ok any hints/warnings on coloring faceplates?

i need to color one Faceplate 1hu to military grey-blue (Neve)

and another 2 2hu Faceplates to white matte (wich seems a bit dificult)


i want to use a method that is cheaper than screenprint (wich is very expensive afaik)... basicaly its some printing-foil with everything on, thats gotta be pressed to the faceplate and after that i will use a protection film to save the color and print..


i just wanted to ask for any kind of tips about the coloring or anything in this matter




do i have to get the Alluminium-surface somewhat raw before is start coloring it?

starting with the final color or some grey/white first?

can i anyway color the 2 2hu plates white matte or wont that work?

Start with metal primer, grey or white, thin coat(s).

Colour info here.

Neve equipment has a satin finish. You can use a gloss lacquer and buff it down with a medium-coarse cutting paste if satin finish paint is not available, as long as your transfer will still adhere.

is the satin finish something you put on afterwards additionaly or the color itself?


any idea if the plan to do the other faceplate white matte will work out?

excpecialy because its an black one originaly.. can i color it white matte anyway or would i have to get a natural alluminium plate re-drill everything and start from there?

ion said:

is the satin finish something you put on afterwards additionaly or the color itself?

Click to expand...

They used to bake the finish on. I don't know if it would be satin finish before that process or what.

I would just try to find some spray paint in the colours you want and spray it on over the primer (which should also be sprayed on).

If your plate is already painted, you should rub it down to provide a key for the new paint, but be careful about mixing paint types. Some cellulose-based lacquers and acrylics won't bond very well to each other. Ask your paint specialist/seller.

really spray it?


hmmm

-will i get the BS 633 as spray can?

-what about the thin coats than wehn sprayed? should i just spray thin on it in many steps and always wait until its dry between?

Prep the metal with about 220 grit, then work your way down to 400 grit sandpaper. Glue a piece of each to a nice big pencil eraser to use as a sanding block.

Then dampen a clean rag with alcohol and wipe clean.

Give a light coat of primer. I like the spray RUST-OLEUM 209566.
I *really* like the RUST-OLEUM V2183 gray spray paint. (They of course have other colors.)

If you are going to laser engrave, BE SURE that your metal is nice and clean before you paint!

Your first coat of color should be very light, just a pass or two over the whole thing. If you want it to come out nice, start spraying and moving your arm way beyond the work piece, don't stop moving over the work piece! If there is a light spot, don't worry about it. Let it dry.

Do a second coat the same way. And I will do a third sometimes.

All my panels come out pro this way.

cool thanks!


should i worry bout those shitty "caps" that get sold with the cans on stock and get good ones from the Graffiti store?  ;D

i was told engraving doesnt really work well with self colored jobs!?

so i am planing to use this print-foil that goes directly on top of the color and some clear protection paint on top...

or is engraving no issue at all? (keyword: mixing colors when engrave with color)

one more question


-will i be better of getting silver faceplates instead of black ones? easy to color (escpecialy the white matte)???




-can i use Humbrol Acryl-Spray?


oops that were 2 questions

hmm i cant find ANY info if Humbrol BS 633 even exists as SPRAY can...

any idea on that or even a source?  :-\