Reddish 500 EQ

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Can I get a list of the UTM parts required so I can inquire about a quantity purchase from them for a potential group US purchase?

Thanks!
Sure!

Input Transformer - UTM2571
Inductors - UTM1543 & UTM1544

The output transformer is where we'll need to make a decision, particularly for US-based builders. I created the project to use the Cinemag CMOB-3S, and that's what I used in my build. It's high quality, inexpensive (when I built mine, they cost a bit less than the UTM), sounds great, and for those of us in the States, doesn't incur a ton of additional shipping costs nor customs/duty fees. On the other hand, Herbert contacted Igor at UTM and asked him to wind his UTM3523LP for 600:600 (the LP stands for "low profile" and is important, the regular 3523 is too large for the 500 series). The bobbin on the UTM is apparently larger than the Cinemag and Herbert had to file out the PCB a bit, so I have adjusted the cut-out for the bobbin on the board based on his estimates - UTM does not provide the dimension in question on their datasheet. It should be just fine to use either transformer now, although I want to make the disclaimer that if we go with UTM and my adjustments to the board were still not sufficient, we may need to do a little filing to the PCB (not the end of the world).

So with that, it's either 3 or 4 pieces from UTM, bearing in mind that if the output transformer comes from them, you'll need to email Igor about the custom winding.
 
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Thanks!
Are there any other parts that will have to be obtained from outside the US?
I will start a thread for a parts group buy to see if there is enough interest to make it happen, and hopefully get some quantity pricing.
I am looking forward to trying this EQ!
 
Hey @JMan have you compared the Redd to a 69 eq both being inductor based one has to be sweeter than the other. Maybe @HerbertR could chime in? I would be tempeted to get some boards but, I already have some Type 69 500's from IJR, and I bought some of Ian's Redd brilliance filter boards already to insert into redd47 preamps when I get to those. Unit looks impressive nice work on sharing a project with the community.
 
One thing to keep in mind is that edge connector fingers are typically hard gold, not enig which is too soft for repeated plugging and unplugging.

Hard gold can add significant cost, it's perhaps debatable whether the cost is worth it for a diy project. But just thought I'd mention it.
 
One thing to keep in mind is that edge connector fingers are typically hard gold, not enig which is too soft for repeated plugging and unplugging.

Hard gold can add significant cost, it's perhaps debatable whether the cost is worth it for a diy project. But just thought I'd mention it.
I should have been clearer in what I said earlier. I'll have the main board done in ENIG *with* gold fingers. The manufacturer can't do gold plating over HASL (I'm sure there is a technical reason that is over my head), which is why I made that distinction. But yes, thank you for pointing out that clarification -- the main PCB that connects to the backplane of the 500 chassis will have gold plating.
 
Hi Everyone,

I've been posting in the Black Market thread as orders have been coming in so that I am being sure not to break any forum rules. However, there are a few things that I want to put here as well for anyone who isn't watching that thread.

I'll be reaching out to all of you who have requested boards within the next day or two to start collecting shipping information and working out payments.

2 quick notes that I'd like to add in case folks are beginning to think about ordering metalwork and magnetics:

While the board has been modified to accommodate both the Cinemag and UTM output transformers, the L bracket from Frank needs a small modification to one hole if using the UTM. This will be detailed in the build documents, but I'm also working on finding a solution that nullifies any need to worry about this at all, so please stay tuned. For the moment, be aware that if you are ordering the stock L bracket that is currently in Frank's shop, it will only properly fit the Cinemag (though Herbert did find a clever solution for his units, so UTM is not impossible with this).

USA builders, member @nielsk is organizing a group buy for some of the bigger pieces required for the build, and this is a good chance to get those parts at a price break. The more folks we can get to join in, the better the price break, so I encourage you to take advantage of this. See his thread here.
 
This looks like an excellent project, looks really good JMan! Congratulations!
 
I will have the build docs, including a BOM, available in the near future. I want to give a once-over to everything one last time before I post them. Right now I'm fully focused on getting orders arranged, as well as some logistical items on the back end. (As you'll hear shortly, one of these logistical items will reduce shipping costs for international buyers significantly).

Hopefully we don't run into too many component shortages. The project uses readily available components for the most part, and I've tried to create flexible options in the design wherever possible (for example, all signal path capacitors have pads for 5mm or 10mm lead spacing, significantly opening up your options; and the gain switches are designed so that if the two-deck switches are out of stock - as they were when I first conceived of doing this - it is possible to use a three-deck instead without any modification).

Thank you all for your prompt replies to my messages over the last couple of days, and for your patience as this all comes together! It's the first project like this that I've offered to the community here, and it is humbling -- both in the level of enthusiasm it has garnered, as well as in the magnitude of the behind-the-scenes work. I am doing my very best to ensure that every aspect of this project is as good as it can possibly be by the time it arrives in your hands.
 
Hello everyone,

I have some updates to share with you!

Today (April 10) is the last day to get in an order for pcbs. I will take orders until midnight EDT (GMT-4), at which point I will finalize my list. If you would like to order pcbs and have not yet done so, please visit the Black Market Thread.

I have heard back from almost everyone confirming shipping information. I will be reaching out again re: payment shortly.

Big news for buyers outside the USA: @Kevin from Link Audio Design has kindly offered to handle distribution for all non-US builders, and thanks to his existing distribution infrastructure, he estimates that shipping to those folks should now cost €6-10 (a huge reduction compared to what it cost me to ship internationally). This will add a small additional amount of lead time to your orders, but hopefully the cost savings is worth it. Of course, if you still want to pay more and have me ship it directly from the US, that is possible, I guess. You'll receive more details from me when I message you regarding payment.

Metalwork option update: Kevin has also very kindly offered to do a run of metalwork, including the front panel and the L bracket. If you've seen a Link Audio front panel in real life, you know they are very nice looking. As I understand it, these will be painted and screen printed. Depending on how many people choose to go this route, this may offer us our most cost-effective option for quality metalwork for the project.
We are still working out a few details -- doing this will necessitate changing one piece of hardware that was originally meant to be purchased from Frank's web shop to a stock part that can be ordered from Mouser/Digikey/Farnell/etc, which also requires a small change to some hole spacing on the PCB. I will also be in contact with Frank make the appropriate adjustments to the file he is working from for those who order from him. (In the event that you have, in your excitement, already placed an order with Frank, PLEASE make sure to inform me via PM - we will need to make sure that you get one of the remaining prototype PCBs instead. This will not impact the functionality or quality of your build, but you will have to solder one added wire. Hopefully I can get updated files to Frank within the next few days, so if you plan to order from him, I suggest waiting until I can do so).

Thanks again to all of you! Your enthusiasm for this project has really lifted me up, and it means a lot.
 

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