[FarisElek]

HA! I found a Green LED in my parts drawer and it's the same size so I went for it to be over with this build. It's perfect! It ain't red but it works.
It ain't pretty on the inside near the LEDs, perfect everywhere else. Had a really hard time with some old lead cutters that I've permanently retired.

I am so unbelievably happy with this compressor now. I've already tracked drums with it on the kick. Absolutely crazy.

[Fuzz Face]

Man you were supposed to clip the LED leads before you solder to the board! 

[FarisElek]

Man you were supposed to clip the LED leads before you solder to the board! 

I know. I was building it away from my tools and I didn’t have tweezers to hold the LED’s to the board to to the pcb while soldering, so I kept one lead long enough that I could hold it bent up while soldering one side. It went wrong once but I thought I could get away with it again and it happened again 😓. I should have just been patient and waited til I had access to my tweezers.

[zarndyhoff]

Hi!

Just built my two Rev Ds. (actually these are the third and fourth I've built over the years).

First unit worked perfectly, calibrated perfectly, straight away.

Second unit, everything fine during calibration until the bit where you repeat the four steps. When GR Off is engaged, nothing changes - the AC output doesn't change regardless of where the switch is positioned..

Any ideas? I've been through and re-flowed all the solder joins on the meter board, but I haven't gone over the resistors yet... dreading that part. It's pretty tidy. I'll add a photo. Can you see any issues?
Thanks!

[Hairball Audio]

Hi!

Just built my two Rev Ds. (actually these are the third and fourth I've built over the years).

First unit worked perfectly, calibrated perfectly, straight away.

Second unit, everything fine during calibration until the bit where you repeat the four steps. When GR Off is engaged, nothing changes - the AC output doesn't change regardless of where the switch is positioned..

Any ideas? I've been through and re-flowed all the solder joins on the meter board, but I haven't gone over the resistors yet... dreading that part. It's pretty tidy. I'll add a photo. Can you see any issues?
Thanks!

https://help.hairballaudio.com/hc/en-us/articles/360048613813-Common-Build-Errors-and-Troubleshooting-Techniques

and

https://help.hairballaudio.com/hc/en-us/articles/360048218173-FET-500-Troubleshooting-Guide

[novisplit]

Having the same VR2 issue as a lot of folks. Any official fix for that? double checked all my values. rebiased 6 times now.

Meter also seems to be way hotter than VU meter in protools. Other than that it's working great.

Please help!!!

[FarisElek]

Does using a linear psu for the 500 series such as the CAPI floor box psu bring the 500 series unit closer to the fet rack in character?

[noiro]

Does using a linear psu for the 500 series such as the CAPI floor box psu bring the 500 series unit closer to the fet rack in character?

I'm buidling them both rack and 500 series, basically i don't see much of a difference but what I notice is that each of them are unique, even two rack with active link aren't exactly doing the same work, it's the beauty of the analog world, like us they are all unique in my view.

[noiro]

On a side note:
After calibrating "Unit#1" I put everything together. I noticed that a leg of R72 might be touching a #4 nut and/or 1/4" standoff. When I checked it with a DMM, it was so. Solved it by adding a bit of tape to the 1/4" standoff and #4 nut.

Hi man, I'm not sure if this is a good idea, it maybe suppose to touch, but it is very odd that it does that to my two last build as well REV F, not certain if i saw that before, R72 is shorting with the whole frame as well. it goes to ground, but in the schematic it does not?  any idea Mike?