Whose switch logic is in Top form this evening?

lassoharp said:

It is hard to imagine that 39M shunt across the kill winding would make it hard to start, but empirical evidence suggests that sometimes a new ignition switch is the right call.  8)

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Agreed.  I probably would have counted it open and good.  Interesting that it does cause issues.

Great price on the switch too.  Think I paid about 15$ for mine.  At least the aggravation is gone now.  Happy mowing!

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Odd, that the leaky impedance was not enough to make it run bad, just hard to start. 

I have a mental debate about buying the new switch from the local shop... After all the shipping and handling it is probably a wash. I probably was closer to $20 than $10 after handling et al....

JR

My new opinion is that you should stop fooling with spark-engines and get a REAL engine.

My 1967-1968 4500 has the 67 HP 3-cyl Diesel. No sparks.

Key switch only does ACC and CRANK.

Once started, you don't need any electricity at all. (Unless you want fuel-level, oil pressure loss, or lights.) Starting is fairly sure with a 90-pound battery and Ford's 390-size starter on a 201 cube engine.

The key-switch works as sorta as when new. (I know 1960s Ford parts.)

There's a Neutral start switch and it is built like a tank. A beast. (However the O-ring was perished and throwing tranny-oil all over the gear lid, which is also a foot-place.)

PRR said:

My new opinion is that you should stop fooling with spark-engines and get a REAL engine.

My 1967-1968 4500 has the 67 HP 3-cyl Diesel. No sparks.

Key switch only does ACC and CRANK.

Once started, you don't need any electricity at all. (Unless you want fuel-level, oil pressure loss, or lights.) Starting is fairly sure with a 90-pound battery and Ford's 390-size starter on a 201 cube engine.

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My mower doesn't require a battery at all...

The key-switch works as sorta as when new. (I know 1960s Ford parts.)

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The magneto is a pretty simple and robust ignition, but the fancy kill switch winding improvement is the source of my prolonged misery. Back in the day we would stop the mower motor by touching a metal shorting lead to the spark plug.

I have spent effort to keep all the safety interlocks working, but all of that wiring and switches are hanging off the magneto kill winding, so opportunities for leakage. 

There's a Neutral start switch and it is built like a tank. A beast. (However the O-ring was perished and throwing tranny-oil all over the gear lid, which is also a foot-place.)

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The ignition switch is very simple and in hindsight might benefit from being a sealed switch (it isn't). Where it is located is not exposed to as much dust and environmental contamination, but enough apparently. 

JR