Yamaha NS-10m Tweeter disassembly/repair?

Hey fellas and ladies...
New guy here, wanted to know if any of you had attempted disassembling the NS-10 tweeters. I looked at it while removed from the monitor cabinet but can't figure it out. I doubt seriously that it can be repaired, but I am curious to look inside. I can see four screws behind the grille, but I don't know if that is glued on or what... it certainly doesn't screw off. Thanks guys.

tronny

If the tweeter is blown, take it apart.  The grill is just glued on.  In a perfect world you could see that the lead wire from the terminal was broken at a burn spot as it goes in to the coil, but that is a 1 in 100 chance. 

There are no replacement diaphragms for NS-10 tweets.  My best advice is to always have a pair of components ready for replacement.  That way you replace both tweets and the speakers will break-in the same, and the next time you have one blown you have a good "broken-in" spare.  At that time you buy two more and repeat.  I do that with all drivers to keep a stereo image.

Do you have 1.5Amp fast blow fuses in-line with them?  You should.  They are much cheaper than tweeters!  I have seen them bi-fused but never tried that.  Just kept buying boxes of 500 fuses and the odd 2 or 3 pairs of drivers each year in daily commercial use.
Mike

3/4 amp fast on the tweeter & 1-1/2 fast on the woofer if you want to save the tweeter... I have seen many a tweeter blow with just one fuse on the whole speaker. It is easy to install inline fuse holders at the speaker terminals.

What would be a good fuse for the tweeter of the original NS-10, as it is even more sensitive? Thanks!

If you need tweeters and woofers for thr nx10's, These guys have a nice stock of them or so they did as  of a few weeks ago. I would imagine they still do and could sell you a pair and some spares.


http://www.boutiqueaudio.com/

Thanks.
Ya, I got them apart with some care and found one of them to be nicely roasted, and it even burned through the conical material. One of them may be repairable as it looks like it may be on the voice coil lead, so maybe I fix it to have as a spare. It's too bad they don't make new diaphragms, that big magnet seems like it must be costly... maybe someone from eBay will buy them.

I will get the fuses. Seems silly not to. I seriously doubt I will ever blow the woofer, so I will just go with the 3/4 amp for tweeter.

p.s. I attached a picture of the super roasted one just for fun!

don't assume yer woofer is safe.  unless you are the only one using it.

three woofers and two tweets in two weeks in studio B here.
we have a couple (ok, several) producers who come in and like to monitor LOUD.

i'm just glad they aren't blowing up drivers on the genelec 1032s or proac monitors.
oh, but there is the surround on one of the 15"s in the left main...

QUEEF BAG said:

don't assume yer woofer is safe.  unless you are the only one using it.

three woofers and two tweets in two weeks in studio B here.
we have a couple (ok, several) producers who come in and like to monitor LOUD.

i'm just glad they aren't blowing up drivers on the genelec 1032s or proac monitors.
oh, but there is the surround on one of the 15"s in the left main...

Click to expand...

Probably a good call. I mean, the fuses I bought for the tweets were like $4.

that attached photo is classic replace a tweeter or put in a tweeter recone kit.

ACG fuses mail order should be around the 50 cent range depending on quantity.  By the 100 they can get close to 40 cents.  I tried circuit breakers and resettable polyfuses on speakers in the past and they were never consistent enough over time.  I like the ease of the auto blade fuses but they are too expensive to justify.
Mike

Fry's only had 800 mA... Is that going to work for the tweeter?
Also, is that too small to just use as a main fuse for the whole speaker?

Yes good for tweet, no too small for both.  As I originally wrote, ACG 1.5 is the correct value walking between saving drivers and preventing fuse replacement every 10 min.
Mike

How do you get the grill off? I've got a problem with one of my speakers now, there's distortion in the high end on one (ruled out other causes down the line).

It starts neatly with the crossover frequency:

Does this look like a broken tweeter or could it just be a loose screw? Here's the other one for comparison:

Anyone get a hint how best to remove the grill? I guess the crossover (just an inductor and two poly caps in parallel for the tweeter) wouldn't distort like this...

distortion is a good indication of voice coil rub on your tweeter.

pucho812 said:

distortion is a good indication of voice coil rub on your tweeter.

Click to expand...

Thanks! I guess I have to look inside to see if it's just worn out turning it 180° might fix it) or actually broken.

So how to best open that grill without damaging anything?

living sounds said:

pucho812 said:

distortion is a good indication of voice coil rub on your tweeter.

Click to expand...

Thanks! I guess I have to look inside to see if it's just worn out turning it 180° might fix it) or actually broken.

So how to best open that grill without damaging anything?

Click to expand...

I ment to say in your tweeter. Or would oin your tweeter be correct? Anyway you get the idea. I only recently replaced the voice coil in a tweeter. It was on a set of studio mains and there was no soldering involved. I have never replaced the voice coil on an ns-10. YOu might just have to bite the bullet and buy a replacement tweeter.

The grille is glued with a thick tar-like goo. For a domed grille use a small screwdriver or paperclip hook to pull it away from the plastic. Work around the circumference gently at first. For the flat grille I use a thin rod across through the mesh and work it around pulling out. Lucky if you find a rip to patch.
Mike

sodderboy said:

The grille is glued with a thick tar-like goo. For a domed grille use a small screwdriver or paperclip hook to pull it away from the plastic. Work around the circumference gently at first. For the flat grille I use a thin rod across through the mesh and work it around pulling out. Lucky if you find a rip to patch.
Mike

Click to expand...

Thanks alot, Mike! Just took it apart, looks like some of the wool inside the the dome had slipped between the voice coil and the magnet. Still need to make measurements, but it sure sounds like the problem is solved now.  8)