving only 19740 different type of switches from this catalogue ...
For the standard GSSL bypass switching function you want a DPDT switch (double pole double throw position switch).
yes.Do you have a multimeter?
yes.Was your circuit ever operating correctly before (from your pics some posts ago, the HPF jumper was missing, but fixing this issue was already answered) ?
just inverted on and off buttons, as the compress button does bypass and not enable the compression.Without knowing what you have done, no idea what you might have done wrong.
i have not found any datasheet. ohm out is a good option. thanks for that.Ohm out your switch in order to sort the conducting pins for the switch status 'pushbutton activated' and 'pushbutton released' (or look up this parts datasheet for a definitive answer and get maybe useful additional information). Have a look at the GSSL schematic in order to match these sorted out pins with the switch symbols from schematic.
Might be NKK series UB http://www.nkkswitches.com/pdf/UBIlluminated.pdfweiss said:i have not found any datasheet. ohm out is a good option. thanks for that.
darkus said:I only have a small minor problem with my unit. The first powering on attempt always fails. I press the switch and nothing happens. I press it to "Off" and i see the power on LED to blink quick. When i press the switch immediately after that, i get the unit to power on.
Greg S. said:darkus said:I only have a small minor problem with my unit. The first powering on attempt always fails. I press the switch and nothing happens. I press it to "Off" and i see the power on LED to blink quick. When i press the switch immediately after that, i get the unit to power on.
Check the +-15V, I use 7815 and 7915 from ST Microelectronics, they work
Segor.de
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