Microphone Body, take II

So, a while back I kinda hacked together a microphone body, and it turned out looking ok, it took me a couple hours.

Building on that, I spent a little more time on this one, and thought I'd post the results. Personally, I'm much more happy with how this one turned out, and I'm gonna go back and rework the other body.

This one was built for someone else, but I did get to take pictures before I sent it off.

Oh, and the xlr connector is there as a placeholder (so I could drill the holes in the correct spot for a 7 pin connector to be fitted).

http://www.shinybox.com/product_info.php?products_id=41

Regards

ju

Wher'dya get the brass tube? ...the endcap?

Part numbers?

Nice work! :thumb:

Keef

www.mcmaster-carr.com

The brass tubing is part number 2113T69
The end cap is part number 2113T57


I originally did a dual layer grill, which I liked the look of. It looks really tight in the pic, but it's go more open air than most of the pricey mics I have(maybe it's because it's a pic of 4 layers, front and back)

Here's a pic:

http://www.shinybox.com/diy/jaybody/newmesh.jpg

This place has a virety of tube colors :
http://www.lawrencemetal.com/productlist.html?basemodel=920




patina

oooh... im going to have to get some blue :green:

That could be cool. Is this just a paint over, or is it something done with the metal?

Reason I ask is that there is significant filing/sanding done on my body, and if it's just paint, it would come off.

Regards

ju

theres no way thats patina, not those bright of colors. its gotta be paint or powdercoat.

What is the final longth of the mic when it is done?

Can you give us the number for the grill also.

Thanks Fum looks great. Cant wait to get mine going.

This particular grill is 9223T127, fairly wide opening at 10 squares per inch. I got this with the plan to put a closer spaced mesh behind it (as pictured above), but for this particular one, they didn't want the second layer behind it.

Regards

ju

That's 1/4" square rod stock. Cut to length, drilled, and tapped. So in this case, there are 5 holes drilled and tapped in each piece. The 3 board mount holes, and then in each end, so that a screw can come in from the bottom end cap, and one from the top, for the capsule mount disc.

Regards

ju

Nice!

Thanks Fum

[quote author="fum"]The end cap is part number 2113T57[/quote]

A word of warning: There's a dimensional drawing of this part at McMaster-Carr's website that states the diameter of the cap to be 2". THIS IS NOT TRUE!!! The actual diameter is 1.89" - almost 1/8" off from the stated diameter!

In other words, if you think you're going to fit this cap in a standard 2" copper or aluminum pipe body, you got another thing coming...

Peace,
Al.

Interesting. If you buy the 2" brass tube stock that's on the same page as the end cap, it fits perfectly! :grin:

Regards

ju

[quote author="fum"]If you buy the 2" brass tube stock that's on the same page as the end cap, it fits perfectly[/quote]

Yeah, that's because that particular tube's inner diameter is 1.9" - a perfect fit with the 1.89" diameter cap. But their brass tube is $40 for a 4' piece, whereas you can buy 10' of 2" copper pipe at your local hardware store for $25-$30...

Does anyone know of an end cap that will fit standard 2" pipe?

Peace,
Al.

I've never made an 8 foot mic body, do they sound better than the 4 foot? :wink: