[rbuskov]

I have been looking at the way SSL design their 500 series modules and they use these angled extenders for alps switches which I find very clever (see attached image).

I have never seen these before and I haven't been able to find them anywhere online, so I'm thinking about having some 3D printed.

But before I do, I just wanted to ask if anyone knows where something like this can be bought ready made, or perhaps have a simpler solution that I haven't thought of?

[warpie]

I'm also interested. When I was searching in the past I realised that there's nothing available.

[gyraf]

Yup, those are custom parts, never seen such mechanical stuff in the wild. Perhaps you can buy a handful as spare parts?

/Jakob E.

[abbey road d enfer]

I have been looking at the way SSL design their 500 series modules and they use these angled extenders for alps switches which I find very clever (see attached image).

I have never seen these before and I haven't been able to find them anywhere online, so I'm thinking about having some 3D printed.

But before I do, I just wanted to ask if anyone knows where something like this can be bought ready made, or perhaps have a simpler solution that I haven't thought of?

There was a time you could have them made in rather small quantities with a sensible set-up price, but now you have to pay a lot and order thousands.
Neutrik is one major supplier of such custom jobs.
Fortunately, 3D printing exists now and is affordable.

[cyrano]

FWIW, Soundcraft uses these too. In the K1, some Spirits and I think the Sapphyre too.

Since they used to have a helpful service dept, it could be worth your wile to send them a mail?

[rbuskov]

Thanks for the tips on buying them as spare parts. I think I'll try to go the 3D printing route though... should be interesting :-)

I'll post STEP/STL files if I come up with something that actually works.

[Rochey]

this is a perfect application for 3d printing and rapid prototyping to re-iterate the design until it fits.
Good luck! I'm eager to see more on this forum connected to 3d printing!

[JohnRoberts]

this is a perfect application for 3d printing and rapid prototyping to re-iterate the design until it fits.
Good luck! I'm eager to see more on this forum connected to 3d printing!

+1

JR

[john12ax7]

If someone  finds a source for these I would be interested as well.

[rbuskov]

I designed an extender in Fusion 360 (see attached image). I tried to print a test specimen on a desktop Ender 5 3D printer, but this printer was not nearly accurate enough to produce a meaningful result.

So, I ordered a few samples from a 3D printing service in the UK that promises 0.15mm tolerances. They should be here in 7-10 days.

[gyraf]

rbuskov - pleeeaaasee report back on this..!

/Jakob E.

[Rochey]

I designed an extender in Fusion 360 (see attached image). I tried to print a test specimen on a desktop Ender 5 3D printer, but this printer was not nearly accurate enough to produce a meaningful result.

So, I ordered a few samples from a 3D printing service in the UK that promises 0.15mm tolerances. They should be here in 7-10 days.

I would use these to make a silicone mold that you could then use multiple times.
For smaller parts, it's almost impossible to beat a resin 3d printer to make master devices.
I use a CR10 (big brother to the ender) to make assembly jigs:
https://youtu.be/l6mTQQfBxbA?t=80

[totoxraymond]

Hi!

That's an interesting topic!

I do have a 3d printer capable of .15mm accuracy, could you share the stl file by any chance?

I wonder if we could print one with transparent PET to make an illuminated switch...

Cheers,

Thomas

[rbuskov]

That actually worked just as well as I had hoped! 

I printed 4 versions of the design with slightly different dimensions and tested them with an original alps SPUJ switch and knob, as well as a set taiwanese knock offs. Based on that I made a V2 of the design that I hope will fit both the switches and the knobs perfectly.

I'm using a slight taper on the extrusions for the switch and knob to achieve a tight fit, and it seems to work pretty well. It shouldn't be necessary to use any glue whatsoever to keep them in place.

I used www.3dhubs.com and chose "Formlabs Tough Resin 2000" as the material. Not exactly cheep, but at this point I'm happy if I can just make it work.

/Rasmus

UPDATE: I tried uploading the design as a .step CAD file but unfortunately attachments with this file extension is not allowed. I have sent a message the Ethan asking if that is something he can change, so we can share 3D designs here on GroupDIY.

[Rochey]

UPDATE: I tried uploading the design as a .step CAD file but unfortunately attachments with this file extension is not allowed. I have sent a message the Ethan asking if that is something he can change, so we can share 3D designs here on GroupDIY.

Worst case, create a thingiverse account and upload it there. That's what I do with most of my designs.
Also, given the equipment cost vs the return, I'd argue that the value of a 3d printer to a maker/builder is really high. (i.e. not high costs, but massive capability improvement).

We're talking mechanical switch extenders, display bezels, back panel adapters, assembly jigs - it's truly amazing once you get going. The only issue is that you start seeing all the things you *could* fix.

For refence, I'm on my 5th 3d printer by now. (yes, I have a problem). I'm rocking both an FDM (CR10 mini) and a Resin (Anycubic Photon). Both have their strengths and weaknesses, but I consider both to be workhorses. I just wish I could 3d print circuit boards (that's coming... i just haven't got round to it yet!)

Creality's ender 3 is as low as $157 (DANG!) but requires some assembly. Assembly, in my mind, is an opportunity to error to creep in. That's why I got a CR10 type. I was up and printing in about 15 minutes with it, and I've barely had to calibrate it.

[abbey road d enfer]

I tried to print a test specimen on a desktop Ender 5 3D printer, but this printer was not nearly accurate enough to produce a meaningful result.

What was the issue? What type of filament?

[zamproject]

Hello

I tried uploading the design as a .step CAD file but unfortunately attachments with this file extension is not allowed.

You can just change the extension to .pdf or .jpg, just tell in the post that after download the extension have to be changed.
Not a good practice regarding data storage capacities (if there is limitation for upload there is some reason I guess...)
But it can help sometimes 

Best
Zam

[rbuskov]

What was the issue? What type of filament?

The accuracy was not nearly high enough to achieve a good fit with the switch and knob. I was using the filament that came with printer, which is probably not that good and it may also have absorbed quite a bit of moisture.

I'm new to 3D printing and there are probably a lot of things I could do to improve the quality. Still, I doubt I will ever come close to 0.15 mm tolerance on my Ender 5 Pro :-)

[rbuskov]

Here's the STEP file of the latest version of the extender (thanks Ethan).

Feel free to use it as you please, but keep in mind this is a work in progress - I'm still waiting for samples from the provider. Also, this is for Alps SPUJ switches, not the SPUN ones which are probably more common.

/Rasmus

[Rochey]

Regarding your experience with the ender printer.

Designing for consumer grade 3d printers requires a slightly different tact. you have to expect the poor tolerance!

There's a little infographic here: https://blog.adafruit.com/2020/01/24/a-poster-of-cad-design-tips-for-3dprinting-cad-billierubenmake/

HAve a look at the one about compliance. It may inspire you to modify the step file to allow for some flex. (and essentially make the FDM printed part clamp around the switch actuator etc)

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